Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
CAS TOPICS => The Leather Shop => Topic started by: Marshal Will Wingam on May 27, 2022, 07:04:46 PM
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Holster construction is not a mystery and most people can do it if they know what to do. This thread will show the way I make holsters. Most of the time, that is, since there are no absolute rules on how to proceed and I stray off my own reservation when the job calls for it. Most photos in this thread show the tools used for that corresponding step. It might take some time between additions to the thread because this will get done as I can put the time into it.
You have to have a plan and know what you want as an end result before you start. For this project, I chose to make a holster like the Wild Bill Hickock one in Packing Iron on page 88. Unlike the original, this one won't be lined.
(https://i.imgur.com/6kXwyJP.png)
It’s easier to modify an existing pattern than to draw one from scratch. There’s no sense having to do all the initial design work again if there’s a pattern on hand that already is right. My modified Gallatin pattern was the starting point.
(https://i.imgur.com/abb7nRx.jpg)
The newly made Hickock pattern is on the right.
(https://i.imgur.com/h3rdfj4.jpg)
I like to use manila folders for patterns because they hold up for quite a few uses and I generally make some change(s) before making too many of the same design as is the case this time.
That pattern then gets transferred to the leather, along with other parts. The toe plug will get cut from one of the scraps. I used a blue fine ball point pen for tracing this because it’s easy to follow and it doesn’t soak into the leather. Any remaining ink on the cut piece will get beveled off later. It's good to make sure you don’t have a leaky pen or it will seriously mess up your project. Blueprint weights come in handy to hold leather flat when tracing.
(https://i.imgur.com/q4DIpwg.jpg)
Before cutting the holster out, I like to punch the tight inside curves on the throat first. Then I cut following the lines.
(https://i.imgur.com/MHrxAB5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WASbjiZ.jpg)
Now all the pieces are cut out and ready for the decorative work. A scrap is saved to make the toe plug. The leather scrap with jeweler’s rouge on it is for stropping the blade to keep it cutting smoothly.
(https://i.imgur.com/5sTgMzN.jpg)
The decorative part is done. The edges that aren’t going to be stitched are beaded and the simple ¼” border is cut and beveled. Now it dries for the next step. For obvious reasons the photo doesn't include the drill press I used to impress the maker's stamp on it.
(https://i.imgur.com/0QroxWi.jpg)
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:) Just TOO KOOL!! ;)
People are still Hazardous to yer Health!!
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Thanks, Coffinmaker. It's fun to do, too.
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There are a few steps to do before dying. The back of the throat edge gets beveled, as does the back of the belt loop. The belt loop is also skived a little thinner (off the top grain) where it stitches on at the upper end. Stitch grooves get cut on both pieces. The square is to keep the straight line running across the belt loop straight. With the stitch grooves cut, the very edge is shaved off with a small bevel to take the sharpness off and any remaining ball point men marks get removed in the process.
For dye, the holster gets a dark brown mix, diluted a little with alcohol. The pieces are then set aside for the dye to dry thoroughly.
(https://i.imgur.com/tHdoXvP.jpg)
And after a second coat of dye since the first didn’t cover quite enough.
(https://i.imgur.com/pL6GTy6.jpg)
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Excellent tutorial! I like how you displayed the tools used to make the Holster. That's a great tip about using a punch for tight radius cutting, I've always had problems cutting tight radii with a knife. A punch makes a perfect cut.
I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished project.
I took the attached picture at the Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody, Wyoming. They say the Pistol and Holster was supposed to be owned by Wild Biil and was raffled off to pay his funeral expenses?
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Thanks, John. Thank you also for posting the photo. That holster is the the right side. It must be the match for the left side one in Packing Iron. But then, he wore them butt forward so that would be the left to match with the right one in PI. ;D That's one thing I like about Slim Jims. They are suitable for either way of wearing them.
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To be honest, I always thought slim Jim's looked funny.
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IMHO the Slim Jim is the most exquisite holster design ever
Just as I consider the Colt 1860 Army the most elegant revolver ever....
Opinions however may vary
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:) Nah. ;)
But almost Major 2. Most Elegant Revolver title falls to the 1860 Richards conversion. Pure artistry in steel. The modern made over size examples are just poor imitations. Really poor imitations. One must start with the correct size frame and barrel assembly.
If one follows the Slim Jim holster as it evolved, you wind up with modern "speed" holsters. I really like the sewn in toe plugs too. Righteous KOOL they are.
Seriously!! People Are Hazardous to Yer Health!!
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Excellent post. I always enjoy seeing how others do their holsters. I always find out new processes or tools to use. Always interesting. Looking forward to seeing the rest.
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I prefer Slim Jim holsters for comfort. I find them visually appealing, too, because the design is so clean. No frills, just function. They fit the bill for elegant. Very suitable for the 1860. Over all, I like a stitched toe rather than a sewn in plug but having made a bunch of them both ways, my preference is slight.
The 1860 and the conversions are beautiful but I can't say either is more so. After all, they are both the same pistol, one is just modified. They both are elegant beyond all other pistols.
Excellent post. I always enjoy seeing how others do their holsters. I always find out new processes or tools to use. Always interesting. Looking forward to seeing the rest.
Thanks, Rube. I'm hoping to get on it again today or tomorrow.
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IMHO the Slim Jim is the most exquisite holster design ever
I prefer Slim Jim holsters for comfort. I find them visually appealing, too, because the design is so clean. No frills, just function. They fit the bill for elegant.
My sentiments exactly
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I had a few minutes this morning so I did a bit more on it. The edges on the belt loop and the upper curves are burnished with gum tragacanth. For that, I like to use a piece of old cotton fire hose. I have no idea where one would get a piece of that these days. Maybe the new nylon fire hose would also work. I’ve heard canvass works good, too.
The stitches are marked on both ends of the belt loop, down the main seam and across both sides of the toe.
(https://i.imgur.com/zJM92y4.jpg)
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Looking great so far.
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Thanks, Rube. More coming.
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To attach the belt loop, I stitch the upper end first. That's right where the cylinder will be. To prevent the cylinder from wearing through the stitching, I hold it securely, punch the corners with an awl then flip it over and cut stitch grooves from corner to corner so the stitching can lie below the surface.
(https://i.imgur.com/W7T5QLa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YIuIYo9.jpg)
After punching the rivet hole, I wet the belt loop where it will fold over and bring it down to locate where the hole will go through the holster itself. With the rivet hole punched, a brad point drill can be used to recess where the head of the rivet will be so it doesn’t snag the pistol as it goes in or out of the holster.
(https://i.imgur.com/X5yJAnX.jpg)
After that, I set the rivet and stitch the lower end of the belt loop. It helps to wet the spot where the rivet goes so it will pull into the leather a little. The stitch lines are also set in stitch grooves on the inside to prevent future wear. To cut the curved part, I punch all the holes first then freehand the groove along the line of holes. The wire cutters were used to cut the copper rivet to the proper length. I see the photo doesn't include the 2" Vice Grips I used to hold the belt loop while I punched the upper corner holes.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ky97gFg.jpg)
With the belt loop on, I like to punch the holes along the front side of the main seam before assembly. Then I wet the holster where the fold will be and carefully fold it over and catch it with a few ties of thread to hold it until the leather dries. At this point, the only holes through the back are where the ties are. The rest will get punched when it’s stitched.
(https://i.imgur.com/icgP0vV.jpg)
Since the leather is wet, I also give the proper shape to the toe so I can make a toe plug later on.
(https://i.imgur.com/q8N0jzT.jpg)
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I got a little more done today.
To stitch the main seam, I start at the top and back stitch three stitches because the trigger guard area of the holster gets the most stress and if the main seam is going to fail, that’s the place where it will happen first.
(https://i.imgur.com/nCY2mcZ.jpg)
At the toe I also back stitch one or two before tying off the stitching. Since this is going to get a toe plug and I am going to use a separate thread for that, this buries the knot away from the end hole, where the second thread will also go through to start stitching the toe plug. This is all subjective and everyone has their own way they like to stitch up a holster with a toe plug. Some just carry the stitch line around the end and do the toe plug without starting a new thread.
(https://i.imgur.com/fnrKjBk.jpg)
To make the toe plug, I trace the toe on a piece of heavy paper.
(https://i.imgur.com/upaHEsE.jpg)
Then I draw the actual pattern inside that line the thickness of the leather.
(https://i.imgur.com/KYoiiob.jpg)
To have a double thickness of leather, I glued another piece of leather to the back of the one I dyed and saved aside for the toe plug. Barge cement doesn’t hold the way it used to so I had to glue the pieces together twice then beat the tar out of them with a smooth faced hammer every few minutes until the glue held. I really have to find a replacement for Barge. The stuff just doesn’t hold like it used to. I’m not going to touch it for at least 24 hours so it has time to cure.
(https://i.imgur.com/ImVAvVQ.jpg)
On a side note, that hammer is old. My father gave it to me when I was first starting to work with leather. Not only does it do a great job, it was my grandfather's so it it has sentimental value, too.
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Awesome heirloom hammer. Great to actually work and use something you know your grandfather used to use also.
Do you cut your Barge? Just asking because I have not had any problems with Barge not holding but I leave mine in the original can and do not cut it with anything. I can't speak for how it is compared to back when because I have only been doing leather work for almost two years but I haven't had any problems.
Holster is looking good by the way.
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One of the best tutorials I've ever seen. The photography is first class professional.
Many thanks for sharing your expertise with us,
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How do you make sure the stitching is even on the back? Do you use an awl or a punch?
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Thanks, Rube, I cut it with Barge thinner when it gets too thick but for some reason it just doesn't work like it used to.
Thank you, John. LOL, it takes about four times the time to do the photos as it does to do the work.
How do you make sure the stitching is even on the back? Do you use an awl or a punch?
I cut a stitch groove on the back then just watch for the tip of the awl to come out in the right place as I carefully push it through. The light will glint on the tip as it just starts to show. Also, I am very careful to hold the awl at exactly the same angle and slant. When I start the (second) needles from the back, I make sure they all are either under or over the other thread sticking out of the hole so they lie the same when pulled tight. Here's a shot of the back. The first back stitch at the toe got a little wonky but the rest look OK.
(https://i.imgur.com/MA9CD8c.jpg)
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The toe plug pattern I made yesterday just didn’t look round enough so this morning I made a new one. I found that a wine cork just fit into the toe nicely so I used that as the circle then just added a point to make it fit the end of the holster.
I considered gluing the toe plug in before stitching but I a) don’t have any suitable glue for the job, b) don’t even know what kind of glue would be suitable and c) do have a lot of experience stitching them in. So I just stitched the toe plug in without any glue. A double layer plug is easier to stitch in because it holds its position in the toe better than a single layer. Also, I can stitch through the point to keep it in place, much like the glue would have done anyway. Cutting the stitch groove went through the top grain far enough to go through the dye so I had to take a small brush and put dye into the groove to darken it to match the rest of the holster.
(https://i.imgur.com/toeoj31.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UA5Tnz2.jpg)
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Before burnishing the seams, they need to be made even. That can be done by trimming with a knife, some other cutting instrument, sanding by hand or with a Dremel, drill press-mounted drum sander or, as I did, with a spindle sander. It doesn't matter how you do it, as long as the job gets done. After that it helps to run an edger along both sides to make sure there aren't any sharp edges which don't burnish easily. That done, the seam got a quick wipe of dye to darken it and even out the color. The seams were burnished with gum trag and the chunk of fire hose I used before.
(https://i.imgur.com/Lo3FyFZ.jpg)
The next step was to wet mold the holster. As it worked out, the tip of the barrel is less than 1/4" from the toe plug on the inside. I love it when things work out.
(https://i.imgur.com/C281F24.jpg)
The Sun will darken the holster some and give it a nice patina.
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I 100% agree with Johnny McCrae
That is as fine a job of a tutorial and photography as I've seen, this should be a sticky.
Or even better as a You-Tube feature!
When the likes of Skeeter Lewis, Johnny McCrae and Rube Burrows comment favorably, you know you have reached the top tier.... very well done!
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Thank you very much, Major. That's quite a compliment. I don't think a sticky is in order but perhaps a link to it in our FAQ thread so others can find it in the future.
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One glue you might want to try for the seam and toe plug is Walther's Goo. It is available from Wm. Walthers in Milwaukee, WI, a major model railroad supplier. You may also find it at a local hobby shop that handles model railroad supplies. It comes in tubes, which makes it somewhat expensive, but it works very similar to Barge.
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One glue you might want to try for the seam and toe plug is Walther's Goo. It is available from Wm. Walthers in Milwaukee, WI, a major model railroad supplier. You may also find it at a local hobby shop that handles model railroad supplies. It comes in tubes, which makes it somewhat expensive, but it works very similar to Barge.
Thanks for that. There's a hobby shop nearby (20 miles) that may have it. I'll call them tomorrow and find out.
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My Good Marshall Will
Re glue for the plug, the only thing that comes to mind, actually used in theday, is
Liquid hide glue.
Never used it myself on keather, but it works a treat for furniture.
Problably will come out really stiff once dried.
Just a thought
Yhs
Prf mumbles
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That's a good suggestion, Prof. I've used hide glue before. It's quite easy to use and could work as a temporary measure.
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The edge profile is very like Hickok's holster. Good job.
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Thank you, Skeeter. I worked hard to get it close without compromising the fit of the pattern I already had. It would be nice to be able to measure an original.
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A coat of Skidmore’s and it’s done!
(https://i.imgur.com/4pBE18R.jpg)
The end result.
(https://i.imgur.com/CWuRJNd.jpg)
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A simple but elegant work of art!
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Thanks, John. It was a fun project. I like the cleaner ones from the era.
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Such a wonderful holster. The Slim Jim or California Style holster is prob. my most favorite pattern. Just so much you can do with one and they are just classic. Well done on the tutorial also.
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I punched “like” a number of times…
The complete holster and belt is simple but gorgeous!
I am saving this off to attempt to make a pair ( i hope they come out at least half as nice)
for my 1851’s doing reverse twist …
Yhs
Prof mumbles
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Thank you, Rube. The tutorial was fun. The Slim Jims are also my favorite for just what you mentioned about them being so versatile. I keep thinking I need to do an incised one some day.
Thanks, Prof. This one is a left side butt-forward but it could be used as a right strong side, too. My preference is to use one like that as a cross-draw rather than a reverse twist. I look forward to seeing yours. If you need any suggestions along the way, feel free to ask.
I'll put a link to this thread in our FAQ thread so it can be found easily.
OK, it's now in there as "Step-By-Step To Make A Hickock Slim Jim". (https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=13207.0)
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Thank you, Rube. The tutorial was fun. The Slim Jims are also my favorite for just what you mentioned about them being so versatile. I keep thinking I need to do an incised one some day.
Thanks, Prof. This one is a left side butt-forward but it could be used as a right strong side, too. My preference is to use one like that as a cross-draw rather than a reverse twist. I look forward to seeing yours. If you need any suggestions along the way, feel free to ask.
I'll put a link to this thread in our FAQ thread so it can be found easily.
OK, it's now in there as "Step-By-Step To Make A Hickock Slim Jim". (https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=13207.0)
I finally did the incised pair recently for my 72 Open Tops. Happy I did. I love the way they turned out.
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Marshal Wil,
Beautiful work and a great tutorial! I too favor the Slim Jim holsters as I have several Colt 1851 Navy revolvers, including an original (1856) and a Colt 2nd Generation.
I was wondering about your belts.
1. What thickness leather do you use for single layer belts?
2. When did multi-layer belts start being used and what thickness would be average?
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Marshal Wil,
Beautiful work and a great tutorial! I too favor the Slim Jim holsters as I have several Colt 1851 Navy revolvers, including an original (1856) and a Colt 2nd Generation.
I was wondering about your belts.
1. What thickness leather do you use for single layer belts?
2. When did multi-layer belts start being used and what thickness would be average?
Thanks. Cool that you have some original Colts. They're really like nothing else.
I use 8-9 oz leather for my belts, the same leather I generally use for my holsters. The first thing I do with a side of leather is strip off a couple belt blanks before starting to make anything else with it. I never line belts because I prefer a more flexible belt than you get with a lined or double layer belt. I also like to mold a belt to fit the person wearing it and that's much easier done with a single layer.
As to the timeline of belts, I'm not an expert here so don't take my words as fact. Maybe one of the more knowledgeable forum members here will chime in about this. I don't think lined or double layer belts were popular until the early 20th century. There may have been some lined belts made in the late 19th century but I haven't seen anything about them. There are examples of belts with cartridge loops early in the cartridge era but they were made of single layer leather. Money/cartridge belts seemed to be more common, probably because of the double purpose.
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What width do you usually use for your belts?
Do you use firm hand leather or something a little softer?
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I often make mine 1-3/4" with the ends tapered to fit a 1-1/4" buckle.
Not sure what you mean by" firm hand leather". I use the same leather I use for holsters.
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Great tutorial and I love the result. I've also done a holster tutorial and can greatly appreciate the work that goes into one. ;D
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Not sure what you mean by" firm hand leather". I use the same leather I use for holsters.
Will, “hand”, “temper”, “firmness”…all the same term. People in my Tandy store call it “hand”. I had to ask them what they meant. Just wanted to know if you used softer or stiffer leather for your belts.
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Great tutorial and I love the result. I've also done a holster tutorial and can greatly appreciate the work that goes into one. ;D
Thank you, Craig. Yeah, I could have made three holsters in the time it took to make the one and get the photos. It was all good fun, though.
Will, “hand”, “temper”, “firmness”…all the same term. People in my Tandy store call it “hand”. I had to ask them what they meant. Just wanted to know if you used softer or stiffer leather for your belts.
I wasn't familiar with that term. That's OK, though, I've noticed that the older I get, the amount of things I don't know increases. After I wet mold or shape a belt, it gets a little stiff so I add a couple coats of Skidmore's Leather Cream then work it some after it has soaked in to make it more limber. That makes a belt more comfortable. Even if I don't wet shape the belt, I do work it some. I don't start with softer leather though. It's exactly the same leather as I use in the holsters. Often the belt and holster come from the same side of leather.
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After I wet mold or shape a belt, it gets a little stiff so I add a couple coats of Skidmore's Leather Cream then work it some after it has soaked in to make it more limber. That makes a belt more comfortable. Even if I don't wet shape the belt, I do work it some. I don't start with softer leather though. It's exactly the same leather as I use in the holsters. Often the belt and holster come from the same side of leather.
Thanks, Will, In what way do you wet mold/shape a belt? I’ve wet molded holsters but not belts. Do you cut straight then curve them sort of like a Buscadero belt is cut curved?
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Thanks, Will, In what way do you wet mold/shape a belt? I’ve wet molded holsters but not belts. Do you cut straight then curve them sort of like a Buscadero belt is cut curved?
For the most part, this is correct. What I actually do is put a little curve to it so it fits a person's body without digging in at the hips. Some men don't need any curve. Women take a little more curve than men because their waists are proportionately narrower than their hips. If someone is going to wear it low on one side, you can put a little drop in it on the low side.
I wear double crossed belts for CAS. Here is the curve I put on the left side belt. It looks warbly but that's just the sunlight filtering through the trees above.
(https://i.imgur.com/HS8GZP9.jpg)
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Thanks Will. Looks interesting.
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What I try to accomplish is to give the belt the shape it would naturally achieve over time. No need to wait. ;D
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Good idea!