Casing Leather

[TN Mongo]

I haven’t done any leather carving in 25 years and I would like to start again.  I have a question on casing leather.  A number of top leather makers recommend placing the wetted leather in a plastic bag for 3 or 4 hours before carving.  Do you just fold the bag over to allow some of the moister to get out or, do you close the zip lock, or close the bag with a twist tie, to retain as much moisture as possible? 

Secondly, I vaguely remember something about wrapping the project in plastic wrap and placing it in the refrigerator if you had to finish the carving the following day.

Any insight that you experienced carvers could give would be greatly appreciated. 

[Springfield Slim]

I just wet mine and when it has almost returned to it's natural color I tool it. A lot of it is just experience, doesn't take long to get the hang of it. Just a personal quirk but I don't like stopping and starting tooling if I can help it, so I haven't ever tried the freezing thing. On the few occasions I have had to stop I just wet the leather again the next day.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

   TN, I do what Slim does, if I'm working on a large piece of leather, I wet it under the faucet and then wait for the color to return I leave my wet leather on my granite slab, and wait for the color to return, then I start my carving, Cowboy WC got me off to a good start with this. I also keep a little pan handy of water with a small piece of sponge, to re-case as I go along, I don't want my leather to dry, I keep a small spray bottle on my table filled with water and use it also to re-dampen as needed, if I can't finish my carving for some reason, I dampen my leather and put it in a plastic zip lock bag, and then in the refrigerator, I've gone as long as three days before returning to my carving and the leather was cased perfect. hope this helps


        tEN wOLVES  

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[TN Mongo]

I've done a lot of stamping and minor carving and I know about wetting the leather.  What I'm trying to get more information on is the more complicated Sheridan style of carving.  I know that some of the top guys in this style of carving are quite particular about casing their leather to just the right moisture content.  Back in the mid 1970s when I was just getting into leather work, there was this very accomplished leather carver that I met who had a wooden box that was lined with galvanized steel.  I remember him placing wetted leather in his "box" and waiting a specific amount of time before did any carving or tooling.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

  TN, the pard to talk to is Cowboy WC, I'm sure you have seen the quality of his work, he does mostly Sheridan Style carving, I know he cases his leather, but I don't think he goes to all that much trouble to do it, maybe it has to do with us living here in California, who knows, if he doesn't chime in here, you might want to give him a PM, he'd be more than happy to explain how he does his.


               Regards

             tEN wOLVES 

[cowboywc]

Howdy
When I'm working on a bigger project I will wet the leather and place it in a zip lock bag in the frig over night. It  will let the water work into the fibers better and the leather will stay damp longer. Really big pieces (saddle parts) I wet and place in large black trash bag, seal and put in a cool place over night.
When I can not finish tooling I wet and put back in bag in frig til next day.
WC

[TN Mongo]

Thank you Cowboywc!  In the past I think I've had a problem with the leather being too wet before I started carving.

[cowboywc]

Always wait til it has almost returned to it's natural color. That is the ideal time to carve.
WC

[JD Alan]

Mongo, I don't think anyone specifically addressed the sealed or open bag question, but I'm reasonably certain the bag gets sealed; at least that's what I have done.  

Having seen WC's leather carving in person in his shop, I can testify that his Sheridan carving is top rate, just like 10 Wolves said.

[Marshal Will Wingam]

This is a topic we don't think about often but it's good information. I added this to the FAQ thread right after Wet Molding for future reference.

In my case, I seldom leave tooling overnight but when I do, the ziplock/trash bag is a good solution. I usually wet the leather by dunking it for 5-10 seconds then waiting for the right color to start carving. To keep my leather the right dampness while working, I have a fine-misting spray bottle full of water on hand. If the leather starts to dry too much, I lightly spritz it and resume tooling when it returns to the right color. I've never cased leather with solutions or anything, although some do.

[Ten Wolves Fiveshooter]

Good move Will

     This topic comes up so often that having it in the FAX/HOW TOO's will benefit all.

[ChuckBurrows]

I do pretty much what WC does. Peter Main, one of the best of the best, and others I know, wet the leather on both sides , set it on their carving slab or something else that's waterproof, and then they set a piece of plate glass on top. The ide is the excess water will ooze out the sides and you can watch the color change through the glass.

There are also carving aids like Bee CArve but I find a light cat of Lexol Conditioner works as well -wet and apply the Lexol, but only to the carving surface.

[Cliff Fendley]

I don't do a lot of carving so when I'm just tooling a piece that's not going to take long I'll wet both sides well and when it's back to original color I tool it.

If I am doing carving on a larger piece that will take a while I do like WC does in a plastic bag so the leather is cased throughout better. Seems like it when doing it that way it takes a very long time before it gets too dry.

When I was a kid I was taught the leather was properly cased when it was back to original color but feels cool when you put it up to your face.

[1961MJS]

Hi
I'm in Norman Oklahoma and was casing my leather with tap water.  I ended up with White water spots on the leather so I switched to distilled water to case with and I haven't had any more water spots.
Later

[Capt Quirk]

There are also carving aids like Bee CArve but I find a light cat of Lexol Conditioner works as well -wet and apply the Lexol, but only to the carving surface.

What kinda cat do you use???
 

[1961MJS]

Hi
Feel free to move this, but my question concerns casing leather.  I watched a few UTube videos by Road Agent and a few others.  Some of them put saddle soap on their leather when casing it.  They were able to dye the leather, but were all using Fiebing's alcohol or leather dye.  Does anyone here use Saddle Soap as part of casing the leather?  I primarily use Vinegaroon, coffee, and pecan dyes if that matters.
Thanks

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I don't use anything to case leather except for water. I know some people use additives in the water or case leather overnight. I take the KISS route and wet the leather when I am ready to tool it. When I'm done, I let it dry. Simple. Effective. When the piece is done, I do condition it to replenish the oils leeched out in the wet step(s).