Uberti 1875 ejector rods keep bending/breaking

[Wagon Box Willy]

I just went to the lock-up and checked mine.  the ejector rod runs very smoothly all the way to the bottom of the spring.  I suspect you might be having a problem at the hole through the guide in the right side of the frame, through which the ejector rod travels.  On my revolver, there is lots of clearance...maybe yours needs opening up a titch.  I have removed cartridges that were jammed in the cylinder, by placing the button you describe against a bench or a tree and bashing on the butt, without damaging the rod or the button.  I'm happy to be past that part of my reloading learning curve.

Thanks for the comment.

This is clearly an issue of the tenon which connects the head not being substantial enough to take everyday use.  It may have been different on older guns but on the new rods, the tenon is at best 3/32", probably a little less and coupled with soft metal just doesn't (in my case) hold up to ejecting even 100 BP cases.

I recieved some O1 rod which I may grind a tenon on but also just thought about adding a gusset between the rod and the nut.  That may prove to be both easier and stronger in the long run.

It's clear by my experience that the current crop of replacement ejectors are not up to the task.  I do have an "old stock" ejector coming from EMF so I will compare it to one of the new ones.

The other item I'd love to see enhances is the hand assembly.  I use 2 of those a year (usually at the most inopertune times ).  It would be nice to be able to just replace the spring like you can on an 1858.  I had heard that someone had them modified to use paino wire but I'ne not been able to find a source for that.

[St8LineLeatherSmith]

You can make a trigger spring for the 58 and 75 models with piano wire and a set of Higley wire benders.
Bob Munden should be recognized for iusing the piano wire trigger bolt spring in his action jobs.
you could also use piano wire to make an ejector rod that i guarantee will not break.

[MJN77]

This is clearly an issue of the tenon which connects the head not being substantial enough to take everyday use.  It may have been different on older guns but on the new rods, the tenon is at best 3/32", probably a little less and coupled with soft metal just doesn't (in my case) hold up to ejecting even 100 BP cases.

I recieved some O1 rod which I may grind a tenon on but also just thought about adding a gusset between the rod and the nut.  That may prove to be both easier and stronger in the long run.

It's clear by my experience that the current crop of replacement ejectors are not up to the task.  I do have an "old stock" ejector coming from EMF so I will compare it to one of the new ones.

The other item I'd love to see enhances is the hand assembly.  I use 2 of those a year (usually at the most inopertune times Smiley).  It would be nice to be able to just replace the spring like you can on an 1858.  I had heard that someone had them modified to use paino wire but I'ne not been able to find a source for that.

I have a new (bought last year) 1890 remington copy in 44-40 and have had no issues at all with the ejector rod. The hand spring broke and I replaced it with a piece of a bobby pin. Works quite well. On another thread you mention that a full BP load will cause your cylinder pin to release and jam your gun. I have had no problems with full BP loads in mine and that's all I shoot. I used to own a twenty year old 1875 remmie and had none of these problems with that one either. Honestly, it sounds like your particular gun has a QC problem.

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[St8LineLeatherSmith]

he's got two of them with the same problem.

[MJN77]

Still doesn't mean it isn't bad QC. Heck, the 1890 I bought new last year had a barrel that you could unscrew with your hand.  Like I said, I have been shooting remington replicas for almost twenty years and have never had any problems with ejector rods breaking or cylinder pins coming loose with full BP loads. All of the 75/90 remmies I have owned, seven over the years in both .45 and .44-40, have been fantastic and tough shooters, and full BP loads is all I shoot out of them. Only thing to ever break on any of them is the trigger or hand spring which is a simple fix. In fact I just bought another (used) 75 replica that should be delivered to the gun shop today. 7 1/2 .44-40 with a nickel finish.

[St8LineLeatherSmith]

I have only had these two 1875 clones for several years with no problems.

[Wagon Box Willy]

So I think figured it out.  It has nothing to do with ejecting the shells, it's the recoil.  The ejector is slamming forward and bending the nut until it siezes on the cylinder pin or breaks.  Totally explains why I just had one rod (head still in the gun) fall off as I shot a stage.

Maybe they made the spring lighter??

I soldered some gussets, I'm going to try and find a heavier spring...any suggestion...from a colt maybe?

The crude drawing attached tries to depict how the head is bending from being slammed into the end of the ejector housu\ing and binding oon the cylinder pin.

[Wagon Box Willy]

MJN77,

I've actually not shot 44-40 but I do cram a good 40 gr of BP into my cases and compress them quite a bit with my Big Lube JP-200's and while they won't knock the pin out every time once a match is enough to cause me to lighted the load.  I shoot that load in my 60 and 66.

My normal pistol load is about 24 gr so that's not much yet I will bend an ejector enough to cause it to bind after about 8 or 10 stages......It has to be the springs I'm thinkin'

[MJN77]

MJN77,

I've actually not shot 44-40 but I do cram a good 40 gr of BP into my cases and compress them quite a bit

So do I. 40gr. of 3F under a 200gr. RNFP lead bullet. I have fired up to a box of shells at a time and have never had the cylinder pin come loose. I hate that you're having these kinds of stupid little problems with your shooters. It can be a pain in the butt. Hope you get it figured out.

[St8LineLeatherSmith]

So I think figured it out.  It has nothing to do with ejecting the shells, it's the recoil.  The ejector is slamming forward and bending the nut until it siezes on the cylinder pin or breaks.  Totally explains why I just had one rod (head still in the gun) fall off as I shot a stage.

Maybe they made the spring lighter??

I soldered some gussets, I'm going to try and find a heavier spring...any suggestion...from a colt maybe?

The crude drawing attached tries to depict how the head is bending from being slammed into the end of the ejector housu\ing and binding oon the cylinder pin.

yo
it very well could be a stiffer spring could be the cure if recoil is indeed the problem.

[Wagon Box Willy]

So now I'm not sure.  I put a piece of tape behind the ejector rod so I could see what's going on and fired off some rounds...it didnt move so recoil is not the problem.

I called VTI Gun parts and Jim said that he has heard of issues like mine caused by the head rubbing on the holster and bending.  I checked my holsters and that doesn't seem to be the case but I'm expanding them a bit now just in case.  Nothing seems to make sense the more I investigate since the head would have to bend in the opposite direction from what it doing if it was indeed me shoving gthe guns into my holsters.

I'm now heading off for a weekend in the woods with my granddaughters and will worry more about it next week.

Thanks  for all the comments.

[St8LineLeatherSmith]

ya I can see where that can cause problems
 when I make a holster for a 1875 I open up the barrel end a bit more for the ejector rod and nut to have plenty of room for a fall in fit.
you dont want any drag or obstruction in the holster that will catch the nut on that part of the pistol removeing and replacing the pistols should be a smooth easy transition
 
I would add that it should not require very much force at all to eject a spent cartridge certanly way less than it would take to bend or brake the rod.
but anyway have a great camping experience with your grand children!

[Wagon Box Willy]

Two matches since my last post and I haven't had any issue.  I did make room in the holster for the ejector so hopefully that's that.

[Rabbit]

Hello Forum,
I am a new member and I am having this issue with my 1875 Remington revolver.
I believe it is caused by me working the ejector with some "push", and when the ejector head hits the front of the frame, the ejector rod cutout is overriding the cut out in the cylinder base pin. This is causing the ejector rod to flex at the ejector head, and after awhile, the ejector rod fails.
I ordered a new ejector rod from VTI, it works just fine. I believe if I just don't push the ejector rod all the way to the frame, I will be good. I am considering making a new ejector rod and cutting the cutout an extra half inch or so to see if my theory is correct. Then the ejector rod would be able to go all the way to the frame and not override the cutout in the cylinder pin.
Rabbit

[Wagon Box Willy]

Rabbit, after trying everything over the course of 3 seasons I finally found the culprit and fix.  The holsters were causing the issue.  I wet them and used dowels to stretch the leather so that the ejector tab wasn't rubbing or being pressed against the holster....problem solved.

[Rabbit]

Hello Wagon Box Willy,
I DO carry my Remington 1875 in a holster, if you are right, that is a easy fix! I will give it a try, thanks for the information.
Rabbit

[russ1943]

Had the same problem with an EMF 1875 44-40, the Problem was 2 fold, 1 the threading in the barrel for the screw holding ejector assembly was  bad,  not on the correct angle causing the assembly to loosen up, thus bending the ejection rod when used. The answer was soldering a nut, into the barrel like Colt SAA , so the proper angle was achieved, also shorting the rod a hair so it would not touch the rear of the frame.  The holster was never problem.  All the bluing on the ejector "button" is gone from holster wear.  The problem was poor QC. There is also a hair line space between the web and the frame, another sign of poor alignment and threading of the hole in the barrel, it only took EMF 5 tries to solve the problem