Model 12 Shotgun getting it slicked for WB

[Thomas (Tom) Horn aka James Hicks]

The old girl has been approved for Wild Bunch January 2013... If'n you buy one of these old, great shotguns, better check her out before attempting to shoot it in a match. Most of these gems will HAVE PROBLEMS. They will take 6 rounds in the mag tube (featherlites will only take 4).

If you want to slick the gun yourself... be prepared for some frustrations with the TRIGGER GROUP. I suggest ordering a manual for the folks who like to tinker with their guns. Ebay has some of these on their website. Parts should not be a problem with the Model 12.

There is a lot of talk on the SASS Wild Bunch Forum in regards to the Model 12. Here is something I found that might be useful to those who buy a Model 12. The gun has what is called an ACTION SLIDE LOCK. There is a button on the left side rear of the trigger guard, this button moves up and down depending on what position the hammer is in. This is how you tell if the hammer is down (fired position) or in the cocked position). A lot of these old guns will have ACTION SLIDE LOCK PROBLEMS. The solution to this problem is to remove the trigger group and see if there are burrs or machine marks that restrict the movement of the ACTION SLIDE LOCK. I found that by polishing the forward arm and removing some of the metal on the top of the arm and insuring the channel that the ACTION SLIDE LOCK rides in is free of burrs and is fully polished makes a world of difference in the action of this shotgun.

As far as to the cutting of the barrels, that is up to the owner. Most of these guns out there ARE NOT COLLECTOR TYPE GUNS, most have been abused by previous owners, so cutting the barrel is not going to devalue the gun. If the Model 12 is in mint condition, then I would not cut, buy an xtra barrel and cut it. But I assure you most of these old gems need a lot of work before using in competition.

[Red Cent]

TH, the ol' 97 has one also.

[Slowhand Bob]

The one I picked up was a sixties version and actually very tight.  Almost everyone I am seeing has a Cutts Compensator on the end and I picked the newest, tightest of the bunch.  The one downside is that by the end of production these were looking like modern sporting guns with the big wood on the front.  I obtained a small early style forend from Ebay but have not tried it for fit yet but have been told it may not work due to metal changes underneath??  The dealer had several on consignment but I held off in hopes of picking up one of the Chinechester 97s in good shape, perhaps even a Trench Gun version???

[Advertising]

[Thomas (Tom) Horn aka James Hicks]

Red Cent- Yes I know, but... I did not have this problem with my '97.
Slowhand Bob- The Model 12 I have was made in 1919 (SN: 209505) It does not have a ribbed barrel, it is a TakeDown model. I found it in an Estate Sale and got it for a very low price. The wood is in great shape, a few nicks from use, but no cracks or deep gouges. Action is tight. Removed the plug in the mag tube, it takes 6 rounds, no problem. Disassembly of the trigger group is not for the faint hearted, it can be very frustrating. I had to drill a small hole in the Hammer Spring Guide Rod. My gun did not have a hole in it, almost impossible to get the Hammer seated correctly without that hole so you can compress the hammer spring and secure it with a pin. Most of the Model 12's have a hole in the hammer spring guide rod. The biggest problem I had with this gun was getting the Action Slide Lock  (button on the rear of the lock) to indicate hammer down. I worked on it for a day with no results. Pecos Clyde came to my rescue with a pointer on how to correct. The problem with the Action Slide Lock is now corrected. But it took some doin. I polished all parts where there is metal to metal contact, to include polishing the channels inside the receiver frame. The channel where the Action Slide Lock rides in was burred very bad, and I had to really polish the arm part of the Action Slide Arm. The gun works the way a pump action is suppose to.  But for all you cowpokes who are planning on getting a Model 12... I tell you this in advance... most of these old gems are going to need a LOT OF WORK... if you want them to shoot right for Wild Bunch. I found this manual on ebay titled "Winchester Model 12 Assembly, Disassembly, Lubrication, Maintenance", etc by Michael A. Pugliese. It cost me $6.95...but worth every penny. SHB... you can always cut the barrel if it has a Cutts Compensator on it.. that is ifn the barrel is long enough...laughing

[Red Cent]

I pulled my M12 riot gun out of the back of the safe the other day. I bough this one used about 1974. Shot it a bunch yers bck but I hve never di-assembled the shotgun. Takedown model is like the 97. Ain't hard. As Tom said, the trigger group is interesting.
The removal of the bolt is  little different. It slides back, back of the bolt will drop and a little more back and the whole bolt will drop out. And the shell stop is just lying there. A long strip of metal. It will drop out once you remove the bolt. The M12 shell stop is a lot better and simpler than the 97s.
When I dropped the trigger group i noticed thee springs/wire that gave tension to th slide lock release were very rust and crumbling. Ibelieve these two springs are the most difficult part of the gun ecept for headspace. When you drop the trigger group the springss/wires actually hold th slidelock release to th group. If you drop yours be careful. The wires are about the sie of 2" safety pins and become crudded up, rusty and brittle. With the wires gone you can pull the slide release out horizontally. Gives you great access to the slots for the new springs. But......you cannot put them on yet.

[Red Cent]

You have to take the screw out of the middle of the slide lock release arm. You can see the slot in the screw. On the backside of the slide lock release are lots for the springs/wire. You stake them in. That screw. It slides into the hole/recess you see in the middle of the trigger group. But...... you have to remove the screw because the wires will not allow you to slide it in . So. Put the wire in (they extend to thee fron tof the trigger group and under a lug n the hammer. One under and the other over.



Now when the screw is removed you can drop the slide release arm in place from the top with the wires on the inside of the wall that forms the side of the trigger housing. Oh yeah, the screw. Well, there is a  hole that runs clear through. So from the other side you notice that the trigger is partially blocking the hole. So you knock the pin out holding the trigger. Careful, there is a small coil spring in a hole in the trigger. Now you can, with a small screwdriver, push the screw from one side of the group into the threads on the slide lock release. Re-install the trigger and your good to go.

I thought you had to remove the hammer. Oh well. Now I can clean it up also

If'n I can help anyone let me know.

[Red Cent]

BTW, the best thing to use is a soft wire wheel toclean these parts. The lubricants have somewhat hardened and the spinning wheel is self cleaning. And it makes short work of accumulated crud.. I use a stinless wheel on the Dremel. WEAR BIG GLASSES!! The wires on the wheel let go sometime. Just like the biggn's.

[August]

You're all aces in my book Red Cent.

[Red Cent]

Thanks August.

[Red Cent]

The model 12 is coming together. Got some parts I ordered the other day. I decided I wanted to perk up the look of the M12. After replacing a couple of parts, I did some beadblasting. I also removed all the finish on the wood and went at it with ArmorAll and TruOil. Wood shows some good grain. I was pleasantly surprised.
Now runs super slick and looks pretty good.

[Red Cent]

This one was purchased by a shooter friend from Gander Mtn. $325.00. The gun is a redo but they did a good job. Used to be a 30"er.
Slicked up really good.

[Grapevine Jimmy]

It appears that there will be several Model 12's at Creedmore this Saturday! Weather looks good, should be a lot of fun.

Grapevine Jimmy

[Thomas (Tom) Horn aka James Hicks]

Red Cent and others-
Here is my model 12 after doing all the action work. I re-blued the gun after a lot of sanding out all the rust pits. The receiver was the worst, it looked like that is where the owner carried it and never cleaned it... receiver was pitted, but not deep pits, probably from sweaty hands. I did not cut the original barrel. I found a barrel already cut on ebay, but whoever cut the barrel, left vice marks on it, so I sanded out the vice marks, and re-blued. I used Wonder Blue is Jet Black, this was my first experience at re-bluing. Looking forward in seeing how the old gal is going to perform in a match...

[Red Cent]

Hey, I like the subtle bling. Looks real good.

[Thomas (Tom) Horn aka James Hicks]

RC-
Thanks mucho....

[Jubal Starbuck]

How hard is it to change barrels on a Model 12?  Is this something I can do or is a visit to a gunsmith recommended?

[Slowhand Bob]

I think there is something about split threads that would definitely require some advanced gunsmithing.  I know nothing about these guns so there is a lot of guess work and assumption being thrown in here!

[Red Cent]

The takedown M12s act like a 97. Push the pin, turn the tube a quarter turn, push the slide forward. Twist of barrel and receiver extension.
To change barrels, I would get a barrel and I would buy another receiver extension. Have someone put it on with a "jig" to hold the receiver extension. Then you would have two barrel assemblies that you switch back and forth. The forearm assembly, mag tube, and action slide will switch also.
There is a very slight chance you might run into a headspace problem. Rare. And you don't want to hear about that.