detachable collars - use and durability - recommendations?

[Octagonal Barrel]

Lots of banded collar shirts on the market are capable of taking detachable collars. I'm wondering whether anyone on this forum uses them.

My questions would be:
1) Do you use one, and if so what style?
2) When do you use it (i.e., when you're shooting, save it for events after the shooting day is over, strictly for historical re-enactment, etc.)?
3) What one do you use?
4) How long has yours lasted?
5) What's it like to use one?  Do you like the experience of wearing one, or do you find it odd, uncomfortable, etc.?

Obviously, I have a banded collar shirt, and am thinking about getting a collar for it.  Seems like for a townsperson (maybe a sherrif, a banker, a merchant, or possibly a photographer), the detachable collar could have a place.  I personally like the collared look.  I've seen one made by Frontier Classics (I can't find any info on what it's made of), one of cotton made by River Junction, and paper ones made of Linex, Linene, and Celluloid by Amazon Dry Goods.  The Amazon Dry Goods ones are most intriguing, since they are period correct for 1860 onward, and are produced on the last period paper collar machine there is.  But being paper, they don't last forever.  I know the cotton one would usually be soaked in starch after ironing, so maybe inconvenient to prepare for use.  I've also seen references somewhere to the effect it's almost impossible to iron and starch one and get the right curve around the neck without the sort of equipment Amazon Dry Goods has, but I don't know if that's actually true or not.  I have no idea at all on the utility of the Frontier Classics one.  Hence my questions above.

Any comments on your personal experience with detachable collars, especially the ones listed above, would be of help in deciding what to get.  Heck, for that matter, the info would be just plain interesting from a historical and re-enactment perspective.  While I'm really looking for personal experience, I wouldn't be unappreciative of historical notes about collar use.  Thanks in advance.

[flyingcollie]

I've noticed some changes in the banded collar shirts since I started buying them. Earlier on, they came with a button-hole at  the back for a collar stud, newer ones either have a loop of some kind, or nothing . . .

A couple of years ago, I bought a couple of period correct celluloid collars, but haven't worn 'em yet . . . by all accounts, they were never comfortable to wear  . . . like a lot of 19th century conventions, you prolly had to get used to 'em for the sake of propriety.

?? Guess I bought 'em just because I could . . .

Paper collars were considered "disposable". Detatchable fabric collars would be starched first, then ironed . . . I'll wear mine if you wear yours, but I ain't gonna promise for how long . . . 

[Octagonal Barrel]

I e-mailed Amazon Dry Goods for more info on their collars, and for those who are curious, here are the replies:

"The collars are sized from center to center of the front button holes, just as a normal shirt is.  I have had a more comfortable experience wearing these if I size the collar a half a size larger than the shirt.  Generally, for the 1870’s-1880’s period, all of the collars except the Perry would be appropriate, this was during the height of the detachable collar usage, and many styles were available...  ...We have been told by our theatre customers that the linene collars tend to last about 3-4 wearings, with the stud holes wearing out.  But I would expect you could get a couple more since they are under hot lights sweating during a performance. Light soiling can be cleaned off using an art gum eraser...  ...The linene collars originally from the Reversible Collar Company (the ancestor of the collars we produce as we have the remaining equipment) were cotton applied to both sides making it “reversible”.  Today, we make the Linene collars with linen applied to one side of the card stock.  The Linex collars have always been all card stock with or without a fabric texture embossed upon them.  As far as the “celluloid” collars, the remaining ones we have are the last available as the company that produced them has gone out of business.  These are not actually celluloid, but made of acetate."

This info is interesting because some other internet sources say linene was originally cotton applied to cardstock and linex was linen applied to cardstock.  Amazon Dry Goods claims that fabric collars were in vogue before the Civil War.  Paper collars were originally invented during the war because for some crazy reason, the North found cotton harder to come by.  Something about supply sources from the South drying up... So Amazon Dry Goods' story about historic linex all-paper collars makes sense.  The all paper ones were less expensive, and so a lower-class option.  Since I don't imagine paper collars will be around forever, I thought it would be worth sharing this info while it's still available "from the horse's mouth."

Thanks, flyingcollie for sharing your experience.  You mentioned, "by all accounts, they were never comfortable to wear  . . . like a lot of 19th century conventions, you prolly had to get used to 'em for the sake of propriety."  I know that applied to the celluloid collars especially.  Seems like paper cardstock collars couldn't have been a lot better.  Wondering if heavily starched cloth collars were any better?

You also mentioned, "detatchable fabric collars would be starched first, then ironed..."  I thought I'd understood the collars were pressed flat first (perhaps with a first round of starch to help get the wrinkles out like we use it today), and then dipped in what we would consider to be a very heavy starch solution, and carefully curved to the neck shape to let dry with that curve in it.  Supposedly just starching and ironing flat resulted in stiff collars that wouldn't conform to the neck properly.  But I can't find my source for that now, and I haven't experience myself yet, so maybe others with experience can weigh in an confirm or correct my understanding.

By the way, flyingcollie, do you remember who made your celluloid collars?

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[Jeremiah]

I wear the cotton type from River Junction. I've had it for a couple of years and probably worn it a dozen times. I've never tired to iron or starch the collar so it might not be be as stiff as it should be, I don't really know. It still seems to stand up properly. I just hand wash it and let it dry. I might try to iron and starch it if I ever get an iron.

It attaches with a stud in the front and back.

As for comfort I can wear it all day. It doesn't really feel any different that a modern dress shirt buttoned up. In fact it is more comfortable than most modern dress shirts for me because I was able to buy it large enough to fit.

[flyingcollie]

Octagonal Barrel, the collars I have were made by C.E. Buckley, Inc., Leominster, Mass.

I don't recall if I got 'em direct from them, or elsewhere . . . ??  Sorry for the delay getting back. Hope this helps.

[James Hunt]

When appropriate - frock, vest, and top hat - I wear a collar. Celluloid's are getting harder to find in all styles, and I have gone to a cloth collar in the style I wear. It cleans well. I use spray starch when I iron it and have had no problems - lots  of spray starch.



I also bought from River Junction.