Uberti SA BP frame

[Dayton Dave]

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I gotta Uberti SA blackpowder frame 44 special.  I keep having to tighten up the cylinder pin screw. Anyone have ideas on how to fix this ?

                  Dayton Dave

[Major 2]

dab of blue Locktite or blue Permatex , both are removable

[Dayton Dave]

dab of blue Locktite or blue Permatex , both are removable

  I have the blue loctite, i`ll try it and thanks .   

[Abilene]

The Loctite will help, but here is some more info.  Are you using the knurled thumbscrew or the slotted screw?  The slotted screw can be snugged tighter and holds better.  Either way you have to be sure you are exactly centered into the groove in the base pin.  Since the base pins are the two-position safety type, you might have to wiggle the pin forward and backwards as you slowly tighten the screw to be sure of proper position.  If you grind off about 1/8" from the rear of the base pin and polish it (or replace it with a Colt base pin, but that costs more), then when you push the base pin all the way in it is perfectly aligned with the screw.  This also approves the appearance in my opinion since the basepin head doesn't stick out so far.

[Dayton Dave]

The Loctite will help, but here is some more info.  Are you using the knurled thumbscrew or the slotted screw?  The slotted screw can be snugged tighter and holds better.  Either way you have to be sure you are exactly centered into the groove in the base pin.  Since the base pins are the two-position safety type, you might have to wiggle the pin forward and backwards as you slowly tighten the screw to be sure of proper position.  If you grind off about 1/8" from the rear of the base pin and polish it (or replace it with a Colt base pin, but that costs more), then when you push the base pin all the way in it is perfectly aligned with the screw.  This also approves the appearance in my opinion since the basepin head doesn't stick out so far.

  Yes, I do have the slotted screw. I`ll try the grind thing. This screw has always been a problem. So, your saying that grinding off the base pin will stop the screw from backing out ?

[Abilene]

What I'm saying is that by shortening the base pin and defeating the Italian safety thingie, pushing the pin all the way in makes it so that the forward groove in the pin is perfectly aligned with the screw, thereby eliminating the screw coming loose due to not being perfectly in the groove.  The screw can still come loose due to worn threads in the frame or on the screw, so loctite may still be needed in that case.

[Coffinmaker]

Part Dux, or three, or something.  As Abilene posted, tis a good idea to remove the last 3/16th of an inch from the base pin and chamfer the end and polish it.  The base pin should also be free to turn.  If your base pin screw stops the pin from turning when tight,it is also a fraction too long.  Take a "LITTLE" off the end of the screw. 
After you do all of the above, add the drop of BLUE or Purple locTite to the screw and it will stay in.

Coffinmaker

[Coffinmaker]

Ah Poop.  Forgot.  As long as you have the base pin and cylinder out, it is also important that the base pin bushing be free to turn in the cylinder (if yours has the removable bushing).  Chuck the base pin bushing in a drill motor and polish it up with some 1000 or 2000 grit wet or dry.  Then lube the whole shebang and put it back together.

Coffinmaker

[Dayton Dave]

Shortening the screw is a good idea also. I should have thought of that. I`ll perform said functions and get back attcha 

[Dayton Dave]

Is this what it`s suppose to look like ?  Also, I decided to not shorten the screw.  That screw looks like the longer it is the better. If I shorten it, it won`t grab as much of the slot in the base pin. Please correct me if i`m wrong here.

 

[Abilene]

I think Coffinmaker was stating that when the base pin screw is tight, you should still be able to rotate the base pin with your fingers.  I think the theory here is that when the screw is tight, the head of the screw should be bottomed out into the recessed area of the screw hole in the frame that the head fits into.  If the end of the screw is pushing against the base pin in the groove, then that keeps the head from bottoming out in the frame.

In my own guns with BP frames, the screw bottoms out into the groove in the base pin.  I have not had problems with it coming loose, but that is not to say that Coffinmaker's suggestion isn't the best way to go.  I had not previously heard that the base pin should be able to turn when the screw is tight, but there are plenty of other things I don't know as well. 

[Coffinmaker]

Yep, the base pin looks just fine.  And ....... yes, the base pin should be able to turn with your fingers when the screw in in tight.  Your only removing a tiny amount and if you look at the depth of the cut in the base pin, you have plenty of material to deal with.
From those halcyon days of yesteryear, the base pin and base pin bushing were intended to turn independently.  Originally, this was intended to defeat or at least lessen the effects of powder fouling on the base pin area and keep a cavalry soldier in action longer.  A good thing I think.  Mechanically, if the screw can't bottom in the threads it's never correctly "tight."  Either way, apply Loc Tite cause it will only come out in a match, shot over gravel, where you'll never find it. Quote "Murphy."

Coffinmaker

[Cliff Fendley]

Hmmm, Note to self........ "buy and extra base pin screw and keep it in my shooting bag"

Then maybe I'll never loose it  But if it can happen it probably will at some point