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STORM / Re: Uberti '51 Navy .38 problem
« Last post by Coffinmaker on Yesterday at 08:55:22 AM »

 :)  Sir Fox   ;)

Several suggestions have surfaced (thank you Abilene) and all work to different degrees.  Backing the wedge out sorta works but gives you a "different" gun every time you clean and reassemble it.

Without machine tools, quick and dirty includes dropping a #10 Stainless Split washer down the Hole in the barrel lug, pushing the gun back together and refitting the wedge.  Just don't forget the washer when you clean and reassemble.  You can also source a Brass flat washer to fit as well.  The Brass flat washer can also be epoxied to the end of the Arbor or at the Bottom of the barrel bore.  Be diligent to apply releasing agent to the parts NOT to become PERMANENT.

The absolute LAST resort is to remove any material from the breach end of the barrel.  Unless just adding an 11 degree forcing cone.

I, as a Gunsmith, have always viewed Uberti Open Top pattern guns as expensive "KITS" with "Some Assembly Required."

Stay Safe Out There
Tall Tales / Re: It May be a new month, who knows
« Last post by River City John on Yesterday at 08:32:25 AM »
Thanks Slim. Our weather forecast for today is the same, word for word.

Cheesy scrambled eggs and toast with bacon if you're hungry.

Today is combustible cartridge tube production day. Need to make 120 or so, then charge and seat ball tomorrow. NCOWS National coming up.
Tall Tales / Re: It May be a new month, who knows
« Last post by Silver Creek Slim on Yesterday at 07:49:05 AM »
Morning y'all.
Coffee and tea are hot.

'Tis 47 and mostly sunny. High of 69.

STORM / Re: Uberti '51 Navy .38 problem
« Last post by Dave Fox on Yesterday at 06:55:44 AM »
I thank you for your prompt, thoughtful response, Friend Shootwell. Most helpful. Before I posted I scrolled-down several layers of prior topics without finding the references I also presumed were there.
STORM / Re: Uberti '51 Navy .38 problem
« Last post by Marshal Will Wingam on Yesterday at 12:06:19 AM »
Professor Marvel posted links to Pettifogger's mods which include how to correct the arbor fit in this thread.
The Winchester Model 1876 / Re: Loading Data for the 50/95WCF
« Last post by hpbear101 on May 12, 2021, 10:46:50 PM »
Please forgive my ignorance. And also it’s great to be a part of this great page and to be amongst all the vast knowledge here. So I am extremely new at reloading 50-95 express. So new that I have not done it yet . I have reloaded 45 colt and 45 ACP for about a year and love it. Anyhow back to the subject. I found some 50 Alaska brass at Wild West Guns (store) in Alaska, I bought that and a set of 50 Alaskan 3 die set made by hornady. Got an RCBS case trimmer bought the appropriate shell holder. Found some 50 caliber cast bullets 450 grain, diameter is .512. I’m trying to figure out what the case length of the 50 Alaskan brass needs to be? I have a 28 inch barrel Stoger 1876 made in 2019. Tried to call Uberti and couldn’t get anyone. Called Cimmaron and they told me the bore diameter of the rifle is .507 from the bottom of the grooves.  So would this bullet work? Will the 50 Alaska. Does work? And what should the case length be? 1.92-1.94? I’m really confused and any info is greatly appreciated. 

Joey, I too have a Stoeger/Uberti in 50-95, unsure of production time frame as I bought it from an on line auction and have no information on it's past other than it appeared unfired. Here is what works for me.

I use RCBS 50-95 dies, Accurate 51-350 CL mold, and 50AK brass trimmed to 1.865. Lee will make a custom trim setup for this caliber but they can't/wont make a FCD over .500, the trimmer setup was inexpensive and works well. Cut your 50AK brass a little long then trim to you specified length, I didn't have to do anything else to the brass. I would recommend you make up 5 cases to try out and make sure all is well before doing the rest of them. 50Ak brass is slightly undersized at the base so after firing it will have a slight bulge forward of the rim but it doesn't cause any problems.

The original length of 1.92" was for at 300 grain bullet sitting over a compressed load of BP, then crimped over the ogive. I came up with the 1.865 case length from the following: OAL should be around 2.25" to feed through the 76, the crimp groove on the 51-350CL is .385" back from the flat nose 2.25"-.385"=1.865" it works for me, feeds fine and seems quite accurate. My bore slugs .511 and I would recommend that you check/slug your bore as you will want to be approximately .001" over your bore diameter, I size to .512". I find the 51-350CL works fine for smokeless but really doesn't hold enough lube for BP. If I were going to shoot strictly BP I would recommend looking at some different molds. I also have a Rapine 300 grain mold, as well as a RCBS mold for my 50-100-450 that throws a 450 grain bullet that seems slightly more accurate for the twist rate in the Uberti. However, I'm kind of old school and not too sure a steady diet of 450 grain bullets is all that good even in a modern 76 so I stick with primarily the 350 grain and some 300 grain, YMMV just my opinion.

Good luck with the project, the 76 in 50-95 (or any CAL for that matter) is quite a treat to own/shoot.

STORM / Re: Uberti '51 Navy .38 problem
« Last post by Abilene on May 12, 2021, 07:48:57 PM »
Try not pushing in the wedge as far.  If this means that the dished out portion on top of the wedge is not far in enough for the wedge screw head to turn in it, then back the wedge screw out a turn or two first.  This is the "quick and dirty" way, and it has worked for me in the past.  If the arbor is too short and you fix it by adding length or by dropping a small washer down the arbor hole in the barrel, you may also end up with the wedge not going in far enough and again, back out the wedge screw first.  The proper way would be to "fit" (shave) the wedge after fixing the arbor length, but quick and dirty works. 

If after all that, there is still insufficient gap, then you might need to take a bit off the back of the barrel.
STORM / Re: Uberti '51 Navy .38 problem
« Last post by Kent Shootwell on May 12, 2021, 07:13:07 PM »
It’s a Uberti, the arbor is short. The fix has been covered many times here.
STORM / Uberti '51 Navy .38 problem
« Last post by Dave Fox on May 12, 2021, 06:53:36 PM »
Number of years ago, after reading a laudatory review in "American Rifleman" (it was one of the most accurate .38s they'd ever tested), I bought a Uberti 1871 open top Navy .38. It's a beautiful piece, well finished and tight. Too tight. Assembled, the cylinder rotates freely although there's no discernible gap between the cylinder face and barrel face. Black powder utterly ties it up. 777 isn't much better. Bullseye allows me to rotate the cylinder after the first shot with manual help. How do I assemble this pistol leaving a tad of a gap? I've tried slipping a Bubba feeler guage (a piece of Dr. Pepper can) in while assembling but that didn't work.
Cosie's Corner & Feed Bag / Re: Chuckwagon
« Last post by Delmonico on May 12, 2021, 05:32:15 PM »
This week's edition of the "Livestock Weekly" has a classified ad for a Newton chuckwagon with cooking equipment and harnesses included. For sale by Paul Hudman 325-895-5123; $15000. I don't know him. It's not my wagon. I don't know what the price should be.
I just thought someone in this unique group might have an interest. I also figured that I might be the only list member who gets that particular paper. From the phone number he is out in west Texas. Probably in Bronte in Clay County (which is locally pronounced Bront).
The Livestock Weekly is published in San Angelo, Texas. I only read two newspapers - Mason County News and Livestock Weekly. Helps with my attitude.
John in beautiful and unseasonably cool Art, Texas

If it's set up and ready to go like Norton's it's a good price.   If it's has a documented history way back it's a way good price, Norton's was built off a freight wagon in the 70's but was fully equipped.

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