Author Topic: Whassamada my gun .... ? (Read 5294 times)

PJ Hardtack · « **on:** February 16, 2014, 04:23:59 PM »

Went to the range today with my Uberti .44 Russian to shoot some loads with Tin Star and didn't pop a primer - literally.
Not a primer was struck by the firing pin!

Prior to getting my Star-line .44 Russian brass, I was using cut down Star-Line .44 Spl. and had the occasion poor ignition resulting in a blooper.

Looking at the gun, the tip of the firing pin is barely protruding through the face of the recoil shield. I believe there is a transfer bar included in the design. If so, can I remove it to fix the problem?

Blair · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2014, 04:43:42 PM »

PJ,

I don't know if this will help, but, in my repro S&W's, I removed the hammer block safety very first thing.
Once I did that, I had no issue with ignition or rough or course trigger pull. I simply never shot them with that system engaged in the action.
My best,
Blair

Pettifogger · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2014, 05:23:59 PM »

Yes, remove it. The hammer block safety is not terribly reliable because of the way it works (or doesn't in many cases).

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PJ Hardtack · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2014, 07:03:10 PM »

Thank you, gentlemen!

Looks like I have a little gunsmithing project tomorrow. Any problems getting off the side plate? I've tapped those off on several modern DA S&W's.

Blair · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2014, 07:34:39 PM »

PJ,

Side plate screws should not be a problem. They can be an issue, but a tap with a hammer on the driver that fits the screw, should work fine.
The trick is to get the hammer out... with the hand compressed to the point that allows the hammer to be removed. Then one can get access to the removal of "safety block & spring".
My best,
Blair

Pettifogger · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2014, 08:40:08 PM »

Definitely do not pry the side plate as you will 100% mar it. Usually after the screws are out you can smack the opposite side with a plastic or hard rubber hammer and it will pop out.

Mike · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2014, 10:59:46 PM »

We had one were the fireing pin was to short, I took another gun and removed the hammer put it in the gun that would not fire and Bang every time with only primers. Got a replacement hammer fixed the problem.

rdstrain49 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 17, 2014, 08:43:47 AM »

I think Mike is right on the money. The hammer block holds the hammer just ahead of the half cock notch, much further to the rear than OP is describing. I'd probably try it without the hammer block anyway, just because.

Mike · « **Reply #8 on:** February 17, 2014, 11:16:15 AM »

Made no diferance on the the one I sorted..
What is interesting these guns have been Proof fired by law in Europ.

rdstrain49 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 17, 2014, 12:09:34 PM »

You are right, I forgot about required proofing. Now I'm really confused, but that doesn't take much anymore.

Pettifogger · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2014, 01:57:40 PM »

What does proofing have to do with the hammer block? They can cock and fire the proof shot(s) but that doesn't mean several hundred rounds later the thing won't go out of whack. Junk it. It is very finicky and malfunctions on a lot of guns.

PJ Hardtack · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2014, 04:58:27 PM »

I've got Chicoine's books, so dismantling the Russian was not daunting. Hard part was breaking the screws which were installed by the famous Uberti 'gorilla' bench worker.
Holding the gun firmly in padded jaws and tapping with a hammer on a properly fitted screwdriver worked the charm. Tapping with a plastic mallet on the reverse dropped the sideplate without a hitch.

I didn't follow Chicoine's steps for removal of the hammer block. I found it easier to back off the strain screw and remove the hammer spring in order to facilitate removal of the hammer and hand assembly.

Having put the other parts back together, cocking and lowering the hammer, I don't see a lot more of the firing pin tip protruding past the recoil shield. Snapping it doesn't make it protrude any further.

I may have a short pin, but won't know until I fire it.

Pettifogger · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2014, 06:30:09 PM »

Pretty easy to measure firing pin protrusion on a Schofield because the barrel folds out of the way. Normal firing pin protrusion is usually between .050" and .055"

PJ Hardtack · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2014, 07:00:58 PM »

I've got .050.5 (1-32") as close as I can measure. That sure doesn't look like much and it didn't increase when I removed the hammer block.

Looks like I may be in the market for a new hammer from VTI. Getting one from the Uberti Canada rep would take longer than I'm willing to wait.

Mike · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2014, 11:03:22 PM »

It will be the fireing pin is to short,
Ok, these guns are proofed by law in europe, this mean your gun was not proofed or as I belive Uberti proof the guns before they are finished, some one has over polished your fireing pin and the one I had to fix.
I was not talking about the Block, that is another matter.

PJ Hardtack · « **Reply #15 on:** February 18, 2014, 11:37:23 AM »

VTI's price on a new hammer is $135 !!!

That is utterly outrageous. So - what say the experts as an alternative solution to my firing pin problem?

Mike · « **Reply #16 on:** February 18, 2014, 11:41:14 AM »

Send it back to the importer, Uberti now there has been a problem before

PJ Hardtack · « **Reply #17 on:** February 18, 2014, 12:38:49 PM »

I just popped 6 primers without a hitch. In the process I became aware of another problem on one chamber - over rotation.

Turns out there was a slight burr on one ratchet position, the one with the hole for the ejector star pin. That's been dealt with.

Sending the gun to the Canadian Uberti people is out of the question. last time I did that, it took three months to get the gun back!

I think I'm going to like this gun eventually. It seems to work that way with the guns I have issues with at first. And I do like the archaic look of the Russian.

I'll prove it this evening with live ammo.

Pettifogger · « **Reply #18 on:** February 18, 2014, 07:52:12 PM »

The hammer block is a weird device. If you lower the hammer and it is retracted the firing pin protrusion will be the same whether the block is in or out of the gun. If works when the hammer is falling and can slow the hammer or cause a light hit and then appear normal when you are just cocking and letting down the hammer. .050 should be fine. If the gun works with the hammer block out you don't have a problem.

PJ Hardtack · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2014, 11:24:22 AM »

Yup, proved that last night. But - I now have another issue.

The cylinder is not properly indexing. I think that (a) the locking bolt notches are too shallow, or (b) the locking bolt is not coming up high enough. I have to give the cylinder a little boost to lock up.

This gun is becoming a challenge .....

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Author Topic: Whassamada my gun .... ? (Read 5294 times)

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