rebarrel a '66 yellowboy

[Professor Marvel]

greetings my good netizens -
i have a project in hand...
can i prevail upon anyone who has done a rebarrel on an uberti 1866 yellowboy to share their experiences?
I am particularly interested in tips & tricks, especially regarding pre-heat to remove secret ubertis barrel glue and/or special frame blocks and/or tales of the uberti barrel gorilla.....
yhs
prof marvel

[Blair]

Hi Pro Mar,

A few years ago I bought a '66 carbine in 44-40 with a bulged barrel (I assume from a squib load).
I am not found of carbines nor the 44-40, but the price was right.
I changed it from a carbine to a rifle in .45 Colt.
I had no problem removing the barrel. However, the new rifle barrel had a step in the threads that the original barrel did not have, So I chucked it up in the lathe and turned that down to max thread depth. After that, the new barrel screwed right in and torques up perfectly with the receiver. No head space issues either.

The rest of the rebuild was with a shot gun butt stock and original plate. Forearm had an original '73 fore cap and I put '73 rifle sights on it.
It is my favorite lever action Rifle.
Hope you find this helpful.
My best,
 Blair

[Professor Marvel]

I had no problem removing the barrel. However, the new rifle barrel had a step in the threads that the original barrel did not have, So I chucked it up in the lathe and turned that down to max thread depth. After that, the new barrel screwed right in and torques up perfectly with the receiver. No head space issues either.

Ah My Good Blair -
Thanks very much
Since Uberti has a longstanding reputation for heavily torquing pistol barrels , some Italian makers seem to use barrel glue,
this is exactly the sort of info I am seeking.

Ever Since we determined ( 6 years ago! in this thread http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,28699.0.html ) that the frame
is common brass, I have been somewhat concerned about damaging it.

I hope any others who took off an Uberti Yellowboy barrel will chime in as well.

yhs
prof marvel

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[Blair]

Pro Mar,

I will say this , I saw no evidence of a glue or other adhesive used on the threads.

I will also state that I left all the internal parts in place to help support the frame from warping or being torqued out of shape.
I did open the lever/bolt a bit, to keep any of the bolt face parts from broken.
Braking loose didn't take much... but once loose everything unscrewed by hand.
My best,
 Blair

[Coffinmaker]

My Vry Good Professor,

I can only Echo (Echo) the experiences shared by Blair.  With a Slight caveat however.  When I do/did (I retired, remember?) barrel removal on Uberti Brass Rifles, I remove(d) all the action internals and put em inna box.  Having ones fecal matter consolidated is
important.  Of course, it also helps to remember where you put the box
I then took a stick of hard maple, and cut one end to the exact dimensions as the mortice for the Carrier Block.  Some, conversant with woodworking would also call that a tennon.  I also wrapped an alle Gator clamp around the stick next to the small part to prevent splitting.  Chuck the barrel up in a padded vise, put the stick in the mortice and twist the action off the barrel.
As an addendum as it were, I have also done the dastardly deed the other way around.  Chucked the receiver in the padded vice and turned the barrel off wid a big wench - ah - er - wrench it was, yes.  I also found that method an excellent way to remove the extractor from the Breach Block.  Unintended it may have been, but, very effective.  (I don't wanna talk about it)

Coffinmaker

[Professor Marvel]

Thank You Blair and CoffinM -

since this is in fact my only lever action, being a scardy cat cautious sort, i am loathe to mess it up if i can help it.

say, coffinmaker - did i mention that you're getting to be a lot of fun since retirement?

yhs
prof amravel

[Coffinmaker]

Professor Marvel,

Yes.  You have made mention of that.  In the future, I shall endeavor to continue to amuse, as well a provide a lotion .... er .. solution.

Coffinmaker