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I like to use good old fashion automotive leaf and coil spring steel.
This is an excellent high carbon steel that can be used for a wide variety of implements
From knives to tongs, cold chisels, hot chisels, pry bars, and, well even springs!

It all depends on the tempering.

To harden generic carbon steel heat entire part (knife, hammer, whatever) until steel is

For most common carbon steels this is at orange-red in a dim workshop.

Yellow is too hot, too close to burning the carbon out of the steel.

If you see sparks, that is the carbon burning out… bad juju

Once it is orange red ( a lot of folks use a magnet on a wire handle, its more accurate)

From orange red, Quickly quench in the appropriate fluid … usually oil .
There are also water quench steels, air quench steels, etc etc.

This hardens the steel . At this point it is  uniformly brittle all the way thru.
The next step , you need to “temper” the item. For knives I like to have a harder edge and a softer
Spine so I gently heat the spine of the knife and watch the rainbow collors run towards the edge,
Stopping where I want it. By quenching it once more. Other folks go by strict temperature and the entire knife has a uniform Hardeness, like most factory knives.

IF you are not concerned about the hardness of the hammers spur, one can let it cool slowly in the air
Or wait until it fades to about black “black heat” and dump in water to just cool quickly.

Quenching at black heat does nothing for hardness as the austentite ( carbon crystaline structure) has to be nonmagnetic is order to align the structure (making it hard) and the fast quench sort of freezes the alignment in place.

Many ancient smiths (and some modern ones) insist on quenching a knife or sword horizontally and aligning
It with magnetic north, the theory being that this enhances the magnetic alignemtn of the austentite
At the moment of quenching.

There is also “normalizing”  in which you bring steel up to red-orange then bury it in ashes to let it cool slowly, making the steel deliberatelly soft for ease of cutting and filing.

It is handy when forging, if one is as unskilled as I am, I forge it as far as I can, then normalize for easy finish work, then heat treat. My several mentors were so skilled they would forge an item to the final shape
With no filing or grinding needed, except for final fitting!

Lastly, most C&B revolver hammers I have played with were only case hardened for the important bits.
One wants to protect this around the wear parts and the cock and half cock notches, etc.
Hope this helps
Books & Movies / Re: New Western game trailer
« Last post by Kaida on Today at 04:39:11 AM »
The trailer and the graphics look like you actually dive into the atmosphere of the Wild West.
STORM / Re: Turned down hammers on Open Tops-Like to see pics, how to
« Last post by 1961MJS on Yesterday at 11:52:42 PM »

With Respect to heat treating, I READ UP on using the material removal method of shaping a knife.  When you're done, you heat the knife to red hot, quench it in oil making it brittle, wipe the oil off without starting a fire, and then heat the knife in an oven for a few hours at somewhere between 250 and 400 degrees F to temper the steel.

Is this in any way related to what needs to be done to the hammer?

Howdy Rossi Fans,

After a misspent childhood watching cowboy movie and TV shows I had to go for an older (no offensive safety) carbine in .45 Colt. It's nowhere as smooth and fast as my 66's. I don't use it much in CAS because I shoot CC, but I just love it and wouldn't part with it.

Rev. Chase

   I've been interested in this Bullet Mould; looks like a good one! I size all of my .45 Colt / .45 S&W bullets to
.454", and cast them using "Range Scrap", generally 10BHN / no harder than 14BHN.
   Is "C.O.W." cream of wheat? Have You tried .45S&W / .45 Colt Govt length brass? It will allow You to use lighter
charges of BP. So far, I've had very good results ( with Smokeless ) in my A. Uberti Old Model S&W American, .45
5"bbl. and a Colt's New Service.

The Longbranch / Re: Spam warning
« Last post by Abilene on Yesterday at 10:34:35 PM »
There is a special place in hell for those sorts.  But I'd just as soon stuff happen to them before they get there.
Grrr... >:(
 a FedEx email scam was going around that claims to be a "package delivery notification" from the company, which said, "Your package is held in our warehouse."
The scam was being sent around, got two today and have seen several times before
particularly during gift-giving holidays.

Beware don't get scammed

I've been getting recorded phone calls about a fictional Amazon package, wanting me to respond if I DID NOT order it. I wander how the scam would work if I did respond?
The Longbranch / Re: Spam warning
« Last post by Professor Marvel on Yesterday at 09:32:31 PM »
Got a call today from ‘Amazon’ about charges to my account but no legit emails. Crooks gotta crook. That nigerian prince needs a new tiara for his 23rd wife.

The bad news is the crooks are still crooking

Worst news is many of these are terrorists, chinese, north korean, or russian professionals intending
Disruption and funding of  their little endevours.

The good news is that, when properly motivated, the Athorities CAN shut them down.

The best news, is that “them who can do it” are infact taking the worst offenders down, silently and behind the scenes.

On several “special occasions” it was accomplished via physical boots on the ground methodology involving collateral damage, international cooperation, and later quiet court proceedings often in other countries.
Usually has to meet a “certain criteria” .

As a retired whatchacallit I sort of continue to quietly observe from afar and from behind a safe thingamajig.

Yhs prof mumbles
The Darksider's Den / Re: 11.7X51R Danish
« Last post by Professor Marvel on Yesterday at 09:18:44 PM »
Thanks for the info and links.  We can always rely on you for good info.

Ah Joe you are too kind!
As long as I am not typing with a fever I am somewhat reliable  ;)
STORM / Re: Turned down hammers on Open Tops-Like to see pics, how to
« Last post by Professor Marvel on Yesterday at 09:14:39 PM »
Greetings My good Netizens

My 2 bits, and fyi , i not only did not sleep at a holiday inn, i did not sleep at all last night LOL

K Bob is on the right track!

Ok, firstly, as an amateur knifemaker/blacksmith my advice is a SMALL torch, like a Mapp torch with a pinpoint flame.

 Second, aluminum jaws on a bench vice. Only let the hammer spur stick up. Draws the heat from the rest of the hammer bits.

Apply the oinpoint flame at the base of the spur. At red/orange start your bend.
Try to do it in one go.
If you make a little templet / guide to hold next to the spurr you will know how far to go.

When bent to happiness, DO go ahead and plop it in room temp water.
By that time it will be at “black heat”  and it should not get brittle, but you are protecting the rest
of the hammer from having the heat treat adversely affected.

Remmeber, this is a small part, it does not need a big mongo torch.

Hope this helps

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