For "them as runs" Uberti 1860s ...

Coffinmaker · August 24, 2025, 08:38:53 AM

OB

Dunno if I'm reading this wrong, but JB Weld doesn't work with the Split Washer. JB Weld does work with a fitted flat washer though.

Oregon Bill · September 02, 2025, 11:20:12 AM

Well I bought a split washer, dabbed some Mobile 1 on it, dropped it down the arbor hole, reassembled the revolver, disassembled it and the washer fell out and vanished as predicted. Sooo on the hunt for brass flat washers to use with the JB Weld.

Abilene · September 02, 2025, 01:05:06 PM

Quote from: Oregon Bill on September 02, 2025, 11:20:12 AMWell I bought a split washer...

you bought "A" split washer?

I didn't know you could buy less than a bag. Now, I have recently misplaced my bag, so I need another of those.

45 Dragoon · September 02, 2025, 06:16:58 PM

My goodness, a "split washer" is nothing more than a single coil spring!!!! Why would you use a "spring" as a fix for a "SOLID" connection (which is what the "fix" is supposed to be about!)?
But then again, the "power factor" the cowboy shooters use isn't as "detrimental" to the arm as max charges would be. Still, if an attempt is going to be made, why wouldn't you do a "real" fix rather than half a$$ed? A SOLID spacer (maybe made from the head of a #12 sheet metal screw!!!) is by far a better/ permanent fix than a temporary single coil spring!! In fact, a single,solid spacer is what would be in a "Bear Gun" open-top revolver!! Embedded in the barrel assembly, you wouldn't be looking for it every time you disassembled the revolver and would definitely be the SAME revolver every time you reassembled the revolver!!!
Who woulda thunk?!!!!

Mike

Oregon Bill · September 02, 2025, 07:29:09 PM

Well spoken boys. I thought I would try the split washer quick fix, but it was clearly a waste of time — and 40 cents!

Head of a No. 12 sheet metal screw you say, Mike? The ones with the hex head?

Lucky R. K. · September 03, 2025, 06:24:35 AM

I threaded the end of the arbor 10/32 inserted a long set screw, adjusted until the fit was good, and then applied red Loctite. It is still working just fine.
Lucky

Coffinmaker · September 03, 2025, 07:02:21 PM

Well, the #10 Split washer is a quick and dirty fix, especially if you don't possess an articulated drill press. The split washer is 99% of the time the correct thickness and when you "shove" the gun together, it compresses into the little drill'd cup at the bottom of the barrel bore. It does help to pay attention when you disassemble and reassemble. So don't be so quick to judge Mike. Not everyone has a handy well equipped shop for boring and tapping the Arbor.

I have also used proper thickness BRASS flat washers with JB Weld. Usually the washers have to be turned down a bit with a drill motor to best fit the Arbor Hole in the Barrel lug. The outer circumference of that bore is normally flat and accepts a flat washer quite well. Just be sure to use a releasing agent on the sides of the bore.

The 10-32 Set Screw also Wouks quite well so long as one can drill and tap the Arbor. You may also drill and tap the arbor for a 10-32 cap head screw then file the screw head to a good fit.

Number of ways to skin that cat.

45 Dragoon · September 05, 2025, 09:36:38 AM

Quote from: Oregon Bill on September 02, 2025, 07:29:09 PMWell spoken boys. I thought I would try the split washer quick fix, but it was clearly a waste of time — and 40 cents!
Head of a No. 12 sheet metal screw you say, Mike? The ones with the hex head?

No sir, a pan head Philips sheet metal screw (ss). You cut the shaft off and using a Philips screwdriver bit in a drill, you can sand (with a belt sander) to the thickness you need. The rounded part of the head with nest and self center in the bottom of the hole. It's about a 10 minute deal (after you've done a couple).

Quote from: Lucky R. K. on September 03, 2025, 06:24:35 AMI threaded the end of the arbor 10/32 inserted a long set screw, adjusted until the fit was good, and then applied red Loctite. It is still working just fine.
Lucky

The only problem using a set screw is you're reducing the "contact surface" of the end of the arbor to the diameter of the screw. As I said above, this may be ok for cowboy loads but not heavy loads. Making the "connection" smaller to transfer the "shock" doesn't seem to be a "heavy duty" fix. Of course, you may not need that kind of fix.

Quote from: Coffinmaker on September 03, 2025, 07:02:21 PMWell, the #10 Split washer is a quick and dirty fix, especially if you don't possess an articulated drill press. The split washer is 99% of the time the correct thickness and when you "shove" the gun together, it compresses into the little drill'd cup at the bottom of the barrel bore. It does help to pay attention when you disassemble and reassemble. So don't be so quick to judge Mike. Not everyone has a handy well equipped shop for boring and tapping the Arbor.

I have also used proper thickness BRASS flat washers with JB Weld. Usually the washers have to be turned down a bit with a drill motor to best fit the Arbor Hole in the Barrel lug. The outer circumference of that bore is normally flat and accepts a flat washer quite well. Just be sure to use a releasing agent on the sides of the bore.

The 10-32 Set Screw also Wouks quite well so long as one can drill and tap the Arbor. You may also drill and tap the arbor for a 10-32 cap head screw then file the screw head to a good fit.

Number of ways to skin that cat.

Not being "quick to judge", just don't understand why you wouldn't want the full diameter of the connection to be there. The originals weren't reduced to a 1/4" . . . or anything else . . . it's a brilliant design so why handicap it?
Also, even using a screw screwed into the end of the arbor (to use the head of as a fix) would be akin to stepping on a hose. It's a constriction for the transmission.
And again, I understand you and maybe most can get away with using "normal" to light loads, i just never see any reason not to "over build" rather than just "enough" . . . I'm pretty positive my open-tops wouldn't last or maintain their tolerances with the ammo i test in them. That would be 45acp +p in my '60's and 45C +p's in my Dragoons ( I wouldn't recommend 45C +p's in a '60 !!!)
Mike

Coffinmaker · September 07, 2025, 06:39:13 PM

Sorry Mike

I can see in your frame of reference why you tout "over building" so loudly. Most folks however, aren't really interested in pushing loads and performance way beyond what the guns were originally designed and built for. Most of our fandom just want their guns to work for CAS at responsible CAS loading, not necessarily to go Diesel Hunting on I-20.

Face it. If a shooters' gun goes together each time, with the correct End Shake/Barrel to Cylinder Gap, repeatedly, for 20 Cents, in two minutes time, with no machine shop, it's a success.

Now, if Uberti had just built the guns the way Colt did, where they fit correctly out of the box, we shouldn't need this discussion. Except of course, pushing the guns well beyond intended stresses.

45 Dragoon · September 08, 2025, 11:50:22 AM

No problem here CM!! I know I'm in "new territory" so to speak and I do realize (and agree) that if folks can do a "quick an easy" fix that suits their needs, that's fine.
I gotta say though, it's very satisfying to bring this platform into a more contemporary context to be thought of as a viable option for hunters and target shooters that some modern handguns can't "fit the bill" for.

Thuther Mike