Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
Special Interests - Groups & Societies => The Barracks => Topic started by: Lord Eoin MacKenzie on January 21, 2015, 05:00:19 PM
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I am acquiring a 7mm Rolling block and the buttstock should be replaced. Also would it allowed if I have to get the barrel rebored to 8MMx57 to cleanup the rifling?.
The stock has the BATJACK production stamp and it would more period with a replacement stock .
I have limited Internet at home so that is why I have to ask Y'all normally searchable questions.
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Caliber substitutions are allowed. We would not hold the "Batjack" against you. You do know that's John Waynes Production company?
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That is why I want to replace/save the stock. Maybe I'll pick up the other RB the shop has. $450.
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Try Precision Gun Works for reproduction wood, and Rollingblockparts.com for parts. I'd try S & S Firearms as well. I shot a Navy Rolling Block at a Muster a couple of years ago. Great guns!
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If you want a shooter, I'd think a John Wayne fan would give you enough for that gun to let you get what you want.
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Now figure out which movie it was used in? Probably one in Mexico, like "Big Jake", etc.
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Bet it wasn't "The Conquerer".
RCJ
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You had to go bring that stinker up! "I greet you, my Mother! Yikes!
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I probably will be leaving the RB rifle alone. $225 for an unfitted stock. Rifle only cost me $450. I might pick up the Bubba'd Krag carbine instead of trying to "fix" the Rolling Block. Action seems OK
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I now have the 7mm Rollingblock at home, along with a Remington Marked Bayonet.
Put the Bubbaded Krag Carbine on layaway.
I will need a Rear site assembly, and rear upper handguard. and Front site assembly for the Krag.
Maybe a stock, unless I can cover the recoil pad with a leather cover.
Where is a good place for Krag parts.
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www.ssfirearms.com
Roll over "gunparts" you'll find a whole section of Krag Parts, everything you need right there.
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If you need a stock: http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetail?ItemCode=4M2381V1W317
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Thanks for the info. Now to find 30-40 brass for me and a friend., he has the reloading dies and casting equipment.
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I now have an 1895 Chilean Mauser Rifle to feed. Along with figuring out if it would fit in a Boer war, or Mexican setting. Or in a SAW setting?
Now to recycled the Norma match brass for GAF loads.
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The 1895 Chilean Mauser is an excellent ringer for the Spanish 1893. And will be accepted as such should you ask. Makes a dandy pickup in Cuba or the Phillipines.
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Check with Dixie Gun Works...99.95 for a butt stock.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default.php?cPath=22_95_407_409
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The 1895 Mauser was also seen in South Africa and in Mexico, so yes to all three scenarios! (I now find myself interested in small ring Mausers . . .)
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That's always the problem with research............it usually makes me want something else!
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I have the same problem, and usually it makes me want something new, when I haven't finished the last project.
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My problem exactly! (I really need to just show some discipline and FINISH a few!)
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What is this Discipline you speak of?
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I'm not really sure. Just a vague concept I heard about once!
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http://www.ssfirearms.com/search.asp?nobox=&scat=&stext=rolling+block&stype=&sprice=&pg=1
or
http://www.rollingblockparts.com
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Now for a simple question...What is the easiest method for cleaning old bores, (Rolling Block 7mm) and removing cosmoline in my Mausers bores and other metal. I have various cleaning fluids and Brake cleaner. Is oven cleaner still a valid method? I will be cleaning outside if needed for vapor control Or fan in shop door.
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I'm sure you'll get different answers, but I always just cleaned cosmoline with gasoline. Use a soft scrub brush you don't mind ruining, and just start scrubbing. You can put small parts in a can full of gas. Once you get most of it off, you can clean with normal solvents. Kroil is an excellent bore cleaner, as well as the best penetrating oil there is. I don't know that I'd use oven cleaner, as it can take finish off things you don't want it off of. If you want to get oil out of a stock, remove all the metal, wait until a good hot summer day, and cover your pickup dash with paper towels. (Lots of them, you don't want oil on your dash.) Close the windows and let the sun heat up the stock. The oil will start oozing out, so just mop it up with more paper towels. That should get you started at least!
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Just to be clear, only use the gasoline OUTSIDE, and AWAY FROM SPARKS OR FLAMES! Sorry if I'm offending anyone's intelligence here, but I thought I'd better throw that out. Also, I forgot to mention, get a Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner. It looks like very coarse steel wool, but it won't hurt bluing. I've never found anything better for scrubbing off rust and petrified grease.
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A less automotive alternative to the truck dash method is to wrap the stock in paper towels, then place it in a Black trash bag, seal it up and set it out in the sun. Works amazingly well. May have to change out the paper towels a few times, depending on how much oil is in the stock.
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Never thought of that, but it sounds like it would work!
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Finally got the 1898 Krag yesterday.
It looks like the stock is still usable ( for GAF) after the recoil pad is removed.
I need to remove the Williams rear site off the barrel and the Lyman Band front site. I need to Order OEM stock sites and handguard, along with brass. I think I have an 03 front site in my misc. pile. Maybe use that..
A local club has Vintage rifle shoots. 100yds and use GAF loads? Now I have a Rolling block, 7mm. Chilean 1895 in .308, and now a Krag for SAW. Now to clean everything and oil to store.
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The Trail Boss loads are amazingly consistent. I've shot some of my best 100 yard groups with them. They seem to hold up quiet well to 200 yards as well, once you figure out the sight settings. I've recently been shooting the Lee 312-155 bullet, it feeds and shoots better than my 200 grainers, and is well suited for a slightly oversize bore.
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I finally got some 7mmM ammo and dies.
I will pull down the Factory ammo and reload to starting charges for safety.
I have numerous powders, both rifle and pistol, and BP; but no Trailboss.