Lining Holsters?

[Tommy tornado]

Well I tried making my first lined leather holster.  It didn't turn out so well.  I tried following the only instructions I had Making Holsters by AL Stohlman.  When it came time to wet mold the gun my lining bunched up at the base of the holster.  So I am back to the drawing board.  I was using 3 to 4 oz. veg-tanned cowhide split.  Now for the question.  Next time should I leave the bottom unstitched put the holster together and stitch the base after wet-molding?  Or should I completely stitch the top and wet the leather and pull it tight towards the bottom.  Then come back and glue/stitch the bottom into place.  Like I said on my first attempt everything looked good until I put the pistol in the holster to wet mold it.  Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Sounds like the lining wasn't firmly stuck to the outer layer. I always glue my lining to the other piece and hammer it to get a solid bonding with the glue before forming the holster. I've never had the lining bunch up at the bottom when I wet mold it. This may give a very slight creasing of the lining material, but that doesn't matter because the wet molding will fit the pistol to it beautifully. I don't know how others do it but they may have some better ideas.

I wouldn't give up on it yet. Take the stitching out and lay the holster out flat, wetting if needed. Remove the lining and start with a new lining.

The hardest one I had to make was two layers of 3-4oz with rawhide between for a stiffener. Won't ever try that again. I got a great holster, but the outer layer is loose on the lining because the rawhide shrank more than the bridle leather and the glue didn't stick to the rawhide well. Left it a little lumpy looking. In addition, I had to soak the whole thing in a bucket for half a day to get the rawhide so it would bend around because the water didn't penetrate the glue layer very well.

[Kid Cavalier]

What Marshal Wingam said.
Glue the lining to the face while both are flat and roll or hammer to get a good bond(hammer carefully so you don't leave marks)
Stitch all the edges except the main welt.
finish all edges except the main welt while flat.
Wet the leather slightly (Not too wet, it shouldn't squish)
Fold over and stitch the main welt.
Wet fit and form the pouch.
Trim the Welt.
Finish the welt off with your prefered edge finish.
Treat with oil after finishing the edges(it keeps the oil from penetrating too heavy around the edge)

Kid

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[Tommy tornado]

Thanks for the advice.  Is there any particular glue that you suggest?  Also do you fold over the lining to attach one half and then lay it flat after gluing the lining down.  Big Al's book shows this

[Marshal Will Wingam]

The best glue I've found is Barge all purpose cement. There are a couple that are similar, but I've had the best luck with Barge. There are a couple different ones, too. There is an environmentally friendly version that won't hold anything so stay away from that.

I lay one piece flat then start on one side and roll the leather onto the other piece. After it is all stuck, use a cobbler's hammer to secure the bond. Since you can't shift it after you start the process, cut the llining a little oversized and trim it afterwards.

[Slowhand Bob]

Hmmm, I added to this and the other post on leather lining and they never came up, oh well.  I use one of the white glues, either Fiebings or Tanners bond.  They hold well and are faster and easier to apply.

[Kid Cavalier]

Cut your lining over-sized as the good Marshal said.
Lay one edge of the face to the lining after applying glue to both surfaces.
gently roll the rest of the face down to ensure an even bond(no air bubbles)
trim the lining.

Barge glue is good, it will hold forever.  For a little more forgiving glue, try unitac white glue.  If you screw up you can separate the pieces and relay them.  careful when oiling with unitac.  too much oil will react with the glue and you'll get a sticky ooze bleeding from the edges.

[E.R.Beaumont]

Howdy Pards
Tommy, Pard I don't mean to sound harsh I know that you are just starting out and just want to save you from having a lot of usless leather in a box out back.  Also not everyone who works in a leather shop knows what it takes to make good holsters. You gotta use better leather to line with. Unless it is chrome tanned that split is just a slice from the "flesh" side into the flesh side.  It was probably cut from the belly, anyway the stuff is so soft that all the grit will get inbedded and rub the finish off your gun like sandpapper.  The stuff has the body of a wet wash cloth it will tear, you might as well line with canvas. 

The reason some folks line with pig skin is that the stuff is thin about 2oz and strong.  Real calf skin is a very good thin liner, it will be about 4oz and strong, it is also excelent for bullit loops.  The Kid has stated that he likes a 7oz body and a 5oz liner.  That equals 12oz that was the match up that John Bianchi used on his Vidio.  I think of that as a minimum.  I like to make the holsters stiff enough that the guns "snap" into them but that is just me.

You don't as a rule want to use chrome taned for the liner, as the salts used to tan the leather can be corrosive over time. You do not want to store a gun in direct contact with a chrome taned anything.

Regards, Beaumont

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[Tommy tornado]

Thanks for the informative post E. R. Beaumont, I definiately am still learning.  At the moment I was using the veg-tanned split because of cost and it gives me the chance to experiment without wasting a bunch of more expensive calf-skin. 

Could I use the veg-tanned split if I used Gum Trac. on the inside and gave it a good rub down?

Is it ok to have a chrome-tanned outside shell with a calf/pigskin lining?  or would you still have the salt effect happen through the lining?

[Tommy tornado]

Hmmm, I added to this and the other post on leather lining and they never came up, oh well.  I use one of the white glues, either Fiebings or Tanners bond.  They hold well and are faster and easier to apply.

I went out and bought some of the Tanners bond.  Apparently, you have to have a tax number or be an established business to buy Barge from Tandy Leather.  I just do this for fun therefore it is Tanners bond for me.