With all the time at home I have had of late, you would think I have made more progress than I have on the Spencer, but work, taking care of a 5 year old, and other projects have slowed things down some. The forearm wood and associated hardware are looking good. The original short wood forearms were held on with screws but the later forearm irons don’t have a provision for them. As a result, I made a steel sleeve that is glued inside the forearm that two screws are threaded into. This made for a stronger forearm (they are quite thin under the barrel), gave it the right look, and made it work with my front end iron. I made custom screws out of cap screws to get the right size head and finished the wood with true oil (figure 1). It looks a bit shiny to me and I am going to tone it down when I figure out what I am going to do for a stock.
The other job was to cut the mouth of the chamber to allow shells to feed, set the headspace, and cut the extractor slot. The original barrel had a 55 degree taper in the mouth of the chamber. This matches the 55 degree angle on the front of the shotgun shell rim and provides a “funnel” to feed the shell into the barrel. Cutting this cone was complicated by the fact that the barrel is tapered. I machined a man aluminum ring that fit tightly around the barrel threads and drilled and tapped it for a set screw that bore on the flat cut for the barrel wedge. I put the ring in a 4-jaw chuck and indexed it so the chamber was centered (the tip of the barrel was held in a “spider” at the other end of the headstock to get a proper alignment) then cut the taper. The depth of the taper set the headspace. Determine the proper headspace was a bit of a pain. Most folks just use a go-no go gauge to check headspace, but they don’t know how much headspace is actually ok. It turns out that the SAAMI specks for a 12 ga chamber show the max an min depth for the rim cut and there is a 14 thousandths difference between the two. From this, I calculated that the I needed to have less than 14 thousandths clearance between the back of the shell and the bolt face. A check of my other Bannerman gun showed that I could get a 14 thousandths feeler gauge between the bolt face and the head of a chambered shell. You don’t want to make this too tight so the gun will feed shells with different rim thicknesses. With a little care and calculation, the new barrel was cut and measures 10 thousandths headspace when installed. I wouldn’t have minded it a little tighter, but it’s in the acceptable range. Once the barrel was installed, I filed the extractor slot with some Swiss files. Now it all looks good and should work (figures 2 and 3).
During the process, I also made a new pivot pin for the block. The old one was made about 5 thousandths smaller than it should have been and did not fit the frame as well as it should have. I made it out of 4140 and will harden and temper it so it will be plenty
Strong and tough.
The next stop is to get into the guts and get it running properly. The hammer is a bit buggered and may need some work. Not sure yet. Always more to do.