Author Topic: Question on Period shotgun sling swivels  (Read 2935 times)

Offline Coyote Hunter

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Question on Period shotgun sling swivels
« on: May 08, 2012, 12:22:42 AM »
I have a very early 1900's hammerless SXS shotgun in twelve gauge that I bought at a pawn shop and had the barrels cut to 18 1/2 inches. They sold it as a wall hanger only because the stock had a hairline crack in it. A little wood repair and it's safe. I mostly use it for western reenacting so it see's blanks 99% of the time, except when I'm shooting some paper hull skeet loads for the hulls to reload as blanks.  Anyway, I want to attach some swivels to it so I don't have to always have it in my hand during a show. Any suggestions on where I can get, or what swivels looked like in the late 1880's or 1890's? Did they even exist?

Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. The walmart swivels won't cut it I don't believe.

Thanks
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Offline Professor Marvel

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Re: Question on Period shotgun sling swivels
« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2012, 12:59:45 AM »
Greetings my Good Hunter -

The Europeans were most practical regarding their shotguns and it it is quite common to find examples from overseas whereas we in "the States" were not so inclined.... here are three examples of antique shotgun with "sling loops". If one examines them closely, it appears they are very much like the military sling loops of the period.

http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_info.php?products_id=21741&osCsid=77fbd758fa02dc4acd4677499a20195d

http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_info.php?cPath=350_354_355&products_id=13425&osCsid=77fbd758fa02dc4acd4677499a20195d

http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_info.php?cPath=350_354_355&products_id=13425&osCsid=77fbd758fa02dc4acd4677499a20195d

the hard part will be attaching the "forward" loop to the barrel... perhaps drilling and tapping the underrib might work.

hope this helps,
yhs
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Offline St. George

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Re: Question on Period shotgun sling swivels
« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2012, 08:43:55 AM »
The upper and under ribs are attached via solder - were the sling attachment to be hard-soldered to the under rib first, then the under rib re-soldered in place, it should work, but that's a lot of screwing around, and not worth the cost.

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