Wheel Weights for Big Bores

[King Medallion]

Scored about 40lbs of wheel weights from the gas station around the corner. Told me to come get them any time. Said it took about 2 months to get that much. Anyway, being a beginner at casting, just wondered if such lead is good for cast our big bore boolits? Leaving for Wyoming later today so won't be getting at melting down for a couple weeks, but looking forward to the project.

[Reverend P. Babcock Chase]

Howdy King,

I don't know how to check the metal in your wheel weights, but my understanding is that pretty much most are now not made of lead any more. I think that they are now pot metal of some alloy. I don't cast any more, so I'm sure someone with more recent experience will chime in here soon. If yours are actually a lead alloy, I think an old cast bullet handbook can give you recipes and info about how to use them.

Rev. Chase

[Coal Creek Griff]

I have used a lot of wheel weights for smokeless loads for large bore rifles (and pistols). Most casters suggest softer alloy for black powder loads.

Rev. Chase is correct. I have pretty much stopped using wheel weights as they are less likely to be useful with new environmental regulations. Do some research about current wheel weight metals and learn to identify the good ones from the bad ones. I got tired of sorting out all of the steel wheel weights and the ones that likely contained too many other metals in them...

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[dusty texian]

This may help . ,,,,DT

[Dave T]

DITTO to what the Rev and Griff said. For black powder cartridge softer is better. Most recommend a 1-20 alloy and 1-40 is not unheard of. I learned recently the first Creedmore match was won by the US team shooting Sharps and Rolling Blocks. Most of their ammunition was loaded with bullets made of a 1-16 tin to lead alloy.

In none of this is there any mention of Antimony, which the wheel weights I used starting in the 1970s had as part of the mix. That was for smokeless powder. Black powder cartridge long range shooters generally say to avoid Antimony or other alloy metals. Stick to lead and tin.

YMMV,
Dave

[dusty texian]

I use wheel weights often with good enough results for accuracy and performance on game animals . Dealing with the  unwanted junk is kind of a pain , but its free . I cant tell the difference in accuracy using 1-16 mix or wheel weights , but I'm not that great of a shooter . ,,,DT

[King Medallion]

Practice more! 

[Baltimore Ed]

Hold them against your bench vice and hit them with the ball of your ball peen hammer. If the hammer dents the ww you’re good, if it bounces off it’s zinc or steel which is no good. Throw them in your steel recycle bucket. Lead WW’s are great for .38-.45 pistol bullets. I’ll add some yard/range bullets to it too.

[King Medallion]

Well I do have a bench and even a vice on it, but I don't  believe I have a ball peen hammer!! Lordy, more expenses!! 

[Black River Smith]

King,
What everyone has stated is correct concerning modern common vehicle wheel weight.  Modern wheel weights contain more aluminum than lead.  Do not put aluminum into your lead alloy mixes.  It is not good.

With that said, I still do pickup wheel weights -- off the streets and parking lots.  The one trick I use to determine what is good or bad is to, (and you are not going to like hearing this) spread your weights out into small piles so that atmospheric air can circulate around them.  Let them sit for 6 months.  At that time or earlier you will notice that some turn to a dark/dull gray while others are still nice and shiny.  Throughout the shiny ones and just use the darker/dull looking gray ones.  This way you will more likely be getting what Dusty's chart lists as Wheel Weight Lead.

Another suggestion, since you are new and not really concerned about true Lead to Tin to Antimony alloy mixes -- is the following.  Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy 'roof sewer line exhaust vents'.  These are as close to pure lead that you will easily fine available.  Mix this with your dark/dull wheel weights and you will be able to extend the quantity of your 'Lead Pot' and still get good molding and shooting bullets.

Also try to go to small town plumbing stores and ask if they have large quantity lead for sale.  Or go to estate sales and ask for any lead (one time I found a large sheet of lead but the estate people were keeping it themselves).  Yard sales (I got luck years ago, there was a retiring plumber in the neighborhood that had two baskets full of lead ingots) ended up being 93%.  On the low end of good lead alloys but still usable or mixable.

Hope this helps some.

[dusty texian]

BRS is spot on . After fooling around with the different weights you can spot the good ones from the bad . Use a pair of 9 Kleins and give them the cut test . The softer ones cut pretty easy . Guess you don't have any Kleins either . Who don't have a ball peen  hammer  ? I
 do need to get some practice in . ,,,,,DT

[Trailrider]

I haven't done any casting in about 15-20 years.    I still have two large paint buckets full of wheel weights I picked up years ago and used to cast bullets for use with smokeless loads for some of my antique guns, especially .45-70 and .50-70.  I alloyed the  WW's with 50-50 lead-tin bar solder to make Lyman #2 equivalent alloy. I guess I'd be willing to sell the stuff, but can neither move the buckets very easily, nor can figure out how to ship them to anywhere or anybody! Until I can afford to get some dental work on my upper right jaw completed (have a temporary bridge that might not take recoil well), and with COVID raging around (still), and the weather being so hot, I don't get I'll get to do much rifle shooting for a while.

[kwilliams1876]

This is where a lead hardness tester comes in handy. Several makes out there and when dealing with junk, or unknown lead sources it is invaluable.
kw

[King Medallion]

Looks like I have some work to do. Thanks, men.