Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L
Special Interests - Groups & Societies => SCORRS => Topic started by: Tuolumne Lawman on June 18, 2019, 09:21:25 AM
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I really, really love the 8" with the gated and the ejector rod. VERY 1869ish. I love it being a 5 shot like the original .46 rim fire conversions.
(https://i.imgur.com/A3vxVlw.jpg)
The 5.5 Pale Rider is great, but I really want a loading port on it. Problem is, you can't mount a Kirst ejector rod on a 5.5" because the barrel ram latch lug is too close to remove the cylinder pin. I've been working on a fix for Walt, but haven't come up with one.
I think the easiest is to get another 8". I already have another gated headed my way. If I go with another 8" gated, I'll probably sell off the Pale Rider and 5.5" as I already have an Uberti 1860 .45 conversion as a back up revolver. SCORRS will be the first to know.....
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You changing your line up. ??? imagine that ! ;D
only person I know with more acute gunitus ....might be me :-\
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LOL! At least I am sticking with Remingtons..... There is something so 1869 about the 5 shot Kirst with an ejector rod. It reminds me of the first cartridge conversion I ever handled in about 1995. It was a NMA in 5 shot .46 rim fire. It had an ejector, so it was probably a 2nd model.... That started my cartridge conversion revolver-itus!
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I listed the Kirst Pale Rider on SASS Wire fro $280 shipped. It won't totally cover the gated I have ordered, but will help. I also listed the 1858 Pietta 5.5" and Slim Jim for an additional $300 shipped. If the pistol doesn't sell, I'll jut put the gated on it and not run a ejector rod on it.
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Tuolumne Lawman,
Why not a jointed (with a link) pin? Some folks install a jointed pin in their 5 1/2" ers. You could do the same with the "all in one Kirst Remie pin/ejector.
Just a thought . . . .
Mike
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I had thought of that possibility, maybe cutting a 60 degree angle in the pin in the middle of the cylinder, then drilling a hole through the 60, and putting a pin through it to create a joint. My thought though is that it would not be very sturdy....
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"Sturdy" would depend on the "build" but at the end of the day, just a stable bearing surface fore and aft would be sufficient. Remember, a ROA has a pin that has a deminished mid section for the most part. I reduce the mid section of Remington pins for the accumulation of fouling. A cut ring with a series of grooves lead any fouling to the reduced section for a day of "non- binding" shooting!!
Mike
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What if you filed the frame enough at the muzzle end of the bore for the cylinder pin to let the pin to come out and drop enough to pass the lug? In other words, make the very end of the pin travel sloppy when the rod is pulled as far as it can go. Alternately, can you remove a bit on the bottom side of the pin at that point to let it drop? It would seat properly and not be too loose over most of the bearing surface.
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That is an option someone had on a youtube video a while ago. I would have to cut out the old cylinder pin out, the auger out the side of the hole. Between that and cutting off one of the front "wings", and maybe cut a slight angle to help it clear the lug. I am getting about 35 of the "transitional" ejectors from Walt to modify with my fix I described in the other post. Final production will be different, but Walt wants me to fix these ejectors to be "Tuolumne Lawman's ejector design" so he can sell them at a discount. I am using one of those to explore the possibility of doing the angle bevel, trimmed wing mod to see if it will work.
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how much did it cost to have your revolver converted? i've been thinking on doing the same for a 1860 army, I'm calculated the cost at the moment though.
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I did the channel myself with a dremel and cold blue. I have done it on both 1858 Remington and 1860 Colts. Cutting the channel on the Remmie took about 1/2 hr, and the Colt took about 45 minutes.
The gated Konvereters for either 1858 or 1860 run $325 + or - plus shipping. The non gated Pale Rider for the 1858 is $300. I am selling a Pale Rider non gated Pietta 1858 Konverter for $280 including shipping. Ejector assemblies for Colt or Remington run $135 or so.
You can buy Uberti factory conversions for about the same total money, but I enjoy the do it yourself aspect.
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how much did it cost to have your revolver converted? i've been thinking on doing the same for a 1860 army, I'm calculated the cost at the moment though.
Here is a thread I did on an 1851 in .44 (it used an 1860 Konverter and an 1851 ejector.)
https://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,61499.0.html
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That is an option someone had on a youtube video a while ago. I would have to cut out the old cylinder pin out, the auger out the side of the hole. Between that and cutting off one of the front "wings", and maybe cut a slight angle to help it clear the lug. I am getting about 35 of the "transitional" ejectors from Walt to modify with my fix I described in the other post. Final production will be different, but Walt wants me to fix these ejectors to be "Tuolumne Lawman's ejector design" so he can sell them at a discount. I am using one of those to explore the possibility of doing the angle bevel, trimmed wing mod to see if it will work.
You have a picture of your 45 degree mod?
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I cut the angle from the top of the long track to the top of the bottom short track. When using the ejector, it returns to the retracted under the barrel position automatically under spring pressure. By leaving the 90 degree angle at the cylinder end of the short bottom track, it prevents the ejector from compressing the spring when holstering. I used it at my local match and it is flawless.
(https://i.imgur.com/LuzLZ4B.jpg)
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I cut the angle from the top of the long track to the top of the bottom short track. When using the ejector, it returns to the retracted under the barrel position automatically under spring pressure. By leaving the 90 degree angle at the cylinder end of the short bottom track, it prevents the ejector from compressing the spring when holstering. I used it at my local match and it is flawless.
(https://i.imgur.com/LuzLZ4B.jpg)
That looks great! Very good work, there.
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Nah. I change my lineup the most. Of Course they are all Colt pattern Open Tops because REMINGTON SUCK ;D
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Nah. I change my lineup the most. Of Course they are all Colt pattern Open Tops because REMINGTON SUCK ;D
LOL!
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That looks great! Very good work, there.
Thanks! I expect to have the ejectors (to modify) from VTI/Kirst next week. It will take another week to get them done, then Priority mail back to VTI. They are also proceeding with a new modified production run, where the channel is on the bottom, and just goes straight back. I like my design better. Walt has not set a price yet for the TL design, but it will be slightly cheaper.
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Thanks! I expect to have the ejectors (to modify) from VTI/Kirst next week. It will take another week to get them done, then Priority mail back to VTI. They are also proceeding with a new modified production run, where the channel is on the bottom, and just goes straight back. I like my design better. Walt has not set a price yet for the TL design, but it will be slightly cheaper.
I also like your design better. I don't need one right now but maybe that will be something I should think about getting for some yet undertermined future need.
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I also like your design better. I don't need one right now but maybe that will be something I should think about getting for some yet undertermined future need.
Let me know, and I'll hold one back for you when I ship them back to VTI. There will be about 30-35 (I don't have number yet). You can make it right with Walt, and then I will ship to you when he says I can.
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Let me know, and I'll hold one back for you when I ship them back to VTI. There will be about 30-35 (I don't have number yet). You can make it right with Walt, and then I will ship to you when he says I can.
Thanks. I'll think about that.
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I am ticking with the 5.5 to go with the 8" gated. I am switching to a gated Konverter though, and think I will be able to fit an ejector on the 5.5. I will keep the folks posted. On another note, I just got all the ejectors from VTI that need my modification. Ordered the roll pins and some cut off wheels today.
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I was able to install a Kirst 1858 ejector on a 5.5" NMA. I worked out a work around for the cylinder pin being too long on the 5.5".
1) Cut the old cylinder pin out. Pretty much it was like Caesar crossing the Rubicon. Once you cut out the old pin, you are done with percussion cylinder, unless you use it with an ejector/cylinder pin that is modified. I will get another cylinder pin and modify it so I can use percussion still.
2) trim the breech end of the ejector/cylinder pin about to make it about 1/8" shorter, that leaves 1/8" left past the end of the cylinder to engage the recoil shield for stability.
3) trim of 1/3 the width of the loading lever latch on the barrel, on the side the ejector is on. That still leaves 2/3 the width to engage the loading lever catch.
4) cut a square notch the T lug on the side opposite the ejector, about 3/16" x 3/16". This allows the cylinder pin/ejector room to clear the now trimmed lug. It still allows enough forward surface on the T lug to be held in place in the notch in the front of the frame, by the rear edge of the rammer arm.
Works perfect and REALLY looks cool on the 5.5 inch!
Pics to come when I get back in town at the end of the week. I am gone until Thursday or Friday. When I get back, I will install the gated conversion on the 5.5" too. That will give me a 5.5" and an 8" NMA, both with gated Konverters and ejector rods.
I am going to give Walt a written and photo directions so he can have it on the web page. This will work with either the Tuolumne Lawman transitional ejectors (that I am working on for Walt) or the upcoming future production ones.
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Nice work around. I look forward to the pics.
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(https://i.imgur.com/NwFsWH2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iiJcW5P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xfOpm42.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rGHwvWo.jpg)
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There you go, clean and simple. Good thinking.