Added a S&W "Top Break" to the Collection......

[Old No7]

Folks here have seen me post before about some neat old H&R Top Breaks that I've acquired over the years, to complement the S&W No. 3 Schofield (Uberti) that I have.

Now I've started along the path of adding S&W Top Breaks to my collection.  This may be my first, but I can already tell that it probably won't be my last... 

Here's an 1883 vintage "38 Double Action, 2nd Change" in .38 S&W that I just acquired.  Yes, it's been refinished, but whoever did it, did a wonderful job.  (Half the shooters I showed it too thought it was original, but under a strong LED flashlight you can see how the blueing does look brownish.)  Some S&W Collectors on another site valued it at $250 to $275 as-is (refinished), so at $175 out the door I did OK as it is in excellent mechanical condition.









Now comes the question about shooting it...

Can I use light Trail Boss loads with lead, or use BP only???  (Cabela's had some modern 38 S&W loads with lead RN yesterday, but I don't dare use those loads in this.)

Thanks for looking!

Old No7

[Trailrider]

Cannot advise you on the powder to use. As these guns came out around the turn of the 20th Century, they can probably handle LIGHT smokeless loads. [I cannot be responsible for the results of acting on this information!]
However, just remember that these S&W's DO NOT HAVE REBOUNDING HAMMERS OR HAMMER BLOCKS! When the hammer is fully down, the firing pin WILL CONTACT THE PRIMER of a cartridge under it. Therefore, the ONLY SAFE WAY to carry it is with the hammer down on an empty chamber, making this a "four-shooter". 

[Old No7]

Understood all of your cautions, thanks.

I think I'll stick with using light BP loads.  Have read a 148 gr HBWC will obturate enough to engage the rifling.  We'll see.

You are also correct about the hammer/firing pin status, and I've read that the firing pin should be engaged between the rims of the cases in the cylinder.  I've checked this with the AZoom snap caps I got, and it does indeed work to capture the firing pin.

Tight groups.

Old No7

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[Blair]

Old No 7,

I would suggest staying with BP just to be on the safe side.
I use a light 95 gr. bullet used in 380 Auto, with 10 grs. of fffg BP. This too will help save wear and tear on a nice old revolver like the one you have.
After all, you will probably be shooting this revolver at pretty close pocket pistol ranges.
This is just a suggestion on my part.
My best,
 Blair

[Johnson Barr]

The 2nd and 3rd models were designed to be fully loaded with five rounds. The safety trick was to park the firing pin protruding from the recoil shield between two cartridge rims. Thus parked the hammer is down between the chambers and also stopped cylinder rotation until the action was cycled. Once cycled the hammer would then be down on a spent shell. As to reloading I use APP substitute BP and get my proper .38 S&W bullets in .363 diameter from www.mattsbullets.com. You have a pretty piece, enjoy shooting it. The attached pic is of my refinished 1st Model .44 DA Frontier in .44-40 caliber. I've been shooting in NCOWS Original category for the last few years. -J.Barr, S&W Collectors Asso. #2790

[Old No7]

That's a nice one!

Thanks for the heads-up about Matt's Bullets for the 38 S&W, as I've saved that link.

Old No7

[Will Ketchum]

Very nice.  I am of the opinion that for our sport nice refinished guns are the best of both worlds. They appear much as they did in their day and yet aren't worth as much as a collector piece so we can still shoot them.  I have 2 new Model Number 3s that have been refinished and make great shooters.

Will Ketchum