Good Evening, All;
PREAMBLE:
Several years ago, I saw an illustration from the cover of an old Marine Corps Gazette, featuring a Captain of Marines in fatigue uniform. The illustration was meant to depict a typical company grade officer from the Spanish American War. (see below)
After much research, including tracking down a supplier of English broadcloth, various trims and findings that only a few Regiments of the British Military still use, as well as a 19th Century Military Tailor's manual, I am finally ready to begin construction of a wearable copy. This post, as well as those that follow, will document the process, and hopefully help others who may want a similar uniform (The USMC Fatigue Jacket is quite similar in cut and detail to many British Victorian-era Officer's Patrol Jackets) for themselves. It is my hope that you will enjoy the process as well as the finished product, and will perhaps learn to avoid the mistakes I make along the way.
22 January '07
CONTENTS: Materials and Suppliers:
The following suppliers were utilized for the associated specialty items:
Najecki Reproductions
1203 Reynolds Road
Chepachet, RI 02814
www.najecki.comNajecki carries Superfine English Broadcloth in the correct Navy Blue, and will sell you as little as one yard. Mr. Najecki is very easy to deal with, and is a first-rate sutler. His Superfine is from Hainsworth of Yorkshire, who have supplied the British Army with uniform cloth since the Napoleonic wars. (You could buy from Hainsworth, but they won't sell less than 10 meters of fabric directly.) Approximately 3 to 3-1/2 yards are required for the Fatigue Jacket.
Najecki also supplied ten yards of 1-1/4" wide Black Worsted Wool Braid to trim the Jacket.
Hand Embroidery
86 Margaret Street
London W1W 8TE
www.hand-embroidery.co.ukThe Fatigue Jacket is "fastened" up the front by five Netted Olivettes (elongated football shaped toggles covered in black woolen net) and festooned on either side of the breast with five matching one-inch diameter Netted Buttons. Hand Embroidery of London is the only supplier I have found who are willing to sell these items in small quantities. I did find another supplier who is willing to sell them by the gross (144), but as I could not convince the Treasury Department (my beloved and long-suffering wife) to part with the required sum, I purchased mine from Hand.
Needle and Thread
2215 Fairfield Road
Gettysburg, PA 17325
(717) 334-4011
Needle and Thread carries Hainsworth Woolens (just like Najecki, above) but wanted $5 more per yard at the time I purchased. Needle and Thread did, however, carry (and still does, as far as I know) black polished cotton, the period correct lining material for the coat.
Wm. Booth
Draper
2115 Ramada Drive
Racine, WI 53406
www.wmboothdraper.comBooth carries an obscure item: 1-3/4" wide worsted wool hat braid, in black. This is only necessary for sleeve braiding if you are recreating a field-grade uniform. Booth's part number for this material is WTC 120
Wyedean Weaving Company, Ltd
Bridgehouse Mill
Haworth
West Yorkshire BD22 8PA
www.wyedean.comThe mother lode. These are the folks who actually manufacture much of the trimming still used for Ceremonial British Military Uniforms. They are the only source I was able to find for woolen worsted tubular braid -- the frogging on the breast of the jacket -- and the minimum order was 100 meters. I managed to convince the Treasury Department that this was a necessary purchase, even though my jacket will only require about 10 yards of the stuff. Yes, the other 90+ yards are for sale; just tell me your coat size, and whether you are doing a Field Grade or Company Grade Uniform, (company grade uniforms have Austrian Knots on the sleeves made of this stuff) and I'll tell you how much I think you should buy from me...
There are a few other things you will need to recreate this uniform; thankfully, most of them are available at your local fabric stores.
IN THE NEXT EDITION:
Excerpts from the aforementioned 19th Century Military Tailor's manual on how to draft the pattern.
01/23/07 EDIT: Corrected URL for Hand Embroidery
From: ...com
To: ...co.uk