1860/1866 toggle issue

[Wagon Box Willy]

I had a working Uberti 1866 that I purchased new in 2009.  I purchased a used Uberti 1860 Henry (about 1999 vintage) last year.  I was having some trouble with the Henry in that the firing pin extension would bind a bit with the action closed.  After some playing with it I decided to try the toggles from my 66 and it worked perfectly...and continues to work perfectly.

Putting the Henry toggles in the 66 it seemed to also work fine so I chalked it up to tolerances.  Anyway my 66 just started having problems extracting...it looks like the bolt doesn't go far enough so the top extractor doesn't actually firmly grab the rim.  It doesn't snap onto it unless you press on it and then it snaps on and you can see the bolt move.

Now if I take the toggles from the Henry which really belong in the 66 the 66 works like a champ...but I cant put the original Henry toggles back in the Henry or I'm back to my original Henry problem of a binding firing pin extension.

So I guess my question is whether you think that if I purchased a new set of toggles (not cheap) they'd be closer in size to the newer 66 toggles and solve my problem?

 I don't see another way around this unless you know of some secret or it's really an extractor issue..

Thanks
  Willy

[Pettifogger]

I'm not 100% sure what you are talking about.  Are you talking the firing pin extension is binding when the gun is empty and you are pushing on it with your finger?  Or is it hard to close the action when chambering a round because the firing pin extension is binding? Or is it something else?  Are you sure it is the firing pin extension?

P.S.  What is the diameter of the Henry firing pin extension?

[Wagon Box Willy]

Round chambered and if I push the pin in it will bind and not spring back until I move the lever.  I was having some light strikes that I attributed to this because of the extra pressure required to move the pin.  Lightened mainspring.  not sure if a full house mainspring was be the same.

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[Pettifogger]

OK, now some things to check.  First, take a sized deprimed case and put it in the chamber.  Close the lever and push on the pin.  If it sticks in check your extractor pressure and look at the tab on the bottom of the bolt to make sure it is not broken off or bent.  Remove the links and just push the bolt forward all the way forward until the extractor snaps over the case rim and see if the extension sticks when you push it in with the empty deprimed case in the chamber.  If it does, the take out the bolt and inspect for burrs or the bolt hole being ovaled.  You should be able to insert the extension into the bolt and twist it 360 degrees with no binding.  If the 66 links work fine in the 66 and you put the Henry links in and the extractor isn't snapping over the rim that means the Henry links are slightly shorter and you are increasing the head space on your 66.  You don't want to do that.  Again, what is the diameter of the firing pin extension?  Take a caliper, lower the lever so it is sticking out of the receiver and measure it.

[Wagon Box Willy]

Thanks Pettifogger,

After even further inspection I believe that the Henry links are shorter thereby increasing the head space on the 66....and causing the binding on the Henry
Since the original 66 links work in the 66 and 60 and the Head space looks fine with them, I guess I can assume that new or used links from a 66 will resolve the problem.

Maybe I'll do a WTB on the Wire and see what is offered, perhaps someone has an extra set.

[Pettifogger]

Funny, I've asked you twice for the measurement of the firing pin extension OD and for some reason you have refused to provide that number.  There is (was) a reason I am asking.  At this point, good luck.

[Wagon Box Willy]

Pettifogger, sorry for not responding.  I guess I fixated on your confirmation that the links were too short.

Anyway, both the '60 and '66 are .350

[Pettifogger]

Then you should be OK.  The early Henry's had a .395 firing pin extension (and matching bolt).  When Uberti started making 73s they standardized as many parts and machining operations as possible between the Henry, 66 and 73.  One of the things they did was make all the firing pin extensions the same OD and they standardized the bolts.  The links for all three were also made the same.  I am not sure of the date the transition occurred.  But your 1990 production year was close enough I wanted to check before you got to far with your project.  This dimension is important because there are no replacement parts for the old models.  (I know because I have an old one disassembled in a shoe box.  I will have to make a couple of parts I need to get it back in operation.)

[Wagon Box Willy]

Thanks, and I looked up the date, it's a 1999 model year.  I have one set of links comin so hopefully that will resolve the issue.

Interestingly the links in the Henry have a welded link pin...not so in the 66.

[Cliff Fendley]

I would think with all the short strokes being installed factory links would not be too hard to come by.

[Fox Creek Kid]

...This dimension is important because there are no replacement parts for the old models.  (I know because I have an old one disassembled in a shoe box.  I will have to make a couple of parts I need to get it back in operation.)

Pettifogger, I know I have probably asked you before but is there any way to convert older Uberti bolts to their modern (MKII?) version?