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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  The Barracks (Moderators: Delmonico, Pitspitr)  |  Topic: Haversack recommendations 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Haversack recommendations  (Read 5035 times)
Doc Jackson
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« Reply #50 on: October 15, 2018, 03:05:53 pm »

Well, keep it in mind for next year.

I had one question for next year. Ive flown with guns before, but how would I get my ammunition out there? Would I just arrange to buy some from another person attending or just shipped my stuff?
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smoke
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« Reply #51 on: October 15, 2018, 04:27:50 pm »

I finished painting the haversack, let it set overnight next to my woodstove and in the morning went over it with a stiff brush to rough up some of the shine. Im happy with how it turned out.

Here it is will my kit so far, my sack coat will be in next month. Im going for the bootees next.


Nice...is the a WPG prairie belt?

Is that a cadet rifle?
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smoke
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« Reply #52 on: October 15, 2018, 04:29:07 pm »

I had one question for next year. Ive flown with guns before, but how would I get my ammunition out there? Would I just arrange to buy some from another person attending or just shipped my stuff?

You can travel with it or you can ship it to someone out there or maybe pick up at UPS? 
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Doc Jackson
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« Reply #53 on: October 15, 2018, 04:57:31 pm »

Its is a WPG belt, I added three lines of stitching to the end, it was my first try at sewing leather so the lines arent exactly straight. I also had to do some finishing work on the belt plate, so it would line up correctly. No it isnt a cadet, its a standard 52'' OAL rifle.
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smoke
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« Reply #54 on: October 15, 2018, 05:08:30 pm »

I never noticed the lines...looks good from here!

What was up with the belt plate?
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GAF#379
Doc Jackson
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« Reply #55 on: October 15, 2018, 05:17:01 pm »

The plate was rough cast and the two ends didn't line up properly but it was an easy fix.

My rifle isn't exactly perfect, it has the M79 rear sight.
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Pitspitr
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« Reply #56 on: October 16, 2018, 05:58:09 am »

I've had folks ship their stuff to themselves at my address
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smoke
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« Reply #57 on: October 17, 2018, 05:03:20 am »

The plate was rough cast and the two ends didn't line up properly but it was an easy fix.

My rifle isn't exactly perfect, it has the M79 rear sight.

Thanks for the info....how did you find the sizing?  I have bought cartridge belts on line, gone by the makers sizing recommendation and have found them a little too small. 

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Doc Jackson
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« Reply #58 on: October 17, 2018, 06:45:45 am »

The sizing seemed to be accurate.
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Doc Jackson
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« Reply #59 on: October 18, 2018, 11:55:23 am »

Any Idea on the amount of coffee, bacon, and hardtack I should have? what were the portioned sizes issued. Im making hardtack today.
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Doc Jackson
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« Reply #60 on: October 18, 2018, 03:40:46 pm »

I did my first attempt at hardtack today, made nine 3x3 pieces.
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smoke
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« Reply #61 on: October 18, 2018, 04:26:14 pm »

Looks good....need some beans and coffee. Grin
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« Reply #62 on: December 15, 2018, 10:48:49 pm »

Hi

You mentioned knives.  Check Crazy Crow for already finished Green River knives.  Since you have a Colt 45 and a Trapdoor, you no longer NEED the broadsword.  I have one of these that I use around the kitchen:

https://www.crazycrow.com/hunters-knife/green-river-hunter-knife-5in-blade

There are other great ones on around that one.

Later
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Mike
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« Reply #63 on: December 22, 2018, 08:34:18 am »

Pay attention to the rivers in the hanles of those Green River knives. If you want historically accurate l, then you want ones with five pins, not the three brass cutler rivets.
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1961MJS
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« Reply #64 on: December 22, 2018, 04:49:33 pm »

Pay attention to the rivers in the hanles of those Green River knives. If you want historically accurate l, then you want ones with five pins, not the three brass cutler rivets.

Yes, the Snake River ones have the right number of rivets.  You COULD buy the Green River blades, remove the temper from the right parts of the handle and drill new holes.  I've done it to put a brass tube at the butt of a knife I was making.  I didn't remove the temper from much of the blade and I dindn't re-temper it.  It's still in work so I have no clude if I SHOULD have re-tempered the blade.

Mike
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Mike
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LongWalker
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« Reply #65 on: December 24, 2018, 08:55:19 am »

Just a thought on tempering.  Rather than drawing the temper then re-tempering the blade after drilling the holes, you have a couple options.  Both start with marking the new pin holes: you can use a fine-pointed "permanent" marker, but the heat will sometimes "un-permanent the markings.  Any more, I mark the new pin locations with a carbide burr in a Dremel. 

Once the locations are marked, you can SECURELY clamp the blade to a piece of wood, then clamp the wood to the table of your drill press.  (Trust me, you don't want the bit to catch and the blade to be free-spinning.)  Drill the holes with a carbide bit. 

Or you can draw the temper only around the locations of the new holes.  Clamp the blade vertically in a metal vise.  Grip a 16d nail in a pair of vise grips and heat it red hot, then touch it to the new pin locations and hold it there til it cools.  Clamp the blade under the drill press and drill the new holes. 

Actually, when I think about it there is a third option: clamp the blade as for drilling, and put a new 16d nail in the chuck.  "Drill" using the new nail.  Friction will quickly heat the tip red hot, and draw the temper from the blade tang.  LET THE NAIL COOL, remove it from the chuck, and substitute your drill bit.  Drill the hole, then move on to the next. 
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« Reply #66 on: December 24, 2018, 09:32:41 am »

Seems like a ridiculous amount of work just to add pins to a knife. Patience and $25-$50 will land you an original knife. Iíve picked them up for as little as $3 at flea markets.
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Doc Jackson
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« Reply #67 on: December 24, 2018, 11:29:48 am »

Im going to have to agree with grenadier, I'd rather just buy an original.
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LongWalker
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« Reply #68 on: December 24, 2018, 01:06:52 pm »

Around here, usetawas, you could find an original knife (or a knife made in the same manner as late as the 1930s), every couple weeks while out garage-sailing.  Now, not so much.  The past ten years I've averaged about 1-2 such knives every summer.  If I only wanted one, and would settle for whatever half-worn-out knife I found, that might be OK. 

But some years I'll go through 10-12 knives.  Instead of trying to locate something close to an original, it is more efficient in time and money to take a knife that is of the right general thickness, re-shaping the outline of the blade and handle, drilling for the correct pins, tapering the tang, and fitting a new, correct, handle.  (Other times I fit bone scales and go a bit bonkers carving them.  Not cost effective, but it makes the knife easy to identify if misplaced!)
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In my book a pioneer is a man who turned all the grass upside down, strung bob-wire over the dust that was left, poisoned the water, cut down the trees, killed the Indian who owned the land and called it progress.  Charles M. Russell
1961MJS
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« Reply #69 on: December 24, 2018, 06:09:08 pm »

Im going to have to agree with grenadier, I'd rather just buy an original.

Hi

I don't like to use original anything when playing a sport.  I have two Krags but those aren't being reproduced at this point.  If you have a drill press, it's not that hard.  I tried using a carbide bit and just wasted the bit, but I didn't do the nail first. 

Later
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Mike
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Cas City Forum Hall & CAS-L  |  Special Interests - Groups & Societies  |  The Barracks (Moderators: Delmonico, Pitspitr)  |  Topic: Haversack recommendations « previous next »
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