cone torque?

[Bunk Stagnerg]

Hello the camp,
I have been shooting muzzle loaders for a good long while and one thing I have never read about is how tight should the cones in cylinder be. Usually I just run mine down to solid hand tight about like the screws on the gun and always treat the threads with a anti size compound. About every hundred rounds or so they come out to be cleaned then put back in. Any thoughts here will be appreciated.
The cones are mostly the SlixShot brand.
Yr' Oby' Svt'
Bunk

[Major 2]

your on it.... snug with anti-seize

Only thing I do different is pull as part of the after action/use cleaning regiment ....re- anti-seize and replace

[Crow Choker]

What Major said-I also take nipples out after shooting, during cleaning rest of gun and 're' anti-seize. Gets them cleaner and also able to clean up the cylinder recess a lot better. I always screw em in until they are tight and just give them a slight/tiny/miniscule extra 'snuggin'. Ref the anti-seize, on a facebook group about black powder revolvers, a guy was showing all viewers how he used anti-seize on the nipples. He had it slathered all over the threads (thick), even had some oozing over onto the base of the nipple. Guess he figured the more the better. Other posters pointed out the unneed for that amount. I only take a very small dab, spread it on one side of the threads in a line and screw em in. When ever the are removed, the entire threads are covered. Not putting an engine block back together.

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[Thumb Buster]

+1 on what Crow Choker said.  Sure wish they did that 'tiny' snugging at the factory!  My 1861 showed up with that Italian gorilla having torqued them in.   

[Coffinmaker]

Cones??  Torque??  or Torque??  Cones??  Every time I put any torque on my cones, I wound up with a big lump of Ice Cream on the toe of my shoe      Gave that up right quick .. I did.  Nope, no sir ... no torque on my cones .... no way.

Here is my take after lots and lots of Cap Guns.  ZERO torque.  None.  Nada, Zip (that a gun now??).  When I build up a gun, of course I pull the OEM nipples (no embarrassment here) and put them in a safe place (like a trash can).  Then, I install Slixshot nipples with a light coat of anti-seize on the threads.  When the nipples bottom out .... I'm done.  Just "snug" with my "X" wrench.  Dat's all folks.  Nothing more is needed or recommended.

As an addendum (new wurd), when cleaning after a match ....... TA DA ...... I don't bother to pull the nipples.  Waste of time.  Washed em clean in the sink (Slix are stainless) and twist a pipe-cleaner inem and then a puff of air.  Done.  I suppose, if on inspection, something looked really wonky, I'd pull em, but that hasn't happened yet.  I do make use of a nipple pic (bent paper clip) during a match but have never needed to pull nipples.

Coffinmaker

[Crow Choker]

Well when I say I give them a slight/tiny/miniscule extra 'snuggin' I in no way am torquin/torqueing/gorilla snugin or what ever. I'm just turning them down until they bottom out and given them a little bit/tiny bit/small bit of extra whatever-wouldn't ever register on a finely made torque wrench, like measuring nothing almost. Not to what I deem as putting any torque on them. Don't have to be a full time, part time, or retired gunsmith to figure that out. Not pickin on ya Coffinmaker, just sayin.

Ref taking the nipples/cones/ devices ya seat the caps on, etc, etc off when cleaning-it is time consuming, a pain the the lower posterior, and I hate doing it, BUT ya have clean nipples and a clean area of the recessed portion of the cylinder where the nipples reside and ISNOT a waste of time. You just CAN"T get the nipples and the recess area totally clean without doing so. Never been able to and I'd challenge any one who can.  I'm a clean freak when it comes to cleaning percussion revolvers after shooting them, a more harmonious outcome.
               I let the semi-auto percussion pistols go for 2-3 weeks after shooting them.

[Noz]

Cones??  Torque??  or Torque??  Cones??  Every time I put any torque on my cones, I wound up with a big lump of Ice Cream on the toe of my shoe      Gave that up right quick .. I did.  Nope, no sir ... no torque on my cones .... no way.

Here is my take after lots and lots of Cap Guns.  ZERO torque.  None.  Nada, Zip (that a gun now??).  When I build up a gun, of course I pull the OEM nipples (no embarrassment here) and put them in a safe place (like a trash can).  Then, I install Slixshot nipples with a light coat of anti-seize on the threads.  When the nipples bottom out .... I'm done.  Just "snug" with my "X" wrench.  Dat's all folks.  Nothing more is needed or recommended.

As an addendum (new wurd), when cleaning after a match ....... TA DA ...... I don't bother to pull the nipples.  Waste of time.  Washed em clean in the sink (Slix are stainless) and twist a pipe-cleaner inem and then a puff of air.  Done.  I suppose, if on inspection, something looked really wonky, I'd pull em, but that hasn't happened yet.  I do make use of a nipple pic (bent paper clip) during a match but have never needed to pull nipples.

Coffinmaker

I too use Slix but my nipples are finger tight and no more.  Never have had one attempt to back out.

[Bunk Stagnerg]

I used "cone" rather than "nipple" because i figured sure as shooting i would get some smart a$$ remark about torquing them.
 But thanks for the information that is what I have been doing.
 I remove, clean and reinstall the nipples (are you satisfied?) before a match to be sure every thing is hunky dory in the ignition department.
This morning in practice I did have one cap ignite the charge in a pop-bang mode and the cap did not split but stuck on the nipple (OK?) so tight it took a pair of pliers to finally twist it off. It was either a Remington or CCI because the capper was full of mixed caps. SlixShot brand nipple, cone,cap holder thingys that are stainless and pointy...Oh well have fun!!
OK CM Your turn

Yr' Obt' Svt'
(in a good mood)
Bunk

[Coffinmaker]

Somehow, I can't Eschew (Geshundheit) to being a clean freak.  I have no quibble with those who are.  Some just desire "Clean, Free Running and Sanitary."  I do however keep my Cap Guns clean.  Not squeaky clean mind you, but clean.  My main concern is (gasp) rust.  I hate rust so my primary focus is clean and DRY!!

Getting the last speck of stuff out of that little "cup" area that surrounds the cap is a real PITA.  I get out most of it and make sure it's dry.  This of course is just my personal thing.  When giving a profession opine or instruction inna shop, I am much more vociferous about cleanliness.  Inna past, I found some people were causing more wear to their guns through "over cleaning" than shooting.  Go figure.

More importantly, prior to a match I run a dry patch through the chambers, pic the nipples and pop a cap to insure clear, then load up.  I'm not sure the "Pop-a-Cap" part is necessary, but when your shooting Gunfighter, reliability is EVERYTHING!!

The not so Fastidious (didn't think I knew the big wurd didja)
Coffinmaker 

[Crow Choker]

Hear vont yer saying Coffinmaker, I'm not such a clean freak that I over clean,  causing excessive wear in taking apart and such, but ifin it wasn't for the black powder being a dirtier compound than smokeless, my blk power guns wouldn't get as cleaned as thoroughly. If I go hunting and do some shooting or target shootin with some of the "smokeless" guns, they will get wiped down on the out side before putting them away and may not get a bore cleanin before the next time they're shot, unless it will be a spell or I was a huntin in fowl weather. I will clean some WW2 rifles in the bore and receiver area if I'm shootin some European ammo with corrosive primers right away, but I'm not like some Ive known and heard that never clean or wipe down their guns. I used to shoot cap and ball with a guy who after cleaning all the inards and outards' of his cap and ball, would use brass polish on all the brass parts to shine em up. Now that is being a clean freak. Any whooo (as Rifle would say-need to call him some day), nice chattin witch ya!

[Bunk Stagnerg]

To Whom it May Concern,

I clean my guns after shooting (Nitro or Gun Powder) because those guns represent a very substantial investment.  Cleaning the barrel, cylinder and hammer channel is all the percussion revolvers get. They may be taken down once a year unless they swallow a cap fragment, which on my main match guns is unlikely (thanks to .45 Dragoon). The Henry or '66 gets opened up more often to clean the lifter which gets pretty gummy shooting Gun Powder in a .45 CAS (.45 short) with the blow back. The shot gun gets the barrels cleaned nothing else is needed.
The nipples get a half turn then back to be sure they are free. I am not at all anal about this cleaning thing, I figure it is just part of the fun.
I stuck a nipple in the breech block of my percussion Sharps and it was the devils own to get it out, so now the Sharps and Smith get stored nippleless (?) with those parts in a labeled box along with the Hahn conversion sleeve. That is what is called experience, something you get right after you needed it.
Yr, Obt' Svt'
Bunk

[Cliff Fendley]

Just a tip on the anti seize, the regular gray stuff works fine but if you can find it the Caterpillar copper stuff is the REAL DEAL when it comes to anti seize and especially on any parts subjected to heat.

I'm sure there are other brands using the copper base, it's not like Caterpillar makes it themselves but it's just what I have handy from my real job.

[Crow Choker]

Ya, the gray/silver stuff is what I use the most. Nasty stuff to get on your fingers or clothes-big silver spots on jeans/shirt. Have never used the copper stuff, at least not on guns.
Bunk: Not getting into a frenzy cleaning any gun after shooting any smokeless powder right after shooting will not harm any barrel or inards. If you've been shooting in any rain or snowfall I would make an exception, but a few days to a week will not harm them in any way. I treat my guns as fine instruments, I have firearms I bought back in early 70's that have been shot a lot and except for a minor scratch or light ding here/there, look new. They've been cleaned when needed, but I don't get into a lather to clean them the minute/day I get home. A good wiping of the exteriors. I may-may-may run a quick swab of Hoppe's or the like down the bore to clean later on some sometimes. My guitars get the same loving care-have some that have been around since I had a full head of hair and look almost new. Guitars get no Hoppe's #9--just 'Love Potion #9'!

[Gus Walker]

   I sure wouldnt want to meet the guy that installs the nips at the factory in a dark alley..... he has gotta be a weightlifter....lol

[Bunk Stagnerg]

Gentlemen,
Since I am in a high humidity area close to the Gulf coast, and I have time the system is shoot Saturday clean Sunday back to work on various projects Monday. Just to see what happens I left one piece of brass on inside on the bench and in a week it was starting to build up corrosion. Some .44-40 cases left outdoors accidentally in two weeks were ruined.
I suppose in low humidity areas time is not of the essence, but here in the 70% area it is.
I am not a neat freak, any one who has seen my bench top will vouch for that, it is just a matter of taking care of my stuff.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk

[Cliff Fendley]

  I sure wouldnt want to meet the guy that installs the nips at the factory in a dark alley..... he has gotta be a weightlifter....lol

It's a gorilla, same one that tightens all of Uberti screws. I believe someone else starts them and the gorilla just stands there and tightens everything as it's handed to him.

[Bunk Stagnerg]

Just turned up some of the copper anti size from my boating days. The grey stuff must be some kind of  aluminum content because is does not play well with salt water. What i used on the boat was copper based I got in a marine supply store in Puerto Rico or BVI as i recall. The tube is pretty well beat up I cannot see the brand. Might be USA made, might be European, but it worked.
Some people use grease from what I see on some uboob videos, but I will stick to copper anti size and not get stuck. (pun intended)
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk 

[Major 2]

 I use Permatex refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants.

Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant $3.99 at about any Auto parts outlet

Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant, this lubricant is ideal for marine use
Prevents galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly
Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts
Temperature range: -60F to 1600F.....

and I might add.... C&B nipples 

What is more, I bought the tube about 1 year ago....cause I have lost the tube I used some 15 years or more
others usage  may vary....just save to say,  a tiny dab X 6 each disassembly , the tube will last years...

[Coffinmaker]

Anti-Seize, a little dab will do ya ...... Use more .. Only if ya dare.

Didn't know I could sing didja 

Coffinmaker

[Bunk Stagnerg]

CM
Don't quit your day job
Bunk S