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Gunsmithing / Re: Why Oh Why 20" octagon Barrel
« Last post by Abilene on Today at 02:31:42 PM »
The shorter barrels started getting more popular due to CAS.  20" .357 '73's were all the rage for a while, then they started making 18" models which some switched to.  But that is only a part of the equation, especially since CAS is shrinking as far as new gun purchasers go.  The models for sale from the various importers is mostly customer driven.  They order what has been selling and what they have backorders for.  Looking historically at inventory and orders from Cimarron, there have been a more or less equal number of 24" barrels ordered versus 20", except for .357's which trend more to the shorter.  The prices are the same regardless of barrel length, so for used 24" to be higher priced than 20" is just an anomaly, IMO.  Because you happen to be looking for something that seems to be harder to find right now is just random variation, I would say.  Keep looking!  And if you are looking for a new gun, get on the backorder list of as many importers as you can while you continue looking for available deals.
28 here, not sure what was going on last night about Midnite, Staters, Sherriff, Cops and who knows what else, helly copter.  Listened to the scanner, didn't get much but murder suspect.  Truck driver friend weth through earlier said they were a bunch waiting for something on I-80, got two on the loose from Kearney.
Gunsmithing / Why Oh Why 20" octagon Barrel
« Last post by Black River Smith on Today at 01:57:07 PM »
If this is posted in the wrong section I will move it.  Thought it would be better here than in the Gun Review section

Please explain to me.... why a Rifle Design (Creasent buttplate; full forearm ending in a nosecap; and octagon barrel) with a 20" barrel length (instead of traditional 24") has become so popular and the mainstay production for most manufactures/suppliers?

On Gunbroker people have Cimarron 1866's in 38/40 with mainly 20" barrels.  Also, on Gunbroker there is a 1 of 500 NEW 1892 in 38/40 with a 20" barrel (don't know the manufacturer on this one).

I am looking for a traditional Rifle in 38/40 with 24" barrel and a lot of what I am see are 20" in what is my price range.  Yes, I do see the ones with 24" on Gunbroker but way too high for my blood and interests.

What gives with all the 20" Rifles now-a-days?  Is it only because of the 10-round limit imposed by many states?

Thanks for the general comments.
The Leather Shop / Re: Brill/Heiser Hybrid
« Last post by Capt Quirk on Today at 01:12:38 PM »
You're getting paid way better than I am...
I have two of them.  I’d let one go for what I have in it.  I live in OKC, may not be too far from you.
The Darksider's Den / Re: 45 Colt BP question
« Last post by greenjoytj on Today at 09:40:15 AM »
I did not want the wrong (44-40) headstamp on my brass that will be used in my 45 Colt chambered Win/Miroku M73 or Ruger NV’s.  So  I choose to learn to anneal my 45 Colt brass.

Annealing proved to me that it works, blow back was stoped.  No blackening down the case sides.
Cases do still feel slightly lube slimed the ejection is an easy push of the revolvers ejector rod.

First don’t use Starline brass, it excellent bass for smokeless powder use which I’ve segregated to smokeless use only.
It is very strong tough brass, still I anneal it for use with smokeless.

I did use Starline brass with 35 gr. charges of GOEX then moved on to Old Eynsford brand  2fg but even at this charge level Starline brass really allowed a lot of blow back.  So I anneal it and blow back of black soot stopped.  I tried 3fg but the rifle liked 2fg better so I just buy 2fg for simplicity of inventory.

Now I have been using Hornady and Winchester brass but both brand must still be annealed.
My technique for annealing 45 Colt brass is to use:

Cordless drill - for its speed control and in case it is accidentally dropped (into water bucket).
13mm deep socket - to hold the 45 Colt case.
An adapter to convert the square drive socket to quarter inch hex to fit the drill chuck.
5 gallon plastic pail.  A white or orange colour work best.
Propane torch.
Work bench with a vice mounted on the end of the bench.
A room to work in that can have the lights turned off.
Anneal in a dark room.

Half fill the bucket with cold tap water.
Cold water removes the heat from the brass quickly before it migrates too far down the case.

Clamp the propane torch in the vice,  gently don’t crush the cylinder just to hold it securely so it doesn’t fall out while lit and set your house ablaze.

Assemble the socket to adapter to drill.

Light the torch reduce the torch flame to a medium small flame.

Turned off the room lights, work in light provided only by the torch flame.
This is so you can see the subtle colour changes while the brass is heating.

Put a case into the socket, about 15mm of case neck sticks out unshielded in my deep socket.

Spin up the drill and put the case neck into the torch flame.

I like to heat the case neck until it glows a dull red colour.
This only takes a few seconds I go by colour rather than a exact second of time.

I have heated the necks a much hotter bright red till it spat zinc sparks.  That much heat is not required.
It didn’t hurt the case at all, other than the case neck looks a bit pink later when the water is dried off.

These over heated cases maybe the the one that sealed off blow back the best.
The point is, how much heat is not that critical as long as you try to take all the case to the same heat level so the metal is softened to about the same degree.

Tumbling the pink necks cases in polishing media restored the golden brass look.

As soon as the case glow a dull red colour tip the case down so it slides out of the socket into the cold water bucket to sizzle and cool.

Repeat for each case you want to anneal.

Don’t over heat the socket I dip it in the bucket to keep it coolish and dry it.

Dry the cases on a towel.

Log how many firing and re-sizing cycles it takes to work harden again and develop your first split case mouth.  I’m still case cycle counting.
Anneal the batch of cases again to save them from further splitting.
In the future anneal the batch of cases again 3 firing re-sizing cycles sooner to prevent any further case mouth splits.

Annealing works wonders.

STORM / Re: Ammo for Conversions
« Last post by Coffinmaker on Today at 09:04:42 AM »

 :)  Hi Again Pappy  ;)

I can only answer part of your question.  I do know the Hi Tech coating used is some form of Polymer.  I also shoot Polymer coated bullets in my handguns and Rifle.  I use APP 3F exclusively as it doesn't require any form of lubrication.

In current production .44s, the manufacturers have settled on a modern industry standard of .429"  For a .429 bore, a .430 Bullet is optimum and Hard Cast bullets work quite well.

Almost forgot, I use to chide my fellow shooters about "Lipstick" bullets (red) and then I started shooting lipsticks myself.  Coated bullets work quite well in cowboy guns.  With a CAVEAT:  Not so Bueno with BP.
Morning y'all.
Coffee and tea are hot.

'Tis -4 and sunny. WC -14. High of 12.

38° this morning headed to 55°,
I think I'll go out back when to warms up some, and put some rounds through the
Zastava M57
hopes for your fast recovery  :)
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