CAS TOPICS > The Darksider's Den

It's pretty dead in here...Maybe it's time for some zombies.

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Coffinmaker:

 :) Memory of a Gnat  ;)

I also forgot to include, when I still had my Shingle out, one of my specialties was to equip My Cap Guns and my Customer's Cap Guns with a "Cap Rake" or "Pin" as MAKO calls them.  I have always felt for ultimate reliability (I shoot Gunfighter) a mechanical device to prevent caps/fragments from entering the hammer channel was necessary.  A "Cap Rake" works a TREAT you betcha.  Burma Shave

Mako:
I shoot Gunfighter too, always have. Self promoting Frontier Gunfighter #1.  At least now you and I can technically be classified as Frontier Cartridge Gunfighters even wth loose powder pistols, no longer do we have to have our names soiled by mingling them with those fancy dud wearing bunny phart shooting smokiless .38 cartridge shooters.  I still always sign in at matches as Frontier Gunfighter for the class.  It used to be before they made the GFC class the only time I was legitimate was at the State BP cowboy matches, but actually shooting against Frontier cartridge Gunfighters like I do now.

Oh wait...the Perfesser revealed you also admit to shooting bunny phart loads.  But I guess they still have that sulfur smell and do make a whole lot more noise, so okay...

I also have stops for my loader, not for accuracy, but to make sure I really have the projectile seated firmly. And I have to feel that slight "crunch".

Don't you shoot Piettas?

~Mako

Navy Six:
Boy Mako, you are really trying to get me started. Anyway concerning which chambers to load--I like using white hair curling paper for my paper cartridges and as mentioned I load them without a projectile. So, when I drop one in a chamber just slightly below flush it is looking back at me with that bright white paper. No way I can mistake which chambers to load a projectile in even if for some reason(too often) you are distracted at the loading table.
With those darn cap fragments and Open top Colts-- right now I'm working on a long term project with mainspring strength. I have a few 51/60/61's that still do that occasionally after Slix-Shot nipples, Rem. # 10 caps, polished internals, polished hammer faces, corrected timing and arbor correction. These also have the current Uberti light springs or similar weight Wolf. When I installed a pair of 1999 era Uberti  heavier mainspring ( standard Cattleman) on  a pair of squareback Navies, the cap problems have stopped, at least for the last 300 rounds. These springs are not that much heavier, certainly not stopping me from cocking with one hand. Since I blame hotter caps and light mainsprings for a lot of cap problems, I will not install a cap rake/Manhattan device--yet. I don't like chopping up the guns when the simple installation of another mainspring will correct most of the problems(of course after each gun receives the above attention) . So my intention is determine what weight spring is the lightest necessary for general use without sacrificing reliability. Of course I understand 100% reliability may not be possible with a Colt, but I have reports of cap rakes failing at times too.

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Mako:
Navy Six,
The light mainsprings will kill your reliability.  You get hammer bounce from the back pressure.  Standard cones are the worst. I use Tresso cones, but the Slix will probably minimize it as well or perhaps better.  I never liked the way the cross holes "explode" the caps.  The Tressos are Aluminum Bronze (tough and corrosion free) and have a very small flash hole which minimizes blow back through the cone when the hammer is holding the cap in place.  I wrote something about that quite a bit back.

 I blew it a few years ago, I had access to a micro laser welder and I could have welded up all of the faces on all of my Colt's pattern revolver faces.  I don't know why I didn't do it. I don't want a non precision welder to do the face and I'm not at the level I need to do a fine TIG weld.  I need someone who does work like welding up and repairing gates and vents on plastic injection molds.  Those guys are so good they don't even upset the color on things like hammers.

Laser welders have gotten more common now, the one we had was to weld Ø.015 wire in place where it exited a Ø.016 hole drilled through a .Ø.04 stainless steel ball.  A true micro welder.  I have a fabricator now who is buying a Laser for sheet metal work, I actually talked to him just a couple of weeks ago about trying it after he gets some experience with the machine.  I have one spare hammer I'm going to let him try first.  I will still have to mill or surface grind the face after welding.

I actually have heavier than normal mainsprings in my match guns.  Harder to cock though.  But they still don't stop the cap sucking you sometimes get when cocking.

~Mako

Mako:
Sure is a lot more conversation in this forum now.  I was tired of talking to the voices in my head, they kept winning the arguments...

~Mako

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