Standing offer on Jamison Brass (upped the ante)

[Hoof Hearted]

I have to use Jamison brass in my 45-75 Chaparral (headspace is so close that it won't close on reformed .348) so I will offer up the following trade:

(3) once fired reformed WW .348 for (1) used Jamison (in servicable condition)
This "reformed" brass came straight from Chaparral and was test fire brass.
It has been polished and is perfect in every way!

I have a fair quantity!

Thanks for looking

[Hoof Hearted]

Back up for the weekend crowd

[Hobie]

HH,

I'll bump it up for you but I have to say, if I can ever get some Jamison I'll be wanting to try it for myself... 

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[Hoof Hearted]

Hobie

No perceivable difference, except the thickness of the rim! When my Crapparal came in with too much headspace the WW 348 stuff ignited 1 outta every 5 or so firings and the Jamison wouldn't fire at all Now with the headspace problem fixed it takes great effort to close the action on a Winchester case.

I have explored and attempted to thin the back side of the rim and of course the problem for me is how to hold the case
Anyone have any ideas?

[Hell-Er High Water]

HH,

Do you have a lathe?

In John J. Donnelly's book "The Handloaders Manual Of Cartridge Conversions" he details a simple fixture for hlding the case in a lathe for turning bases and rims.  Basically it is an arbor that holds the case with a pilot in the primer pocket with a locking screw inserted through the flash hole.  The details are in the book and can be adapted to suit your set up.

I made one and have turned the heads on several hundred 9.3X74R cases to make 40-70 Sharps Stright cases.  I have also used it to trim and or thin rims (from the front side) and cut new extractor grooves on other cases as well.

The only modification to the case is the opening up of the flash hole with a #44 drill to allow the insertion of a 2-56 screw to hold the case to the arbor.  This opening of the flash hole from approx 0.080" to 0.086" has had no effect on my cases and in all reality probably uniforms the flash hole diameters.

This book has a wealth of information in it, and although not inexpensive, is a good addition to to any gun nut's library.  Midway and others have carried it in the past.

HHW

[Hoof Hearted]

HHW

I've had that book for 15 to 20 years!
Use the heck outta it, too! But it's been so long since I bothered to read the words (always look at the pictures) that I never thought to look there.

Donnelly's description is pretty "loose" on the mandrel, but I'm going to attempt one with a teat on it to go inside the primer pocket (just to steady things up a bit) then thread the middle of the teat and make a mandrel with male threads to go through the case. Long enough to be knurled on the end. Should work pretty slick.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

[Hell-Er High Water]

HH,

The mandrel with the teat and the second one with the male thread and knurled end is exactly what I did.

Clean up the flash hole inside the case as if there is a burr there the mandrel with the male thread will not seat square, will bend a little at that point and will eventually break off the male threaded piece.  I tapped the end of the knurled mandrel and screwed in a long screw and then cut the head off.  This makes for easier replacement if it does break.

HHW