Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
CAS TOPICS => The Powder Room - CAS reloading => Topic started by: yahoody on April 09, 2015, 12:58:28 AM
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I've shot 45-70 in a 45-90 and 38 Special in a .357, .40 in a 10mm and 9mm in a 9x23. Never had a issue to date.
But until recently I had not shot a LOT of 38 Special lead reloads in a .357 SAA. Several thousand rounds later and there is so much lead build up in the cylinder's chambers I am having trouble getting a .357 case to chamber now. What is your answer to cleaning the lead from the chambers? Thanks for the help.
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I doubt that it is lead buildup, most likely just carbon and common fouling. There are several ways to remove it. One way is to slightly bell the mouth of a 357 case and push it into the chamber as a cutter to remove the fouling. Another is to chuck a oversize bore brush in an electric drill and scrub the chamber with it. I use the bore brush method on my Rugers about once a year, no problems.
Blackfoot
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I've shot 45-70 in a 45-90 and 38 Special in a .357, .40 in a 10mm and 9mm in a 9x23. Never had a issue to date.
But until recently I had not shot a LOT of 38 Special lead reloads in a .357 SAA. Several thousand rounds later and there is so much lead build up in the cylinder's chambers I am having trouble getting a .357 case to chamber now. What is your answer to cleaning the lead from the chambers? Thanks for the help.
If you're sure it's lead buildup, then try shooting softer lead. Unfortunately, if you're buying commercial cast, that probably isn't an option. 38spl pressures are pretty mild and most commercial cast is too hard to obturate and gas cuts, leaving the melted lead soldered in the gun.
Buy your brushes in bulk.
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I chuck a brand new bronze bore brush up in the drill press, dip it in ballistol, and run the cylinder bores up and down on it about a dozen times. Repeat as necessary. It is the only practical method for getting the lead out.
I've found, if you do this every time you clean the gun, build-up is eliminated.
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Lewis lead remover tool
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I've shot ..............40 in a 10mm
and 9mm in a 9x23.
Never had a issue to date.
Never considered doing that. Never had an issue? What pistols?
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I would try a hurricane brush. If that didn't clean up the chambers, Lewis Lead Remover like rrick said.
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Be aware, it is likely at least as much carbon build-up as lead.
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357 case with the mouth belled just enough.
Won't get it all, but gets it started.
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A method I use when that happens............shoot a couple matches with black powder loads.
it basically blows all the carbon and leading out the barrel. CLean up with soap and water, or your favorite black powder cleaner. Dry and light coat of oil.
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I doubt that it is lead buildup, most likely just carbon and common fouling. There are several ways to remove it. One way is to slightly bell the mouth of a 357 case and push it into the chamber as a cutter to remove the fouling. Another is to chuck a oversize bore brush in an electric drill and scrub the chamber with it. I use the bore brush method on my Rugers about once a year, no problems.
Blackfoot
Hi
I'm NEVER tried this, but I've heard horror stories about someone doing this to the bore and making a new smooth bore pistol. It shouldn't hurt as much on a chamber, but I'd try the chemical methods first.
Just my $0.02 and worth about half that..
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"CLEANING" after shooting is the key.
My best,
Blair
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Any one consider Hoppe's #9, a brass bristle brush and a wad of elbow grease?
Sometimes the "Old School" way is the best way.
Bunk
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Hi
I'm NEVER tried this, but I've heard horror stories about someone doing this to the bore and making a new smooth bore pistol. It shouldn't hurt as much on a chamber, but I'd try the chemical methods first.
Just my $0.02 and worth about half that..
I seriously doubt that a bore brush would wear the barrel into a smooth bore. Sounds like someone has a great imagination to come up with that.
Blackfoot
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the chambers get a scrubbing with an oversize bore brush and "ogre" enviroclean. Good stuff, that. Finish up with a deleading cloth patch on a jag, watch the cylinder face if you are anal retentive about bluing, the cloth will eat it.
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If the Lewis Lead Remover can't handle it, I'd go for the Clymer Reamer.
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Not quite sure why you would shoot that many rounds without cleaning the cylinders but the expanded 357 case followed by a good scrubbing
with a bore brush and some Hopps #9 should do it. I reload and shoot 38 special almost exclusively through my 357 new Vaqueros and have absolutely no buildup in the cylinders. But then again, I disassemble and clean the guns after every match. Just anal I guess.
Good luck in getting the cylinders clean! Happy Shooting, W. L.
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I seriously doubt that a bore brush would wear the barrel into a smooth bore. Sounds like someone has a great imagination to come up with that.
Blackfoot
Steel brush, high speed drill, more than once, no brain.
Later
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Gee...it has already been stated LEWIS LEAD REMOVER. This great tool uses brass screen and there are two heads, one for a forcing cone and the other for the bore. You tighten up the works which expands the diameter so it will work in the chambers. If you have never owned and used this tool it will knock your socks off the first time you use it. Huge gobs of lead where you're been bronze brushing. The Lewis tool has no equal. Give it a go. The brass screen will not harm a steel bore.
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Wrap pieces of a COPPER (non-magnetic) Chore-Boy/pot scrubber around a 38caliber bronze brush.
Dip into bore solvent and run it through the cylinders.
Gone....
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And, for whatever it is worth, I've thought about this one because I too have shot a lot of .38 specials in a .357 chamber. I think you might possibly get a small amount of wear in the space differential. Ideally it would probably be better to get 357 cases and load them down to 38 special levels for target practice. You'd have to make sure of your load, just going to the same OAL on a 38 spl. may not do because the longer 357 case is decreasing the area occupied by the powder. But, as I said, I've shot thousands of 38 in 357 without any noticeable issues.
And, that brass screen really works well, as stated dip in solvent before using.