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The Leather Shop / Re: Leather Scabbard Repair?
« Last post by DJ on Today at 08:36:45 PM »
I'm probably not doing this right, but I'm taking my shot.

To start out I made a round tube of 2/3 oz leather for the lower few inches of the scabbard to go under the worst part of the damage--that turned out to be too bulky, and while I was figuring out my insert was too fat the stitching pretty much unzipped all the way up the scabbard.  I ended up cutting the insert down to a half-round reinforcement that fit under the seam.  After making the insert I brushed on some glue and slid it in so it pressed against the underside of the seam.  Then, while the glue was still wet, I glued the full length of the seam back together, edge-to-edge.  I used rubber bands over wax paper to hold it all together while it cured and inserted the bayonet to make sure it didn't get squeezed too small.  I then set everything aside while waiting for the postman.

Following up the on the lead about red rot (thanks St. George), I did a little research and found a product that supposedly retards the disintegration--the one I got is called Cellugel, but there are others with similar names.  This stuff is apparently intended to restore the leather bindings of antique books.  Anyway, it soon arrived, and I put it to work.  The product is a gelatinous clear goop that reminded me of a jellyfish--it seemed to have a little more body than edible jelly.  The instructions are sparse, and, I suspect, geared toward repair of thin leather book bindings.  They suggest an initial coating and, after it dries, a second application.  The idea is that the stuff soaks into and binds the leather fibers together.

I was concerned that with the jelly-like consistency it was not soaking into the leather as deeply as it should.  The label says it can be thinned with 100% isopropyl but doesn't say why you would want to do that.  I only had 91% isopropyl and 95% ethyl--I went with the isopropyl and will save the Everclear for a different application.  I was not precise with my measuring, but a mix of about 50-50 was thinner, but not so runny that it would drip off without soaking in.  I ended up using one thick and three thinned applications, plus I slopped some on the bayonet and inserted into the scabbard to try to get some on the inside surfaces.   

All-in-all I'm pleased with the result--still have some cleanup of extra glue to work on, need to decide on some kind of finish, and also need to figure out a finial; I'll probably just leave the stitches as-is, because I'm not really a leather-guy and would most likely just mess them up.  But the scabbard seems much more solid and like it will stay together, at least for awhile longer.
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CAS City Classifieds / Re: WTB or Trade for: Smith & Wesson 629
« Last post by Niederlander on Today at 08:21:41 PM »
Nope!  Just like shooting big bore Smiths, but I want adjustable sights!
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I have this posted over in Civil War Talks, but thought it might be interesting here also.
 https://civilwartalk.com/threads/the-tale-of-a-nm1863-sharps-carbine-ser-72351-converted-to-m1868.192519/
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Good Evening:

I have for sale an excellent copy of the hardcover book, Packing Iron: Gunleather of the Frontier West by Richard C. Rattenbury.
Hardcover with dust jacket.
Will be shipped well-protected in a USPS Priority Mail box, fully  insured.
$112 Shipped Priority Mail
Checks, money orders, Paypal F&F all work for me.
Thanks
--Dawg
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Bad Bob is correct,,But!! it is an easy fix,,Put the colt grips on and just file the frame down flush with the grip panels,,Then reblue the bare steel .  A few tips before doing this,,Deepen the slot in the screw head before filing the bottom of grip strap because you will also be filing down the head of the screw at the same time,,Also you will need to drill a hole for the grip pin ,,just put one grip on and mark the trigger guard strap in proper place,, If after  putting pin in and if you notice any play in the grip you can fix that with a drop of bedding compound in the grip pin hole,,I have replaced the one piece grips on several of my Uberti revolvers with the colt black eagle grips this way.
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The Winchester Model 1873 / Re: 1873 30 inch conundrum.
« Last post by Baltimore Ed on Today at 12:41:06 PM »
Where the lifter on my stoeger ‘73 cams the next [255 gr swc- 1.40 inch]  45 Schofield cartridge back into the magazine this rifles lifter is different enough that it doesn’t cam the round, just locks up. I guess the angle of the radius on the front bottom of the lifter is too flat.
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The Leather Shop / Re: Trail riding secure carry 1911 EMP
« Last post by Marshal Will Wingam on Today at 12:38:51 PM »
That's a cool holster. Nice work, Major.

I'm combining this thread with the non-cowboy thread so it doesn't disappear down the line over time.
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The Winchester Model 1873 / Re: 1873 30 inch conundrum.
« Last post by DeaconKC on Today at 12:34:31 PM »
Gotta agree with Abilene. Trade it for what you want. Maybe look at a 92 with a 24" barrel. It would be a lot lighter and still have a reasonable sight radius.
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The Winchester Model 1873 / Re: 1873 30 inch conundrum.
« Last post by Abilene on Today at 12:11:14 PM »
My thought would be sell it and buy what you will use.  But why won't it run Schofields?  I run them in my 16" '73 since it is so much easier to load ten than with .45 Colt.  It needs a 200 or 250gr bullet to be long enough to cycle.
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The Winchester Model 1873 / 1873 30 inch conundrum.
« Last post by Baltimore Ed on Today at 11:51:43 AM »
Guys, thought I’d bounce this off you. Y’all are smarter than I am. I bought this nice 30 inch .45 Cimarron 1873 thirty plus years ago. It turned into a hot mess when I discovered the beautiful new looking rifle had a bogus barrel and would pattern as opposed to group. As it had Cimarron’s name on the barrel I contacted them. After initially claiming the rifle wasn’t theirs they relented and I shipped them the ‘73. It stayed there a whole year while a barrel was built and shipped from uberti. Anyway the gun now groups but at 71 I have issues with the weight. As I’m not as strong as I was then so shooting a ten round string is tough. Because of that I haven’t shot it in a match in quite a while. My 24 inch marlin or 27 inch ‘66 musket are manageable plus I have an original ’73 musket. And I’m really liking my Marlin Trapper ‘94 and Stoeger 18 inch ‘73 builds so much better. My conundrum is do I sell the long barreled critter or cut it to 19-20 inch? As it won’t run Schofield loads it can’t become a trapper but it wouldn’t look good that short anyway. Appreciate any thoughts you might have.
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