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I ended up putting some "Mentado" hammers on my Vaqueros a while back. After 30 years of throwing steel around, my hands are pretty beat up. Age does a job on our bodies. Same reason I have gone from shooting "Duelist" to two handed, and now I have to be going to a Crossdraw rig. My right shoulder has been repaired, and my left needs to be replaced. If I want to keep shooting I have to "Improvise and adapt" to persavere.........

BROW / Re: Some thoughts on a new sport
« Last post by Mogorilla on Today at 10:28:19 AM »
Just found this old thread.    Drydock is correct, this is a close description to the KVC Buffalo Shoot, where Drydock distinguished himself.    We are planning it again for October.   Keep an eye on NCOWS board for announcements the closer we get.   

Here is the camp.
STORM / Re: Turned down hammers on Open Tops-Like to see pics, how to
« Last post by 45 Dragoon on Today at 09:56:29 AM »
I too .  .  .  was gonna leave this un alone  till now  .  .  .
Gotta agree with thuther Mike about "bent hammers"  ( just personal). OK, now I'm done.    ;D

The Barracks / Re: Department of the Atlantic Muster
« Last post by Snake Oil on Today at 09:41:15 AM »
Is there anyone wanting or planning to come to the Department of the Atlantic muster that hasn't sent a form in yet?
 :)  No Horse  ;)

I was going to leave this one alone as I don't care for "bent" hammers.  Personal Opine, don't take it personal.  Just Business (stolen famous movie line).

Also, Knarley Bob and the Perfesser have you on the right track.

Butt, before you do ANYTHING to your Richards/Mason, first clean up and correctly FIT the Barrel to Arbor and refit the Wedge if necessary.

Yes, Auntie Ethel, People are Hazardous to Yer Health

I like to use good old fashion automotive leaf and coil spring steel.
This is an excellent high carbon steel that can be used for a wide variety of implements
From knives to tongs, cold chisels, hot chisels, pry bars, and, well even springs!

It all depends on the tempering.

To harden generic carbon steel heat entire part (knife, hammer, whatever) until steel is

For most common carbon steels this is at orange-red in a dim workshop.

Yellow is too hot, too close to burning the carbon out of the steel.

If you see sparks, that is the carbon burning out… bad juju

Once it is orange red ( a lot of folks use a magnet on a wire handle, its more accurate)

From orange red, Quickly quench in the appropriate fluid … usually oil .
There are also water quench steels, air quench steels, etc etc.

This hardens the steel . At this point it is  uniformly brittle all the way thru.
The next step , you need to “temper” the item. For knives I like to have a harder edge and a softer
Spine so I gently heat the spine of the knife and watch the rainbow collors run towards the edge,
Stopping where I want it. By quenching it once more. Other folks go by strict temperature and the entire knife has a uniform Hardeness, like most factory knives.

IF you are not concerned about the hardness of the hammers spur, one can let it cool slowly in the air
Or wait until it fades to about black “black heat” and dump in water to just cool quickly.

Quenching at black heat does nothing for hardness as the austentite ( carbon crystaline structure) has to be nonmagnetic is order to align the structure (making it hard) and the fast quench sort of freezes the alignment in place.

Many ancient smiths (and some modern ones) insist on quenching a knife or sword horizontally and aligning
It with magnetic north, the theory being that this enhances the magnetic alignemtn of the austentite
At the moment of quenching.

There is also “normalizing”  in which you bring steel up to red-orange then bury it in ashes to let it cool slowly, making the steel deliberatelly soft for ease of cutting and filing.

It is handy when forging, if one is as unskilled as I am, I forge it as far as I can, then normalize for easy finish work, then heat treat. My several mentors were so skilled they would forge an item to the final shape
With no filing or grinding needed, except for final fitting!

Lastly, most C&B revolver hammers I have played with were only case hardened for the important bits.
One wants to protect this around the wear parts and the cock and half cock notches, etc.
Hope this helps
STORM / Re: Turned down hammers on Open Tops-Like to see pics, how to
« Last post by 1961MJS on Yesterday at 11:52:42 PM »

With Respect to heat treating, I READ UP on using the material removal method of shaping a knife.  When you're done, you heat the knife to red hot, quench it in oil making it brittle, wipe the oil off without starting a fire, and then heat the knife in an oven for a few hours at somewhere between 250 and 400 degrees F to temper the steel.

Is this in any way related to what needs to be done to the hammer?

Howdy Rossi Fans,

After a misspent childhood watching cowboy movie and TV shows I had to go for an older (no offensive safety) carbine in .45 Colt. It's nowhere as smooth and fast as my 66's. I don't use it much in CAS because I shoot CC, but I just love it and wouldn't part with it.

Rev. Chase
STORM / Re: Turned down hammers on Open Tops-Like to see pics, how to
« Last post by Professor Marvel on Yesterday at 09:14:39 PM »
Greetings My good Netizens

My 2 bits, and fyi , i not only did not sleep at a holiday inn, i did not sleep at all last night LOL

K Bob is on the right track!

Ok, firstly, as an amateur knifemaker/blacksmith my advice is a SMALL torch, like a Mapp torch with a pinpoint flame.

 Second, aluminum jaws on a bench vice. Only let the hammer spur stick up. Draws the heat from the rest of the hammer bits.

Apply the oinpoint flame at the base of the spur. At red/orange start your bend.
Try to do it in one go.
If you make a little templet / guide to hold next to the spurr you will know how far to go.

When bent to happiness, DO go ahead and plop it in room temp water.
By that time it will be at “black heat”  and it should not get brittle, but you are protecting the rest
of the hammer from having the heat treat adversely affected.

Remmeber, this is a small part, it does not need a big mongo torch.

Hope this helps

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