45-75 Mold Advice

[Coal Creek Griff]

I'm in the process of buying a Uberti NWMP carbine in .45-75 and I want to buy a bullet mold (mould) for it.  I've emailed to Tom at Accurate Molds.  He's been great to work with in the past and I have other molds from him that are perfect.  What I'm looking for is a bullet that mimics the early design, but with some differences.  I prefer a bullet with a nose shape that is the same, but that carries a bit more lube and has a crimp groove.  I'm a little more flexible regarding the weight, knowing that I might have to give some up to gain the extra lube.  Here is what Tom is proposing:

http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=46-345LC-D.png


By way of comparison, here is his mold that is based upon the Lyman 457192 design:

http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=46-345L-D.png


I've been involved in the design process for some other molds in the past, but I'm far from being knowledgeable, particularly regarding this particular caliber.  What are your thoughts?

Thanks for any advice that you can offer.

CC Griff

[Coal Creek Griff]

Here is the design I'm considering. I'd appreciate any comments or modifications you might suggest.

CC Griff

[larryo1]

I use custom molds made by Hoch.  I have two  that are really great.  One for the 40-82 and the other one for the 45-75.  What I did, for the 45-75 was to make a copy of the picture of the 45-75 mold out of an old Lyman book and that is what he made mine from.  It works great and I use a 16:1 alloy just as off one of the old ammo boxes indicated.  No problems.  Hoe this helps in your quest.

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[Cliff Fendley]

I have been considering ordering a 345L from him. I don't feel like I need the crimp groove.

[larryo1]

He takes alot of time to do his work but it is very well worth the wait.  Just tell him exactly what you want with or without that crimping groove.  As I said it is worth the wait and he is a little spendy but again I feel that the results that I got were well worth the wait.

[Coal Creek Griff]

I have a number of molds from Accurate Molds.  They have spoiled me against any other maker.  He's great to work with and I would have to describe his molds as perfect. He will make nearly anything you ask for within a few weeks. I have one designed by W44WCF, as well as some straight from the catalog.  Tom also helped me design a bullet for my 45 Schofield, which works great. I like the "hidden" crimp groove to make sure the bullet stays put and I like the bullet to carry plenty of lube, but I also like the loaded round to look traditional--kind of a strange set of specifications, but it works for me.

CC Griff

[Irascible]

Take a look at the 45-300 mold from Buffalo Arms Co. It is a modified 457191. The modifications are a properly located crimp groove in place of the top lube groove and the 2 lower lube grooves have been widened and probably hold as much lube as the 457191 with its t3 skinny grooves. I have on for my 45-60 and it's a bute.

[Coal Creek Griff]

I ended up with the Accurate Molds design I mentioned above.  So far, it has been flawless.

Thanks.

CC Griff

[will52100]

For smokeless I love NOE moulds, http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=42_138&products_id=279&osCsid=5544vhsktrbp01u6ksf8oq8ni1

For black powder I've got a Buffalo arms BACO mould that cast wonderful bullets, and a Lyman mould that cast the original style bullet.

The NOE is a 5 cavity aluminum mould and cast nice bullets, the BACO is iron and cast really good bullets, the Lyman is my favorite for black powder but is a PITA to get good bullets out of it.  For some reason the Lyman is more finicky than any other mould I've used, but I do like the bullet so I keep using it.

I wouldn't mind trying the accurate mould you list, it looks good and should work well.  I really wish someone made a Big Lube design for the 45-75 in a 340-350 grainer.  I've got the NWMP and no desire to shoot it much past 100 yards, 200 at the range, so an extra large nose shouldn't effect accuracy that much.

[Coffinmaker]

Actually, I've found several ways to deal with Bullet Mold.  Windex and some other glass cleaners seem to work quite well.  Simple Green is also quite effective although probably the best (so far) has been (Krap, I forget the name of it).

I did find the overall best solution (pun??  Nah!!) was to shoot the bullets up before any mold could form.  I mean, Moldy bullets just look so terrible.  Everybody at the range will point and giggle. (I think thats what there pointing at).  Then when you shoot a poor target, they all look atcha and comment how it's just got to be those moldy bullets.

There is no point in investing in a new mold.  New mold is the same ugly color as old mold.  In all actuality though, I'd just not get too worried about bullet mold.  It'll all come off goin downa barrel anyway.

Coffinmaker

[Coal Creek Griff]

I've also had trouble with bullet mildew.  Do your comments apply there?  Some of my older bullets started growing bullet moss, but I've taken care of that problem.

CC Griff

[larryo1]

I don't know about this "Mold" that you are talking about but all I have always done for the past 60 years has been to leave a bullet in the mold when done casting.  No problems.

[Coal Creek Griff]

larryo1:

I think (I hope) that Coffinmaker was being facetious, commenting on the spelling of "mold" meaning either a bullet mold/mould used to cast bullets or the fungus.  At least that was the way that I took it when I replied with my mildew and moss comments.  I have never experienced spores sprouting on my bullets... yet.

CC Griff

[Sir Charles deMouton-Black]

The first step in opening a mold is to strike the plate thingy on top so it cuts the spores cleanly.

[Coal Creek Griff]

The first step in opening a mold is to strike the plate thingy on top so it cuts the spores cleanly.

Ah, nice!  

CC Griff

[doketx]

Man, it's gettin' mighty deep here!

[Coffinmaker]

Watches UP!!  Save the watches!!  It's too late for the shoes!!

Coffinmaker