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The Leather Shop / Re: Copper Rivets
« Last post by Rube Burrows on October 24, 2021, 08:16:13 AM »
I use the  Size 9 Copper Rivet & Burr Setter ..leave about 3/32 or 1/8 proud,  once I set then the rivet  I use the mushroom rose to expand, and just one light hit with a a hammer to put a flat on the rose...

Not sure I'm explaining all that well  :-\

That is what I use also. I cut the shank off to about 1/8" and then us the tool to mushroom it out. If I had a small anvil or something more sturdy I could get a better and more uniformed mushroom like on blue jeans because when the rivet is where I can get to it on the anvil of my vise it works perfect. When I have to improvise its not as neat.

My hardest thing is finding a proper cutting tool that will actually do the job of cutting the number 9 rivet. I have tried three different cutting tools and none work well. The one I have now cuts it but I have to put a large pair of channel locks on them to be able to squeeze the cutting tool enough to cut the bur.
Tall Tales / Re: October Cawfee,Tea, Soup and chili
« Last post by Silver Creek Slim on October 24, 2021, 07:56:17 AM »
Morning y'all.
Coffee and tea are ready.

'Tis 22 and cloudy. High of 50.

The American Plainsmen Society / Re: Hawken Rifles
« Last post by Niederlander on October 24, 2021, 06:09:44 AM »
That's a REALLY nice rifle, Grant!  How much does it weigh?
BROW / Re: Rem No 1 Sporting rifle - Serial Number Range
« Last post by Drydock on October 24, 2021, 05:16:53 AM »
Can't be done.  Remington records of that era were lost/destroyed/never kept to begin with.  Military RBs can be roughly dated by contract, but if this started out as a military action the info was lost in the conversion.

You might enquire at
Dale, if you are looking for a reasonably authentic looking half-stock "Hawken-style" rifle, I would highly recommend trying to find an early-production Lyman "Great Plains" rifle.  As I recall, they were actually made in Japan by Miroku (... who made one of the best-sparking and reliiable reproduction Brown Bess muskets, ever ...).  The .50 percussion one that I had for a fair number of years had a browned barrel and all the other metal furniture was browned, as well, and I loved it. 

Although still offered, the less desirable current-production Lyman Great Plains is made by Pedersoli, with blued (or "blackened") barrel and furniture.  I have seen a number of lfairly unfavourable comments and reviews of them.
The Leather Shop / Re: Copper Rivets
« Last post by Major 2 on October 24, 2021, 12:19:01 AM »
I use the  Size 9 Copper Rivet & Burr Setter ..leave about 3/32 or 1/8 proud,  once I set then the rivet  I use the mushroom rose to expand, and just one light hit with a a hammer to put a flat on the rose...

Not sure I'm explaining all that well  :-\
The American Plainsmen Society / Re: Hawken Rifles
« Last post by RattlesnakeJack on October 24, 2021, 12:05:27 AM »
I must concur with the sentiments generally expressed so far ... the "Hawken" name gets applied altogether too much, and to guns which don't look anything like a real Hawken rifle ...perhaps the worst case in point being the long-produced, but basically "gaudy" Thompson/Center "Hawken" ... I will freely admit to having one for a while, but ultimately "wised up" and went to a Lyman "Great Plains" rifle, which I then used for quite a few years.  Much more authentic appearance ... besides, they didn't call it a "Hawken" anyway ...

Regretfully, I disposed of the Lyman some years back when I gravitated out of shooting muzzleloaders  ... retaining only my .50 Dixie Tennessee Mountain Rifle (flint/percussion convertible), my Miroku Brown Bess and my Parker-Hale P'1853 rifle.   

However, some time after that... but still several years ago ... a chap I know was disposing of a rifle he had received in a trade, or some such, which was much too "beefy" for him to enjoy handling and shooting, offered to me at a price I absolutely could not refuse - a custom-made .62 cal. Hawken-style rifle, with a full octagon barrel 1⅛" across the flats, complete with a .60 roundball mould.  It is truly a thing of beauty, but now I must make another embarrasing admission: although I have owned it now for several years, I have never gotten around to casting any ball, and thus have never fired it! (At 6' 4" and weighing in at over 21 stone  (... 1 stone = 14 pounds ... you do the math ...) I find this rifle quite pleasant to handle ... although I'd definitely want a horse if I had to carry it very far!)

 :-\ ::) :-\  ::)

Mind you, I was at the range the other day with a long-time friend from those muzzle-loading days ... who also pretty much gave up shooting front-stuffers at the same time I did, when we both transitioned heavily into Cowboy Action shooting ... and we were talking about dusting off the old girls and giving it another whirl.  (Dale: in fact, that would be Merle "Squirrel" Krause, who you will remember accompanying me to Muster, second-kast time I was able to come, who was so enamoured of your Krag that you let him shoot in the Long Range ...)

Weather forecast here is for pleasant, but a little on the cool side, for the next week or so ... and I am very seriously considering a bullet casting session ... in which case that .60RB mould will definitely come out!
The Darksider's Den / Re: Breech fouling in 45-60
« Last post by Win 1876 on October 23, 2021, 11:06:14 PM »
 Thanks to everyone for their input. I will try changing variables such as alloy, lube,  and primer and will post back my results just in case someone had the same problem in the future.

-win 1876
The Leather Shop / Copper Rivets
« Last post by Marshal Will Wingam on October 23, 2021, 09:37:32 PM »
Until now, I've set copper rivets with a small ball peen hammer but am looking for a cleaner way to install them.

Does anyone know what a properly installed copper rivet should look like? I tried bucking one with my aircraft rivet gun and got this. The burr looks too dished to me. Also it started to go off to the side and it was impossible to get it straight after that. I had about 1-1/2 diameters of the rivet shank protruding above the burr. I think that was a little long so it took a lot of working to get it set.

Any feedback on how these should be?

Gunsmithing / Re: Oversized and/or worn chamber?
« Last post by willy on October 23, 2021, 09:00:34 PM »
Thanks for the reply, Willy.
It's stamped 38-40 on the barrel and rounds go through the bore.  I cannot put a bullet into the muzzle.  The diameter of the bullets are 0.401" and the 44-40 bore diameter I think is 0.427"?  I'm quite sure it's a 38-40.  What is the diameter of the neck of a 44-40 after it's been fired?

After firing the case neck will match whatever the chamber is..
I have no idea why the chamber is so large on a 38/40 . Even if someone thought about converting the gun to 44/40 the barrel would have been removed  and rebored or lined when the chamber was cut.
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