I've been up there a couple of times, once in the late-80s and the second time, ironically, just a few weeks ago. They've made a lot of improvements over the years, but not as many as I would have expected. No livestock on hand and only one person in a trader's outfit, although in fairness this was just a few days after their annual rendezvous, so maybe they were taking a breather. I did pick up "On the Upper Missouri: The Journal of Rudolph Friederich Kurz, 1851-1852", but haven't read it yet. Bent's Old Fort in Colorado is still my favorite.