Trim length when cutting copper rivets for rounding over?Best tool to cut rivet?

[Tallbald]

I have begun using #9 solid copper rivets for some belt key ring carrier applications and want to use them in some knife sheaths. Quick, attractive and rugged, I've made costly mistakes a number of times when I used wire cutters to trim the rivet shank to length in preparation for rounding over.
 I've done several searches here and on Youtube looking for answers without finding anything clear.

1). I'm using #9 rivets that measure 0.156 inch in diameter on the shank. How long do I leave the protruding shank when    I cut the excess off, in order to get a nice mushroomed expansion?

2). I've been using just the wire cutter section of needle nose pliers to cut the rivet and of course it leaves a sharp chisel point that has to be rounded over. Should I be using a different cutting tool to cut the excess shank? Should I use a file to square the shank end before rounding?

3). My rivet setter is from Springfield Leather. There's a drilled blind hole in one side of the setting tool that snugly fits the diameter of the rivet shank. Is this drilled hole a gauge of some type?

I appreciate help in learning these things so very much. My wife has our camera out of town with her or I would share a photo of the drilled hole. Thanks. Don.

[Camano Ridge]

Don, when I do a copper rivet and burr (and I do quite a few) I use nail nippers ($6.00 from Harbor freight) I put the faqce of the cutter tight against the burr the angle of the cutter leaves just about the right length of shaft after cutting. WHen cutting the shaft I do not cut all the way through in one bite. I take a sloight cut then rotate the cutter around the shaft about 1/4 turn take another bite and keep working around the shaft until I cut all the way through. You are left with a pyrmid type shape that domes nicely.

The hole in the setting tool is for setting the burr. Set the burr on the shaft place the hole in the setting tool over the shaft use a hammer or maul ect. to tap the burr down over the shaft tight against the leather. Now place the domming part of the setting tool (the little divet part) over the nub that was left after cutting. Beware some tools have a larger deeper dome then others. Start rapping the tool with your maul or what ever, as you rap on it turn the tool a little at a time you will end up with anice smooth dome. Some people like to flatten it out, I prefer the little dome. If you do a search on the web for settin copper rivets and burr you willl find some you tube videos that show the process pretty well. The most important thing is to have a good hard surface behind the rivet. If you have access to an anvil use that behind your rivet. The steps are basically the same however many people will have other tricks or their spin on the technique.

Hopefully this is clear enough to understand.

[Tallbald]

Camano Ridge thanks for the help. My rivet tool has an extra drilled hole on the side of the flattened working end of it. It is a blind hole maybe 3/16 inch deep and the shaft of the rivet fits perfectly down into it. I wondered if it was a gauge hole to show me if I need to trim more shaft off. I wish I had our camera and could post a photo.
 I see the advantages of the rotated partial cut method. That sure would take care of the chisel end issue.  I don't have a nail cutter right now though. Is there a rule of thumb like maybe "leave the shaft trimmed as long as the rivet shaft diameter is thick...." or something. My problem has been it's a one shot deal. Either I guess right and get a handsome dome or I mess up, bend the rivet or find I cut off too much and have to fight to get the messed up rivet out and start over. Thanks as always. Don

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[Camano Ridge]

Tall bald this should help you. 3/16" would be way to long. it should below 1/8" closer to 1/16" The hole on the side actualy reaches over to the shaft hole on the tool.

Instructions:
Push the rivet threw the hole then turns the material over. Place the burr or washer on the rivet, then use the rivet setter’s straight hole to drive the burr down against the material. Cut the rivet off close to the burr with side or end nippers. Do not cut off flush with the burr, but leave about 1/16 of an inch above the burr. The hole on the side of the rivet setter can be used to dislodge any waste that is wedged into the tool. Place the concave recess of the setter on the burr. Hold perpendicular and strike the end of the setter forcefully, turning to the left then right as you strike. This spreads the end of the rivet over the burr simultaneously rounding its end. A few extra blows from a soft faced mallet can be used to flatten the rivet end a bit, if desired.

[Tallbald]

Perfect and again I thank you. I will though wait until tomorrow morning to do any more on my projects. I want to be fresh when I try riveting again. Thanks so much. Don

[Graveyard Jack]

That's what I do. The beveled edge of the cutters leaves just enough to round over without being too long. I have to say that the 3 tool set works much better than the all in one.