Rumors on FB was people had to clean frost off their windshields this morning.

Riley and I made a recon and the situation has taken care of itself. 

It's now 48 and sunny.

Morning y'all.
Coffee and tea are hot.

Monthly systems outage today. Heading to verk in a bit.

'Tis 31 and clear. First frost of the season. High of 54 and sunny.

Slim

Did not see any mention of the 22 rimfire automatics. That is maybe the only Ruger product I care about. I don't own one currently but maybe a bull barrel 22...........

Got 1911 guts all over my desk, decided to finish one before starting on the next one.   

Fitting an Ed Brown long trigger, shit that is easy, just a steady hand, a good eye and most important a big black magic marker.

I hate to admit that coach guns don't do anything for me, but cut down over/ unders are kinky as all heck.

  Ruger popularity goes back to the very beginning of SASS/CAS.  The first ever matches were shot primarily with Ruger Blackhawks, Colts and a smattering of Great Western.

In point of "what-when" the "judge" shot a Blackhawk and his hat was a Fedora.  General Grant of EMF was touting the Great Westerns of course.  Initially SASS/CAS was about a dozen players whom never envisioned "their" little game going where it went.  Kinda ran away with 'em.

Good thing I got lots of Blackhawks, tho most are OM's.

Welcome, SolidLeadSlug:

There is a SSS masthead section, Spencer Oft Requested Info ("SORI"), which includes a trove of useful info.

Specifically to your questions:

Your "sleeved" barrel should not have grooves that are slightly deeper, progress shallower from the chamber to muzzle.  In taper groove bores, dead pure, not mystery metal, seems to be more functionally accurate.  In those with no taper, an alloy of pure lead and pure tin known as NEW Lyman #2 with approx 16BHn is better. Between them, the as-cast bullet OD will vary .001" with pure having more linear shrinkage.  Rotometals supplies either.

Using cut-down 50-70 cases with the proper rim OD for the blade extractor engagement, removes the factory annealing. They must be adequately re-annealed to prevent neck cracking, which will otherwise occur over as few as two-four firing's. If you wish, please PM me with your email address and I'll send a file about this.

The rounds might tolerate finger seating and uncrimped bullets, but crimp helps prevent bullet creep and tipping during cycling.  Compressed charges should not exceed 1/16", and I have not found compression helpful. Uncompressed charges of traditional black powder are ample for target and hunting.  Compressed charges do not appear more accurate. Neither are wads under a 56-50 bullet. Thin beeswax wads under some 56-56 bullets, with NO AIR SPACE, have helped the heeled design.  Avoid damaged bullet base edges.

Your original receiver was designed for traditional black powder. Some "substitutes" can be significantly stronger. 

Avoid initially cycling unloaded, fully formed dummy test cartridges.  Instead, finger test fit only the case with extractor AHEAD of the rim. If case not sticking, then gently feel for resistance as you close the block, and same with an empty dummy.  Forcefully testing can JAM a fat cartridge and involve frustration to clear it. Cycle testing dummies will produce normal nicks on bullet noses and can loosen bullets in crimps. My cycling dummies last two-three cyclings from the magazine before I file the nicks and reset crimps.   

Oh, if possible, please post clear close-up photo's of your treasure.  The immediate past Thread includes some.  Thanks.

All the best,
El Supremo/Kevin Tinny

Morning y'all.
Coffee and tea are hot.

A meet in the rain is always fun. My hat is still wet.

'Tis 52 and partly cloudy. "Blustery. Cloudy. Showers likely in the morning. Highs in the lower 50s. North wind 15 to 25 mph with gusts to around 35 mph. Chance of rain 70 percent."

Slim