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The Leather Shop / Re: Hickock Holster in the Making
« Last post by PAMuzzleshooter on August 04, 2022, 05:38:09 PM »Thanks Will. Looks interesting.
Thanks, Will, In what way do you wet mold/shape a belt? I’ve wet molded holsters but not belts. Do you cut straight then curve them sort of like a Buscadero belt is cut curved?For the most part, this is correct. What I actually do is put a little curve to it so it fits a person's body without digging in at the hips. Some men don't need any curve. Women take a little more curve than men because their waists are proportionately narrower than their hips. If someone is going to wear it low on one side, you can put a little drop in it of the low side.
After I wet mold or shape a belt, it gets a little stiff so I add a couple coats of Skidmore's Leather Cream then work it some after it has soaked in to make it more limber. That makes a belt more comfortable. Even if I don't wet shape the belt, I do work it some. I don't start with softer leather though. It's exactly the same leather as I use in the holsters. Often the belt and holster come from the same side of leather.
That's the Chuck Burrows influence at work. I started that on rawhide knife sheaths and really like the result. I was originally going to hang some beaded fringe off the cuff between the mainseam and the fold but it ended up being too low on the pouch to look right.Thanks, It looks great.
I gave that a lot of thought. I have a few examples of Chuck's work and you can't see everything underneath but I was able to glean enough from their construction to figure out it's best to add them afterwards. Those are larger 8/0 beads but even they don't have enough room for a full strand of artificial sinew 'and' the needle to pass. So I stitch the mainseam and then split the sinew to about 1/4 to add the beads. It's one continuous thread, I do a running stitch with one color, then come back and do the other. Vegtan you can do dry but the rawhide needs to still be wet. Also helps to kinda nestle the beads into the stitchline.
I do all my most productive thinking in the shower and that is where I figured out how to do the beaded fringe with one continuous thread. I couldn't wait to get out, dry off and sketch it up to make sure it didn't leave me. I had figured out years ago to use an 4/0 bead as a sort of stopper for the cones and was tickled to find that's what Chuck did as well. So I've got a coffee can full of ugly 4/0 craft store beads I use just for that.
Great tutorial and I love the result. I've also done a holster tutorial and can greatly appreciate the work that goes into one.Thank you, Craig. Yeah, I could have made three holsters in the time it took to make the one and get the photos. It was all good fun, though.
Will, “hand”, “temper”, “firmness”…all the same term. People in my Tandy store call it “hand”. I had to ask them what they meant. Just wanted to know if you used softer or stiffer leather for your belts.I wasn't familiar with that term. That's OK, though, I've noticed that the older I get, the amount of things I don't know increases. After I wet mold or shape a belt, it gets a little stiff so I add a couple coats of Skidmore's Leather Cream then work it some after it has soaked in to make it more limber. That makes a belt more comfortable. Even if I don't wet shape the belt, I do work it some. I don't start with softer leather though. It's exactly the same leather as I use in the holsters. Often the belt and holster come from the same side of leather.
Not sure what you mean by" firm hand leather". I use the same leather I use for holsters.
Add me to the list for loving that beaded seam line. The whole holster is just great, but that bead line is fantastic!Thank you very much!