Who has a Percussion Pistol Kit that is "Okayed" by the Plainsmen Society?

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Hi,

I am just too cheap to buy a new percussion single shot when 90% of the time it will be worn for reenactment purposes, unloaded and around my not-too-dainty girth ...

So which pistol is sold in kit form (read cheap), and where is the best place to buy it ... for instance, I am told that I should just forget Traditions and Lyman if I wanted an acceptable black powder pistol ...

And how hard is it to assemble? By the time I blue or brown the metal and stain the wood, will it cost me the same as buying a new one?

TTFN,

[Cherokee Reb]

The Lyman is a fair representation and is not on the Disapproved List, so I'd think that would be the one. TOTW sometimes has some custom made ones that are usually a bit pricey and there are some custom ones on the CLA site, but again pricey.

The Lyman kits are pretty straight forward with little woodwork or metalwork needed.

CR

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Thanks Cherokee Reb,

I only need one when working one place .... and I didn't want to commit myself to something expensive for a once in a while pistol ... ... so I will check out the Lymans ...

[Advertising]

[JimBob]

Don't know if this would suit your purposes but it's cheap-

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/pp-classifieds/showproduct.php/product/8216/cat/9

There are some others listed and they pop up all the time on that forum.

[Tascosa Joe]

Skip:
The link Jim Bob posted is for the CVA Kentucky pistol is close enough for TAPS.  A steel frame 51 Navy or a 58 Remington are also OK and if I remember from earlier posts you may have both.
Joe

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Tascosa Joe,

This is exactly what I was looking for!

Every once in a while, I am asked to help out at Sutter's Fort .... and the only revolver extant at the time period that the Fort works (1800-1840) on would be a pepperbox.

A cap 'n' ball single-shot pistol stuck into my pants and cheaply procured is exactly what I am looking for .... Thanks!

TTFN,

[ChuckBurrows]

Every once in a while, I am asked to help out at Sutter's Fort .... and the only revolver extant at the time period that the Fort works (1800-1840) on would be a pepperbox.

Actually the Colt Paterson was available and can be documented for use in the Far West - downside not cheap and generally hard to find at any price...

[Caleb Hobbs]

I am told that I should just forget Traditions and Lyman if I wanted an acceptable black powder pistol ...

It's not so much the brand as they style. You should be okay with the Lyman Great Plains Pistol or the Traditions Kentucky. Shy clear of the Traditions Trapper model or other unusual silhouettes. I have never been a fan of anything made by CVA -- cheap parts that are prone to breakage and poor service have been my experience, and on more than one firearm -- but I'm sure there are others who swear by them.

I have a Traditions that I'm having defarbed now, which means having the Italian markings like BLACK POWDER ONLY removed from the barrel. When I get it back, I'll strip the bluing from the rest of the piece and brown the metal. I'm doing the same with a Lyman Great Plains Rifle. Defarbing isn't expensive ($15 for the Traditions), and browning the barrel and restaining the wood can go a very long ways toward making a firearm look more historically correct. Type in: Who defarbs? for an Internet search. Doing your own browning isn't hard at all, and will help keep the price down.

Caleb

[ChuckBurrows]

When I get it back, I'll strip the bluing from the rest of the piece and brown the metal.

Why not blue? rust bluing was as common if not more so than browning in period. for instance most think Hawkens were originally browned - the barrels were in fact rust blued, not browned, and the iron fittings such as lock plates, butt plates, trigger guards were case hardened although generally not color cased.

BTW - rust bluing is simple - brown first then boil in good water.......even better get Pilkington's

[Caleb Hobbs]

Here is a link to the two processes, rusting browning and rust bluing. Rust bluing is NOT the same as cold bluing, in case your local gun shop tries to tell you differently. Keep in mind that the information in the following link is one person's knowledgeable opinion, using a product they sell. There are many other products and opinions out there. I'm adding this link only to give folks an idea of what is involved.

http://laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm

[ChuckBurrows]

Never said rust bluing was the same as cold bluing nor hot bluing for that matter which is most likely what was used on your pistol unless of course it was a home built. On the other hand all three can look real close dependent mostly on the prep of the metal and the quality of the application.
The only point I was making is that blued iron/steel was as common if not more so than browning especially on better quality guns. Too often folks look at the old guns and see them brown, but that can be due to age not the original application as is seen on Hawkens for instance - BTW my info on the metal finish of Hawkens comes from two of the most knowledgeable makers/collectors of Hawkens, Don Stith and Jerry Gnemi, both who have either owned or examined the originals in depth than any one alive today.

FWIW - I use rust bluing (Laurel Mtn is good but IMO Pillkington's is even better) a lot and have used a lot of cold blue when applicable (especially for aging as do many others) over the last 50 years of metal working on guns, knives, etc. as well so my statements are based on my experiences as well as my mentors so it's not just opinion (nor was the link you listed)

[Caleb Hobbs]

Nobody said you were recommending anything, Chuck. I provided one of probably hundreds of links to give a gentleman an idea of what was available, and what was involved in the two processes. I included the suggestion that he not allow a gun shop employee, who may never have owned a muzzle loader in his life, to sell him a bottle of cold blue.

[ChuckBurrows]

Agreed on that - unfortunately in the last 50 years I've met only a handful of regular/non historical arms gun shop employees who knew anything beyond what the sales reps told them - more often heard some real horrific "advice"!

[Major 2]

Skip

Did you decide the CVA for $100 was your huckelberry ?

I know of a Towere Pistol it's not kit , nor does it spark were well  

You know John Holmes they guy you got you CS kepi etc from

He has one for $75, as I said it does not spark well, but as belt gun for your Volunteer work, it would be fine.

[Caleb Hobbs]

The only problem with the Tower is it's a flintlock, which we want to stay away from in the Plainsmen Society -- unless it fits a specific persona.

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Caleb,

If the price is good enough, it might be worth having a gunsmith change the lock to a percussion one ...   (I would think) it just depends  on availability  and what must be done to fit a percussion lock to the piece  ...

TTFN

[Caleb Hobbs]

Don't forget JimBob's link, near the top of this thread. Right silhouette and already a percussion.

[Major 2]

I'd agree with Caleb,  then
I did not know "Flints were frowned on   

That is what my Rifle is ....

[WaddWatsonEllis]

Roger/Major 2,

I sent you a PM about this already ... but I believe that, with the large amount of Tower pistols that were available, some one, either the manufacturer or armory or just some gunsmith that saw a good deal, would make a percussion lock that was pretty much a bolt-in update ... much in the manner of the percussion guns that were adapted by local gunsmiths to fire cartridge weapons ... the Richards-Mason being an example ..

So I just have to find out who made the pistol and whether a percussion lock is still available ... just *S*

[Major 2]

http://rockislandauction.com/viewitem/aid/52/lid/3157

Here is one and they had a second Tower Sea Service ( also sold ) listed

http://rockislandauction.com/viewitem/aid/53/lid/159