Special Interests - Groups & Societies > Uberti, Pietta and other SAA Clones

Light strikes with my new Cimarron/Uberti Model P

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Oregon Bill:
First time out with my new Model P in .44 Special, a dozen out of the first 50 rounds fired did not ignite, showing light primer strikes. They eventually went off when I tried two or three times. Very strange and troubling. I sent an email to Cimarron explaining the issue and asking what the hammer spring weight might be with the thought of buying and installing a heavier Wolff spring. Here was the reply:

"Your email has been received by the orders department this morning and has been forwarded to me.  First, I want to thank you for being an owner of one of our Cimarron Firearms.  I'm sorry to hear that you are having an issue with the light strikes.  It sounds like that the issue is going to be with the transfer bar. 

As for the weight on the factory mainspring, I personally do not know that off hand!!  The gunsmith advised that the "WOLFF SPRINGS" have different weights.

I talked to our gunsmith and he suggested that you take it back out and shoot it again, but when pulling the trigger, keep your finger on the trigger and pull it all the way back.  He is saying that your gun is a Model P, it will have the transfer bar in it and that the trigger has to be pulled all the way back so it can engage.

Please try that and then email or give me a call to let me know what it does!!"


Well, I took it back to the range and attempted to focus on the trigger and did manage to reduce the light strikes to about one in 20. But I have never had a single action revolver where pulling the trigger and dropping the hammer was "not good enough." Has anyone else experienced this with a recent Model P?
When it was working, I found my .44 Russian loads to be more accurate than my .44 Specials. Love the Russian!

Abilene:
Well, the response sounds a little off to me.  I mean, the Model P does not have a transfer bar.  Yes, the pre-war guns have that 3-click retractable firing pin safety, but I've certainly never heard it referred to as a transfer bar.   Cheyenne Logan recently posted about his son's new Model P having the issue of needing to pull the trigger all the way back instead of just squeezing until the break.  But if yours still has the issue somewhat when changing your technique, then to me it is defective. 

Hopefully they will fix it for you.  If you want to spend some money to make it like it should be, you can buy the old-style hammer and trigger from Taylors or Long Hunter (those vendors have the best price) and turn it back into a 4-click gun. 

Keep us informed.  Good luck.

Oregon Bill:
Thanks Abilene. They offered to take it back to repair. I'll shoot it again tomorrow to double check function.

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Oregon Bill:
Well, the Model P shot great yesterday. Only had 40 rounds -- 30 of .44 Russian and 10 .44 Special. No trigger issues or light strikes. I am beginning to wonder if it just needed some breaking in.
I have to say I am simply delighted by the accuracy of this revolver. Any time old Bill can hit the four-inch flapper five out of five at 20 yards one-handed off hind legs is a good day in my book.   8)

Cholla Hill Tirador:
If yours is one of the 3-click examples, you HAVE to stay on the trigger. This is known as follow-through and is one.of the fundamentals of good accuracy.

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