Pietta 1860 Army Barrel Locking Pins removal

[Blacksheep]

This is my first post on this forum, so, hello everyone.  I purchased a used Pietta 1860 and took it shooting today.  Everything worked fine but when taking it apart for cleaning, both barrel Locking pins had been removed from the base of the barrel assembly and were shoved all the way into and flush with the frame to where there wasn't anything to grab onto to pull them out.  So, the base of the barrel assembly now has enough wiggle room left and right (about 1/8th of an inch) to where I can't shoot this thing because the forcing cone won't be properly aligned.

Anyone have any ideas on how to pull them out?

[45 Dragoon]

Don't worry about pulling them out, drill them out.  Make new ones out of the drill bit shank. If the barrel lug holes are larger you can use a bit that fits them and file/sand them to the smaller diameter needed.

Mike

[Blacksheep]

Copy all, thanks.  Just out of curiosity, do you have any idea why they weren't long enough so there wouldn't be a dead space where they could be trapped?

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[Cap'n Redneck]

Just a wild guess:  perhaps the original alignment pins had been lost by a former owner, and a pair of make-shift short ones had been installed?  Then again; stranger things have been known to come out of Italy...

And an afterthought: Have You tried to lightly tap the cylinder arbor vertically against, say a wise or an anvil, in order to shake the alignment pins out?

[Blacksheep]

I tried the tapping but it looks like I'm going to have to go with the drill.  You're probably right about the originals, just really weird because both pins were as they should be when I took it apart prior to shooting for the first time.  Assuming I don't mess it up without a drill press, I'll try to rig something together and post photos.  Otherwise, I'll just blame Michigan football and hope to shoot it again this time next year.

[DJ]

You might be able to drill a small center hole in each one and use a small size screw extractor or tap to get a enough of a grip to pull them out.  You're probably going to want to drill an undersized hole to start with anyway, and if you can pull them out rather than drill them full diameter you reduce the risk of making the holes oversized.

[DeaconKC]

I think I would check with a gunsmith about getting them out if you have any doubts. Buggering up the frame is a possibility.

[Blacksheep]

I started with a 1/16th bit to work the small to large until the proper size hole is reached, but the bit shredded whatever was left of the previous pins in the hole and I was able to clean it up with the right sized bit.  Once I shorten up the replacement pins which I cut from the bit used, it looks like it will work.  The bit is the same diameter as the holes in the barrel assembly.  In the short term, I'm going to use super glue as a temporary means to secure them.  Anyone have a better solution?  Would red locktite work? 

An odd result out of all of this is that I had a Thuer conversion which was too long and needed some of the face removed with the wedge all the way in...it now works fine with proper timing and cylinder alignment.  It's a little tight and I'll polish down some more of the face but I think it will work fine.

To recap, a pistol reported as "very good condition showing light wear" by a top 100 seller in one of the big online sites came with a broken trigger spring (I had a spare), water warped pistol grip (I make my own), a barrel that may have been cleaned in the past, and now jammed pins might actually be a shooter for more than one outing soon.  I'm a little irked, but greatly appreciate the feedback and help.

[greyhawk]

Don't worry about pulling them out, drill them out.  Make new ones out of the drill bit shank. If the barrel lug holes are larger you can use a bit that fits them and file/sand them to the smaller diameter needed.

Mike

Mike
does this need a little bit of wiggle clearance ?
My son's walker got loose and when I worked it over I redrilled the pin holes larger - then turned little pins to a mickey mouse fit in the new holes (much neater than you would get fitting drill shank back into its own hole) that gun goes together real stiff and I thought afterward maybe did too good of a job on it??
 

[45 Dragoon]

Greyhawk,
  No wiggles !!. The main check will be bore/chamber alignment. That is the purpose of those pins. That is purely and simply a butt joint there with pins for rotational location. The main force thàt joint sees is vertically and to a lesser degree rotational from the rifling. If your fit is tight and bore/ chamber alignment is good, you're good to go!!

Mike

[Blacksheep]

What's the best way to check the bore / chamber alignment with garage tools?

My visual inspection looks good for the percussion cylinder when looking at the frame / barrel meld.  Nipple also lines up centered.  I also loaded empty primed cases which lined up with the Thuer firing pin and fired, which is a very broad tolerance but a start.  I'm in no rush and, frankly, getting more out of the project.

I am going to order a new bolt.  With the cylinder locked and the hammer back, there is a barely perceptible wiggle with the Theur but not the percussion cylinder.  It is firmly locked and timing properly. 

[Professor Marvel]

What's the best way to check the bore / chamber alignment with garage tools?

With the piece empty, cock, then One can use a strong flashlight and peer down the barrel.
or remove the nipples and point the flashlight from the backside.
either way if the cylinder is not aligned with the barrel one can clearly see a barely perceptable cescent .

hope this helps
prf mumles

[45 Dragoon]

 Plus 1 to the Perfessor !   No crescents. 

Mike

[Blacksheep]

Copy all, thanks.