New To Reloading

[Deadeye Don]

Invest in a good quality powder scale.  That is essential to keeping you safe and your loads consistent.  I would also buy some calibration weights to make sure the scale remains accurate.

[Cliff Fendley]

Unless the quality has changed the RCBS balance beam scales are a very good quality scale, very accurate and dependable. Unless you bend them or break them they arent going to get out of calibration.

[half-hitch]

Thanks, Wildman and Good Troy.  I did find that information later last night.  Lead only.   

Deadeye and Cliff...  the scale that came with the kit is a good scale and will work fine but, being mechanical, it'll be slower going than a digital scale.  Again, I appreciate everyone's input. 

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[Good Troy]

The link I posted previously (curtrich.com) has a wealth of information that will answer a lot of questions about getting started. 

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Thanks, Wildman and Good Troy.  I did find that information later last night.  Lead only.   

Deadeye and Cliff...  the scale that came with the kit is a good scale and will work fine but, being mechanical, it'll be slower going than a digital scale.  Again, I appreciate everyone's input. 

I have had a beam scale from the beginning, and after 35 years it is still GTG. I rely on it for accuracy and security of mind, but the AWS comes in handy for repetitive tasks that pop up from time to time.

I have noticed, after looking at SOME brand name items compared to the amazon or Harbor freight version, that they resemble each other?? Just sayin'. I would buy $15 digital calipers before I'd pay $55.

[half-hitch]

Having worked as a machinist for almost 30 years, I know there's a lot of difference in a cheap set of calipers and a good set like Starrett, Brown & Sharpe or Mitutoyo.  If you have a light touch, the cheaper ones are ok but can be very springy and you can get just about any reading you want depending on how much pressure you use.  The better known name brands are a lot sturdier and wear longer.  I don't know how accurate they have to be for reloading (haven't got to that part of the book yet) but I'm sure they're good enough for +/- .001.

I haven't checked out the link yet, Good Troy but I'm going to do it right now.  Muchas gracias, vaqueros.   

 

[mehavey]

Along with the RCBS Master Kit & the dies that go with each of the two calibers (45 Colt/44-40?), you will need to get the correct shellholders that go with each cartridge and which fit the Press ram & hand primer.

For the 44-40:  RCBS Shellholder #35 or the Lyman 14B
For the 45 Colt: RCBS #20 or the Lyman #11
I echo the recommendation for the RCBS Cowboy dies.  The expander and the crimp* design are optimized for lead bullets.





* You can set up the seating die to both seat and crimp simultaneously -- and reliably -- even for the 44-40.  The bullet must have a deep crimp groove -- which most classical bullet designs (luckily) have. 

It involves running an empty case up into the press and screwing the seating die down until it contacts the case mouth.  Then you lower the ram, screw the die down another 3/4 turn (establishing the crimp setting) and then lock the die locking ring at that point.

When you seat the first bullet off any different type, put a nickel under the locking ring as you screw the seating die into the press.  That keeps the die from crimping anything in the next step.

Then by screwing down the die's separate seating plug, seat the bullet to the depth juuuuust barely shy of the top of the crimp groove.  UNscrew the seating plug a dozen turns at this point.

Taken the nickel spacer out from under the lock ring and screw the die in all the way to crimping position.  Run the cartridge up in the die -- and crimp it.

While the cartridge is now fully in the die--and crimped--screw the seating plug down to meet the bullet, and lock it.

All the next bullets can be seated/crimped in one step.  (Print these instructions out.  You'll need them later) 

BIG QUESTION:  What weapons are you shooting these cartridges in -- pistol, rifle, or both -- and what model rifles ?  It makes a difference

 

[half-hitch]

Thanks for the info, Mehavey.  Right now I have a pair of El Patrons, a steel & brass cattleman and an 1875 Army Outlaw, all in .45 Colt.  I plan on getting an 1873 rifle soon, probably in .44-40 but am considering other calibers.

The dies that they recommended at Bass Pro are the Hornady .45 Colt, series II, titanium nitride 3 die set.  The salesman has been reloading .45 Colt for 30 years and says that's what he uses and wasn't aware of any difference in this set or cowboy dies.

I've saved your directions to a folder.  I'm not to that point yet.  Still have to order powder, cases, bullets and primers.  I'll be doing that in the next week.

[Octagonal Barrel]

I just got a good beam scale myself.  Although I can borrow someone else's set up now, I want my own.  I got an RCBS 505 for about $40 shipped from Glen's Army/Navy on the internet.  Really good price for that scale, if anyone's looking for one...

[mehavey]

If you haven't already bought the dies -- and are going to be shooting mostly lead -- I recommend the "Cowboy" version(s) as they resize slight less*, expand slightly more*, and produce a pronounced roll crimp req'd for solid crimp groove-grabbing.

* Lead bullets tend/need to be larger than most all jacketed. 
This means you want the case to accommodate them rather
than squeezing them down more as you seat them.

[rickk]

Beam scales ARE slow, but you don't use a beam scale to dispense powder. You use it to accurately set up your volumetric powder measure and then dispense powder with the powder measure.

Beam scales are MUCH more reliable that electronic scales, and typically give better resolution for a given price as well.

[half-hitch]

I just got a good beam scale myself.  Although I can borrow someone else's set up now, I want my own.  I got an RCBS 505 for about $40 shipped from Glen's Army/Navy on the internet.  Really good price for that scale, if anyone's looking for one...

My kit has the M500 in it.  Not sure what the difference is.

[half-hitch]

If you haven't already bought the dies -- and are going to be shooting mostly lead -- I recommend the "Cowboy" version(s) as they resize slight less*, expand slightly more*, and produce a pronounced roll crimp req'd for solid crimp groove-grabbing.

* Lead bullets tend/need to be larger than most all jacketed. 
This means you want the case to accommodate them rather
than squeezing them down more as you seat them.

I'll probably be reloading both, mehavey.  If I have to, I'll just get the cowboy dies too.

[half-hitch]

Beam scales ARE slow, but you don't use a beam scale to dispense powder. You use it to accurately set up your volumetric powder measure and then dispense powder with the powder measure.

Beam scales are MUCH more reliable that electronic scales, and typically give better resolution for a given price as well.

How many loads an hour should I be able to load once I get up to speed? 

[1961MJS]

How many loads an hour should I be able to load once I get up to speed? 

Hi

That will vary quite a bit.  Check your powder weight whenever you start back up and just before you quit, even to take a nature break.  I also check powder weight every 10-20 rounds anyway.  I have a setup that has stayed set up for about 10 years, so I can load 5 rounds or 150 rounds at a time.  When I start reloading for the day, I re-zero my scale (put the scale at 0 grains with nothing in the container), then I load a round with powder, pour it into the scale and check that.  Yes, I'm a bit retentive, but I don't want to blow up a gun.  You can load more than 100 rounds an hour, but I recommend walking away from the loader every so often just to get focused again.  This is a sport, not an old 1920's factory job....

Later

[half-hitch]

Hi

That will vary quite a bit.  Check your powder weight whenever you start back up and just before you quit, even to take a nature break.  I also check powder weight every 10-20 rounds anyway.  I have a setup that has stayed set up for about 10 years, so I can load 5 rounds or 150 rounds at a time.  When I start reloading for the day, I re-zero my scale (put the scale at 0 grains with nothing in the container), then I load a round with powder, pour it into the scale and check that.  Yes, I'm a bit retentive, but I don't want to blow up a gun.  You can load more than 100 rounds an hour, but I recommend walking away from the loader every so often just to get focused again.  This is a sport, not an old 1920's factory job....

Later

Thanks, 1961MJS.  I thought I'd read somewhere that 100 per hour was doable but since I haven't officially started yet, I just don't see it.  I'd be a happy camper if I can do 100 rounds in an hour.