All,
Below is some excellent research by a pard in Michigan, Robert Huntoon. He's big into authenticity and does good research as you'll read below. I posted this info initially to the Michigan NCOWS Association e-group and was able to extract the electrons from the archives to paste it below.
If you have other such information on shotgun chaps please post, I'll ensure the information gets back to Mr. Huntoon.
<info from Huntoon follows>
From the photos, I have extrapolated the following construction
details of early 1880's chaps:
- Early chaps seem to rise a fair amount higher (at least 3 inches
plus) in the front than modern ones. I am judging this from gun belt
location in relation to the chap belt and those few photos where the
trouser fly and trouser tops are visible
- The top belt is much wider at the front than modern examples
(something on the order of 3 ½ to 4+ inches) and does not seem to
taper to as narrow a (waist) closing belt width as we expect today. I
was under the mistaken impression from my other reading (Cowboys &
the Trappings of the Old West by Manns and Flood) that the one piece
top belt (no lacing) was a sign of early manufacture. In carefully
studying the photos in the book, I See By Your Outfit by Lindmeir
and Mount, the type of top belt was apparently a matter of maker's
preference in the 1880's and 90's. Where the 3/8 to 1/2 inch flat
leather lace front closure is used, there seem to be 6 to 9 lace
holes per side. I assume that the top belt would be the 7 to 9 ounce
weight of a gun belt.
- The top belt detail that we cannot be sure about from photos is
whether the top belt has a sewn on buckle and waist closure strap
billets. Don Rickey, in 10 Dollar Horse and Forty Dollar Saddle leans
toward these being an integral part of the tops. Later pair
definitely had added on billets. The early examples photographed in
the American Frontier from the Buffalo Bill Museumall have added
billets with roller buckles.
- Sewn top belts and pockets are in the majority. Only two of the
photo examples have pockets apparently laced on
- Another "photo invisible" detail are the buckles. These may be
roller or square gun belt style. The roller type would seem likely
from a saddler/harness maker since they would be all over his shop.
Gun belt style is slightly less possible in my view on early
examples.
- Hip reinforcements are very common and fly reinforcement a bit less
so (Victorian modesty?). The question of applying them on the face
side or the reverse side apparently was a matter of maker's
discretion. Photos seem to show face side as most common.
- Pocket size and placement varies, but sewn on seems most common.
- Leg fringe appears on every pair, but length varies. 3 ¾ to 4 ½
seems a good norm.
- Fringe around pockets and along the top belt seam are definitely a
later turn of the century "style" addition and are NOT desirable on
an early pair.
- Cuff reinforcement appears to be about 2 to 3 inches on the
earliest pairs – later pairs seem to have deeper cuff reinforcement.
- Conchos on the leg lacing, while spiffy, are apparently an 1890's
and later "style" addition.