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Help with Shaping and Sanding a 'Win' Replacement Stock Set


Black River Smith:
As the title states, I need some advice on the final shaping and sanding of a Winchester replacement stock that I have completed the wood to metal fitting.

So my broad general question is what is your sequence and general deeps of usage for rasp filing and sandpaper grades?  What grade of paper do you use 'last' before the final finish of boiled linseed oil and/or tung oil(furnisher grade)?

I know how to shape and work down the edges with a rasp but how deep do you 'general go before' starting to use sandpaper?  I bought an 1892/1894 replacement stock so the comb has to be reshape to correct 'knife edge'.  Coffinmaker -- if you read this -- "You were totally correct in advising to get a specific 1892 cut stock.  This has a sloped 1894 carbine like comb."  This will not recut to the correct original shape or to Prirkle measurements for the tang to comb distance but it will look like the original, when I am done.

The forearm top edge is already sanded down to receiver and nosecap.  Just need to file and sand the length and circumference of both.

Any tips or suggestion will be appreciated for these steps.  Also 'final' finish if you want.  This is a very nice grained black walnut stock but not presentation grade, just standard.

Thanks BRS

Kent Shootwell:
When shaping a stock I have straight edge handy and check if the surfaces are straight from butt towards the action. It’s very important to not end up with a hump in the middle or worst the wood rolling down to the action or butt. After filing neatly 220 grit is as course as needed then 320 for final before finish. Linseed oil isn’t a gun stock finish in my world but people have been lead to think it is. Winchester used varnish. I did a Winchester stock this winter and wrote it up here.

Black River Smith:
Thanks for the comments and I did read that posting before.  What was your finish? Varnish? or something else?

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Kent Shootwell:
That is Tru-Oil which can give a finish much like other varnishes. On that project I wanted to match the well worn forearm.


Like to add a little comment to Kent's and his referenced write-up.

Boiled Linseed oil is not a "Finish."  And yes, over the years, folks have been lead to believe it is.  In point of fact, "Oils" are not "Finishes."  Extreme care must be used with "Tung Oil" as there are some Tung Oils that will NEVER dry and will smell for ever.

To accurately explain finishes, takes a Book.  On which I have several.  Ain't enough band width here.  However, were I to make a recommendation, it would be a good water based varnish.  Oil base varnish will result in a tiny bit of yellowing.  I also prefer the soft appearance of Semi-Gloss.  YMMV

Yes Agnes, People ARE Hazardous to Yer Health


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