Take a 7/8 by 1 3/8 14gauge narrow rimmed bushing from the hardware and file to fit around the ring on the recoil shield and.......
Cut it away where need be,like where the hammer recess is and where the loading port is and..........
Solder it in place so it protects the ring on the frame that can't take the cylinders recoil without peening........
Stone the nipples/cones by the thickness of the new lil steelbackplate so the caps don't recoil into it and all chainfire.......
In that modification the brass framer can last almost indefinitly with normal loads like 22gr, FFFg in the 36cal. and like 25-27gr. FFFg in the 44cal.
Don't let the gun get a loose wedge or let the arbor get loose without fixing that or a premature break down will happen from shooting a Colt type with loose parts.
I have a brass framer by San Marcos/ CVA since around the later eighties and fire it with hot loads at times and it's still tight because of the lil steel backplate that protects that ring behind the cylinder on the recoil shield/frame.
Never had a loose arbor yet and I've tested FFFg 777 inn the gun with up to 27gr. and it held up.....except the steel backplate got loose from it's solder and I re-did that to fix the plate to the frame.
If a brass framer gets a loose arbor stop shooting it till that is fixed by setting the shoulder back or a shim ,and then maybe some thread locker if ya want to,to re-tighten that danged arbor.
Chances are if you don't shoot the gun if it gets a little loose somewhere and fix that looseness before continuing to fire the gun it'll last a very long time.
All brass framers don't get a loose arbor. The loose arbor thing comes mostly from letting the cylinder gap get large and still firing the gun.
Doing the lil backplate thing with the narrow rimmed bushing is almost undedectable when the cylinder is on and the gun together.
Get a new brass framer.....do the solder on the bushing trimmed and cones shortened and all thing .....and...... the gun will last.Just don't shoot it if anything gets loose. That advise goes for any Open Top Colt.
I've never had any loose to my brass framer in all these years and, believe me, I've shot the ever livin crap outta that pistol for about 25 years.
Never fired it till I installed the plate. I learned with the first one I ever had that without that fix the guns will almost always breakdown. Some brass is harder than others and the ones I've had of brass were San Marcos which I believe are the softest of the brass framers.
I've done the lil steel backplate for others on thier brassers and their guns are still going....at least the ones I still know of.
The steel backplate fix takes several hours to do with the clean up of the solder and shortening the nipples and all.
All the lil plate does is spread the force of the cylinders recoil out to more brass than that narrow thin ring on the frame that gets six indentations from the six parts of steel between the six nipples.
One of the gunsmiths or craftsmen hangin out here should do a tutoral ( solder on the lil steel plate and stone the nipples on a drill press)with some pics and sticky it in the gunsmith place so people can see that and use the info since I'm about typed out to death and may be pushin up daiseys some day and won't be able to post this from there.
The rather small job is worth the trouble since it makes brass framers really last and....to begin with the brassers are cheaper to buy and just as good as steel with this modification.