Wad size for brass 12 gauge hulls?

[will52100]

Getting ready to load some brass hulls and need to make a wad punch for them.  Anybody know the diameter of the over shot or over powder disk that's used with them?

I can mike out the hulls, but I know the cards need to be slightly larger, just not sure how much larger.

Thanks

[LongWalker]

I load brass shells with black powder with the same wads I use in my 11 gauge ML.  The ID of my 11 gauge wad punch is right about .750" on average.  (Measured three points and averaged; the punch is an original and no longer perfectly round--if it ever was.)

Please note: I have NO IDEA what size wads you'd use to load smokeless in those cases.  If you're going to do that, PLEASE find someone who knows what they're talking about!

[Abilene]

Howdy Will, I'm assuming you are loading Magtech hulls?  Use 11 ga. nitro overpowder 1/8" card and 11 ga. fiber wads if you use fiber.  I'm using 11ga overshot also in my Rem-UMC and Winchester hulls but most folks find 10ga overshot card fits tighter.  The 11ga measure .760" diameter for me, not sure what 10ga measures but should be easy enough to find out.

edit: I see Longwalker has replied first and his measure .750"  Mine wads are from Circlefly.

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[will52100]

Thanks, I'm planning on using black powder to load.

I did a little searching and one site list there 11 gauge wads for mag tech shot shells as .762.  So your numbers pretty much spot on.  I'm not sure if the .750 will compress and allow the card to spring back a bit, but then I might be overcomplicating things.  I think I'll make a punch at .750 and see how it does, I can always open it up a touch.

Thanks

[Bibbyman]

There are two plastic cup wads that work well in Magtech 12 gauge brass hulls. Remington 10 gauge SP-10  and BPI PT-1-5/8.  Yes, 10 gauge plastic hulls are a nice slide fit in the 12 gauge Magtech. 

[Abilene]

I just use Winchester or Claybuster red 12ga wads, same as for plastic hulls.  The nitro card provides the seal and they work fine.  But like most things BP, lots of ways to skin them cats.   

[LongWalker]

The components of your wad column will definitely make a difference, as will what you use to seal the mouth of the case. 

For comparative purposes, my wads punched out of poster board measure about .754", but if I punch them on an area of worn-out end grain on the log I use for a backer, they "grow" to about .7759-.761.  Wads punched out of 1/4" felt measure about .765" at their largest, due to compression before cutting. 

Run over the chronograph, different sealers will give different velocities with the same load/wad column.  If I were a good enough shotgunner I suspect I'd be able to see that in my results.  (I'm not, but I still tend to stick with the same stuff.)

[Coffinmaker]

I use Ballistic Products 10Ga PT1044, although I do cut down the shot cup for a smaller pay load.  An 11Ga Nitro Card over powder and 11 Ga Over Shot finish em up.  BOOMBA!!

[will52100]

Lots of good info, thanks.  Now to fire the lathe up and see what happens.

Thanks.

[will52100]

Wad punch wound up at .755 and is just about perfect for over shot and over powder cards, but might be a little snug for felt cushion wads.  I did luck out and found I had a bunch of 11 gauge wads, and a bag of over shot cards.  The 11 gauge overshot cards were just a hair looser in the case than I'd like though.

Now if I can find a way of crimping the brass I'll be set.  Will probably get the RCBS die set.

Thanks for all the help.

[Isom]

Will, get and use a cheap hot-glue gun from Wally-World, glue those loose over-shot wads in. I've been doing it for over 8yrs. And you don't have to crimp. Try it.
Have fun,
Isom

[Bibbyman]

I've never crimped brass hulls but I get the notion that when fired,  the crimp doesn't open up so the next time you load, you have to open up the crimp.  Maybe just something I dreamed up. 

[will52100]

Haven't tried the hot glue, but used elmer's and the loads were anticlimactic to say the least.  There is or was a crimp tool out there that put just a smidge of crimp on, but doesn't look like it's been made since the 40's. 

Would like to try both with and without and see how they perform.  As for the crimp shortening case life, I can anneal them and get some more life, but for everyday shooting and such I'll stick to plastic hulls as they are free.

[Abilene]

I have never crimped my hulls and some of them have been shot over 50 times without splitting.  I use 60gr FFg, 1/8" 11ga nitro card, red claybuster or Win wad, 1 1/8 oz shot (overkill for some, but there remain some stubborn targets around these parts), and an 11ga overshot card that is a bit loose, glued in with elmer's wood glue.  Big boom and impressive without a crimp, so I don't think that will make much difference.

BTW, that is the same load I use in Remington gold nitro or green STS hulls, minus the cards.

[Bibbyman]

I have traided into a big stash of brass hulls and were using them in my old doubles.  But I find the sharp edge of the mouth make it difficult to hit the chambers with any speed or certainty.   So I've started using plastic hulls,  AA, or STS, cut and roll crimped.   The roll crimper puts not only a nice radii, but also a slight taper.  I just toss the burnt hulls at the unloading table. I can usually pick up enough new hulls from the trash bucket to about keep up with loss.

[Mogorilla]

I have brass hulls from Rocky Mountain Cartridge.   I initially had 12 gauge wads/cards from Midway USA.  While I like their service the bags of 500 included some 20 guage and some that appeared to be 28 gauge.   I ended up getting the 11 gauge wads and cards from Track of the Wolf.   I load black powder and the wads card work perfectly.  I do not use cups or anything, these are thick fiber wads.  I use 80 grains ffg, use the same measure for the shot.    I seal the top with Elmers over the card, works like a dream.  I would give the life expectancy of dry elmers in a dry winter to only be a few months, but the cracks in the top can be filled in with more elmers.   I get a nice big boom and a decent pattern. 


Side note, I have some wasp nest material that I cut and loaded into 2 shells.   I still used cards, but the nests served as the wadding.   Worked very well.   Since I obtained a flinter a few months back that is essentially a 12 gauge, I am saving the wasp nest for it.

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

Mogorilla; That is a good hunting load where ranges are a bit out there. For CAS neer un deer targets, even knockovers, you can easily drop the powder load to the region of 60 gr. Still getserdun.

[Mogorilla]

I am still in the tweeking stage.  Just on my 3rd set of reloads with the brass.  Even with the 20 inch barrels, I am thinking it would still be a good brush dove or quail gun.