Trailing side of the bolt? You mean the side that doesn't do the stopping?
I thunk anymore that the bolt legs of the new/replacement bolts tend to be a little long and may need a little removed from the end that needs rounded and smoothed some. You know... so the bolt doesn't stay on the hammers cam too long and hit the leading edge of the cylinder notch and peen it down or if the bolt head is too wide then peens both edges of the cylinder notch.
It's nice when he bolt fits the bolt window in the frame and the cylinder notches and then shows good alignment with the bore of the barrel. When down sizing the bolt head you want to know which way to move the cylinder to be in alignment with the bore of the barrel. You know.....take a little off the proper side of the bolt to keep it aligning the chamber with the bore. Or just figure a little off one way or the other can be taken care of by the forcing cone in the breech end of the barrel.
It can be a little tricky fitting a new bolt.
At times something needs done to get the bolts leg closer to the hammers cam so the bolt moves out of the notch completely soon enough to let the hand turn the cylinder with out the hand and the bolt fighting each other and hanging up the action a little.
Fitting a bolt needs multiple things attended to or checked out. Single actions can throw the demons of hell into your world. Like for instance when someone wonders which finger of a new pawl to fit first and sooner or later thunks it thru and realizes the first thing to check for proper fit is the bolt.
You know.....who wants to time a new pawl to a worn bolt?
My hound dog is barking and growling at the front door again. Better go see if it's a home invader or a danged racoon again. Those danged coons eating the cat food all the time. Life can be so cruel at times.