Straight Border

[Uncle Chan]

All,

For what seems forever, I've been trying to figure out how those simple straight borders are put on holsters, belts, etc.  I've heard many say that basically, what you do is use your leather knife to cut a line about 1/8 inch wide, then bevel the line.  I've done that dozens of times but nothing looks finished.  Every one has that "cut" and beveled look.  I wish I had a better way of explaining it....

uncle Chan

[Silver Creek Slim]

Like what is on the top of these?
BTW, click on the pic and it will enlarge.

Slim

[Marshal Will Wingam]

To cut a wide border evenly, even around corners, with a swivel knife there is an adjustable guide you can get that will screw onto the blade and give you a good cut at whatever distance you care to set it. See the first photo.

I use two different types of tools for this. There is an edger for creasing a bead at the edge of the leather to give it a more finished look. See the second photo.


I'm not sure where to get these, but most good leather tool suppliers should have them. I got mine years ago from Tandy.

[Advertising]

[Uncle Chan]

Slim, that is exactly what I'm talking about.  Did you use a gouger for that?

Marshall, thanks for the information.  i do woodworking and could easily fabricate the swivel knife guide.  As for the creaser, i have one of those and must be doing something seriously wrong because I can't seem to get it to look nice and finished.  Perhaps my leather is too dry?  too wet?  I just don't know.  i've a big project I'm working on for a friend and I want it to look finished and semi-professional.  Guess I'd best keep working at it. 

uncle chan

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Uncle Chan, howdy!

There is another tool (the name escapes me) that Tandy & C.S.Osborne sells and has an adjustable blade that cuts a thin gouge.

I just looked in my 2006 Tandy Catalog #180 and they don't show that tool.  The 2 I have were given to me.  They are Osborne tools.  They're also not listed in an old Mast (bought out by Weaver) catalog.

Sorry I couldn't help more.

Well, Rats!  I just checked Osborne's website and they no longer list the tool.

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Double Rats!

I just went and looked at my tools.  They're NOT Osborne tools and aren't marked with the maker's name!

Well, I wasn't any help, was I?!

Mayhaps I can give you a chuckle for bothering to read my worthless post.

A city feller was sitting in the shade near a dirt farm road.  Along came a farmer dragging about 25 feet of heavy chain.  The city feller asks:  "How come you're draggin' that chain?"

To which the farmer replied:  "Didya ever try to push one?!"

[Uncle Chan]

Steel Horse Bailey, sir, you've more than redeemed yourself with that one! 

Thanks for the assist!

Perhaps you are thinking something like this?  http://www.csosborne.com/NO128.HTM

or like this one from Tandy?

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Perhaps my leather is too dry?  too wet?

It should be the same wetness you would use for tooling. Damp through, but still firm. If you bear down on it and go over it a second time, it should almost polish the edge when it creases it. Practice on a few scraps and you'll get the hang of it.

[E.R.Beaumont]

Howdy Pards.

Uncle, Pard if you are talking about cutting a grovr there is a tool called a, stitch groover, or something close.  If you just want to scribe a line evenlu around your border use a pair of dividers.  One leg on the work piece and one leg up against the edge.  MIght want dividers with a screw adjustment.  I hope this helps.
Regards Beaumont

[Steel Horse Bailey]

Howdy again, Uncle C!

No,  the tool is similar to the tool in the picture that Marshal Will posted.  His is a swivel knife with an adjustable arm so you can cut a border using the "arm" as a spacer that keeps it even.  You put the tool "arm" on the edge of the leather, then it cuts a very even border gouge.  My tools are essentially similar, but opposite in function.  The "arm" on mine has a very small cutting hole and the center shaft of the tool rides along the outside edge, which makes it all the same spacing. 

I'm just a beginning leather crafter, but I have LOTS of experience "sidewalk supervising" my buddy who is the saddle maker pro.  I have helped him a bit, but it's been on the metal working end of it.  (I polished out some brass "Ds" and fancy conchos on a very expensive [$4500 plus!] saddle he made for one of his customers and have done other minor metalwork for him as well.)

Back when he had more time, he also built my gun rig. I have a cartridge belt w/ R&L side holsters; a set of Slim Jims that the right side can either hang straight as a strong side holster, or canted for a crossdray type; cuffs; SASS badge holder; and other projects that he crafted for me.   He made a nearly identical copy for display purposes of the Menea holster that is featured on the front cover of "Packing Iron."  After a couple or 3 years, he finally broke down and sold it to me.  This was not long after 9-11 and the bottom pretty much fell out of the business, so he needed the money.  His business (and others - especially in this area) STILL haven't recovered well.

[Rap Scallion]

Howdy Pards.

Uncle, Pard if you are talking about cutting a grovr there is a tool called a, stitch groover, or something close.  If you just want to scribe a line evenlu around your border use a pair of dividers.  One leg on the work piece and one leg up against the edge.  MIght want dividers with a screw adjustment.  I hope this helps.
Regards Beaumont

Cigars to Marshall Will and E R!  Two ways to do it......One with a stitching groover which acutally cuts a groove down into the leather, usually used for hand stitching/sewing this groove is for the awl to go through and the stitching to lay down in.  I sure don't think that cutting with a swivel knife around the edge of a holster is the way to go to duplicate this.  Too much chance of cutting through the holster at a very critical point!   The other way, which is better IMHO,  is to use the adjustable creaser....this method just puts a deep crease into the leather and doesn't, or shouldn't cut into it.  The idea is to get a nice parralle line around the edge. It does give the piece a professional look,  like beveled and finished edges!  I started out doing it with a groover until I got some advice from a saddler.  The crease should be put into the leather just as any other tooling, while damp after "casing", just like stamping or carving!

[Uncle Chan]

Thanks all.  I've an adjustable creaser and a stitch groover.  I've worked hard with the creaser and don't like what I've seen. I guess I just need to keep practicing.

Thanks All,

UC

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I've never had much success using an adjustable creaser, either. I prefer a more crisply defined edge. Both the stitch groover and the swivel knife, if used correctly, only cut into the top grain where there is no strength. That's where all the tooling is done, too. I use both on my work where applicable. Notice the border design on this holster. I cut the line between the border and the background with the swivel knife using the guide I showed in an earlier post. I used a stitch groover to cut the groove so the stitch line would be laid evenly just below the surface. Neither is cut into the leather deeper than the top grain. I finished the outside edge with an edger and used a smaller edger along the line cut with the swivel knife to give a more finished look to the border. Rap Scallion is correct that everything should be done when the leather is cased for tooling with the exception of the stitch groove which is usually done after the leather is dry.

[Slowhand Bob]

Stitch groovers, gougers an such remove a trough of leather where as the blade of your carving knife will cut the line.  Some of the catalogs actually carry a specialty swivel knife blade that mimicks a beader by cutting a double line that is domed in between like the beeder.

[Uncle Chan]

Slowhand Bob,

I have one of those blades you are referring to.  It is ceramic and costs a might purty penny.  Unfortunately, it is little more than a double bladed knife.  I've tried it at all angles and all pressures, trying to find that perfect bead.  No luck yet, but I'm not going to give up! 

Uncle Chan

[Marshal Will Wingam]

I got this good question from Uncle Chan and, with his permission, am posting my reply here so others can read it.

Would you be willing to send me  pic or two of the edgers you use?  Your pics in the "straight line" string are great, and the edge you have along the border is precisely what I"m looking to reproduce.  I'm using Tandy edgers #2 & #3 and I can't get them into a groove to edge the inside.

Here are a couple photos of the edgers I use. The large one is a #3 and the small one is probably a #1, but I had to modify it some to be able to get into the tight places I wanted, probably the same thing you're running into now. I filed the sides off to make the creasing edges sharper to get a more defined line. In the process, the size number disappeared but there appears only to be room for a 1 there. At any rate, the thing is about half the size of the other one. I have a #5 and it's about twice the width of the #3 so that seems to bear that out, assuming there's any logic to their sizing. I also pushed the tip further into the handle to make it easier to work with. You may have to drill the center hole a bit deeper to be able to do that without cracking the handle. I see the sides are also  angled differently, but I probably only did that to get the groove an even depth all the way along it. I can really get that one in tight places without needing to tip it too far back.

The #3 is the one I use for the outer edges of the holster and the small one is what I use against the cut I made with the swivel knife. After I use the small edger, I then stamp the border. After that, I carefully go over the beaded edge once again to sharply define it. See my photo above to see the result.

[Kaboom Andy]

howdy pards,
I'm interested in a creaser too. I saw on the osborn site that they produce the "creaser n°21" in five measure..........but who sell them?

http://www.csosborne.com/NO21.HTM

TY

[Rap Scallion]

Hi Again Pards..........

Thanks for that pic Marshal Will!  Looks really great!

<< I prefer a more crisply defined edge. Both the stitch groover and the swivel knife, if used correctly, only cut into the top grain where there is no strength.>>

After ruining a 1911 holster, I was making, with a swivel knife edge definition cut,     I got a little gun shy about cutting with my knife along the edge particularly when sewing and cutting a stitching groove too.  I guess that I need to grab them boot straps and pull reall good and get back on that knife.  I really like that picture that you have for an example.

Cutting and building with cowhide is just like shooting!  Ya wanna get better at it ya gotta practice!

[Marshal Will Wingam]

Cutting and building with cowhide is just like shooting!  Ya wanna get better at it ya gotta practice!

Isn't that the truth. You never can get too much practice.

[Nolan Sackett]

howdy pards,
I'm interested in a creaser too. I saw on the osborn site that they produce the "creaser n°21" in five measure..........but who sell them?

http://www.csosborne.com/NO21.HTM

TY

the following folks carry the full-line of Osborne tools - if it's not in their on-line store give them a shout.
Mid Continent Leather Sales Company
26450 E. 11th
Coweta, OK 74429
(918) 486-2900
(800) 926-2061
http://www.midcontinentleather.com/

When using an edge creaser heat the "blade" using a candle or an alcohol lamp. They DO NO need to be hot, just warmed and keep a clean rag handy to wipe off any soot before using it. Warming it will help define the line - also it's the way the "old timers" did it..........

PS practice on scrap and yes you do it when the leather is cased (aka damp NOT sopping wet..........)