Although I am certain that the majority here has logged their fair share of trigger time, it's important always go back and cover the basics. There are so many would-be shooters out there who are afraid to ask basic questions and we should always be there with basic answers.
Recently, I suffered a malfunction at the shooting range. I used to cuss and get frustrated when this happened but then had a philosophical epiphany. The key to being a good frontiersman, let alone being a man who gets things done. It's what we boys (and the tomboys we love), do. I suddenly saw fixing my rifle in the same light as working on the car or building something in my workshop. Being able to skillfully get your weapon back on line in short order is just as important as fixing a saddle on the trail, fording a river and digging a wagon out of the mud. Deliciously gritty and so rewarding when you do it right....so hilarious to others when it doesn't go well. Okay, so gun repair in the field is a little more dicey...and the bloopers usually aren't funny at all. Here's a few tricks for the newcomer. As always, members are free to post their observations as well.
Below are the most common forms of malfunctions you are likely to encounter.
Short-started ball:
A shore-start is when your ball is not fully seated on your powder charge. It happens when you allow the fouling (burnt powder residue) to accumulate in your barrel to the point where it actually obstructs your ball, causing it to stick half-way down. (*Expert note: always spring your ramrod in an empty barrel when you first get your ML gun so that you know precisely how deep the barrel goes; where a properly seated ball should be; or if you have a short start.) NEVER....EVER try to shoot this out. Either your barrel will explode like a bomb (not fun when you are 15+ miles out into the mountains), or it will "walnut" or balloon out where the ball was. Either way, your barrel is ruined at the very least. What happens is that a properly seated ball accelerates with the increasing pressure of burning gas until it exits the muzzle. When a ball is short started, all that pressure reaches a tremendous speed when it impacts a barrier (the short-started ball) transforming your barrel into an IED. Solution: Pull the ball as described below.
Wet powder load:
A sudden dismount mid-stream, carelessness in a rainstorm or bad footing crossing a stream are all the likely culprits of a soaked powder charge. I've heard of some old shooters wrapping the breech in a hot towel or laying the breech of their barrels close enough to the fire where it eventually heats the moisture out but always saw the latter as an unnecessary gamble with a disastrous ground discharge being a possible outcome. Also, it will be likely that the powder is so degraded to the point where if it even does fire, it may only short-start the ball. Solution: You guessed it, pull the sucker. -see below.
Broken mainspring:
I've known some shooters to take a lit cigarette or smoldering twig to clear the charge like a matchlock weapon. Keep in mind that you are discharging a disabled gun and the potential for a dangerous outcome is high. Also, if you find yourself staring into the vent (flintlock) or cone (percussion), you may be blinded in addition to flash-burning your fingertips. Solution: I think you're following me by now. The ball's gonna get drilled right there and then. After that, use a spring-vice to swap out the broken mainspring. (Expert tip: Never use a regular wrench, pliers or C-clamp especially without a leather buffer to keep the metals seperated. Improper metal on metal contact may score the spring metal, weakening it to break again soon the same way glass cutters allow you to break glass in a straight line.)
Proper way to pull a stuck ball:
When your gun misfires, it can possibly be a slow-burning delay (hangfire). The good news is that this is dangerous only if you don't know what you are doing. When I have a misfire, I keep the barrel downrange; re-prime; and try it again. If it clearly won't shoot, first soak your cone (percussion) or vent (flintlock). Next bring your gun to the loading position with the barrel leaned away from you to the downrange position. Use a cup or canteen spout to pour a slow trickle of water down the bore to soak the charge. Let it sit for a minute. Now, affix your ball-puller to either your ramrod or service (cleaning rod), whichever is best suited to do the job. Feed it down the barrel and thump the point of the puller into the top of the ball. Press down hard while twisting (usually clockwise) until the turn really fights your hand. It is usually out of a few turns but your experience will give you a feel for it. As you pull out the rod, they rifling will naturally turn your rod. Don't fight it. Let it turn as you use steady force bringing up the ball without sharp moves if you can help it. I drenched bore will break up fouling and soak the wadding to make extraction a lot easier.
In your kit:
*Turnscrew (screwdriver): Allows you to disassemble the threaded end connections throughout the weapon. This should have a cone *wrench for removing the cone on percussion arms.
*Flint hammer (flintlock only): is used to sharpen the edges of gun flints
*vent pick: small wire tool that allows you to clear
*wiper (worm): prong cleaning head that attaches to a ramrod or cleaning rod to carry a cleaning patch or clump of tow, cedar fibers or lichen to the breech and back for the purpose of scrubbing out the barrel.
*ball-screw: used to drill into the ball and extract it from the bore.
*Spring-vice: Removes the mainspring from the lock
*Tompion: (typically in military arms) plugs the barrel to exclude foreign particles
*Tumbler and Wire Punch: used in removing furniture pins and disassembling the lock mechanism.
Please add any feedback or requests about other mishaps you've encountered.
-Dave