Uberti Cattleman with a problem

[joec]

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I have a new Uberti Cattleman NM with 5.5" barrel. Now the problem arose for the first time last Saturday at the JCR meet. The first set it worked fine however the second set it started to be come hard to cock back and the third it was almost locked up. It was suggested that perhaps it was high primers however the last two sets I shot an ASM backup gun with out a problem. I was using factory Winchester CA 45 colt ammo. I've shot Winchester, MagTech through this gun before with out a hitch. Well today I took it to the range and on the second loading of the gun it locked up tight after 2 rounds but worked fine the first 5 rounds. After I brought it home and cleaned it I have some reloads and tried loading it with it only to have it lockup the first time I drew the hammer back.

Ok my question is what could it be, is it repairable by a gun smith or does it need to go back to the factory? I have a good local gun smith as a buddy but he is away the last two weeks on vacation.

[Shotgun Franklin]

If you bought it at a shop take it there first. If they can't make it right contact the factory by e-mail or phone. You might pull the cylinder out and try cocking it.. If it works without the cylinder in place then the problem is somewhere there if not then it's inside the frame somewhere. Beyond that it's just a guess without actually having the gun to check.

[joec]

If you bought it at a shop take it there first. If they can't make it right contact the factory by e-mail or phone. You might pull the cylinder out and try cocking it.. If it works without the cylinder in place then the problem is somewhere there if not then it's inside the frame somewhere. Beyond that it's just a guess without actually having the gun to check.

I actually put 90 rounds of magtech CA through the gun when I bought it Feb. 3, 2011 from Bud's. Now so far since then I've put Winchester CA stuff that shoots fine in my ASM and Rossi R92 rifle.

As per what you asked it cylinder is removed it cycles fine as well as with snap caps, and some dummy loads I have. One of the guys that works at Bud's does my gun work on the side as he is a retired gun smith. He did my Rossi rifle as per Steve Gunz DVD and did a great job on it. At any rate I will see him Monday and let him try it out at their range. If it needs to go back then Bud's will send it back to the factory for me. At any rate could it be as simple as the ammo?

[Shotgun Franklin]

Try it with a different brand. WW makes good ammo but anything is possible.

[joec]

Thanks Franklin I might do that Monday with my buddy at Bud's so he can see exactly what is happening. I will take some of the Winchester's and pick up a box by someone else while there though it will be standard loads not CA stuff as they just don't carry anything but Mag Tech in CA.

[Fingers McGee]

Sounds like the revolver has a very tight barrel/cylinder gap that fouls out using Winchester ammo.  Cycling becoming harder with use indicates a fouling problem.

FM

[Fingers McGee]

Sounds like the revolver has a very tight barrel/cylinder gap that fouls out or a tight cylinder pin that is getting fouled when using Winchester ammo.  Cycling becoming harder with use indicates a fouling problem.

FM

[joec]

Sounds like the revolver has a very tight barrel/cylinder gap that fouls out using Winchester ammo.  Cycling becoming harder with use indicates a fouling problem.

FM

That was my first thought to. The reason was when I first bought the gun I actually had to order the Colt Cylinder Pin remove because I couldn't budge it by hand. The tool did the trick but after 90 rounds it got where I could remove it normally. I also noticed that the bushing or what ever the piece is in the cylinder is pinned in as it won't come out like my ASM does though the cylinder pins are exactly the same. I hope that is understandable since my knowledge of these parts are pretty limited but I'm learning slowly but surely. 

As I said though I've fired some MagTech cowboy action through it 90 rounds to be precise and 50 Blazer Aluminum JHP without a single problem.

[Pettifogger]

First, stick some feeler gauges into the barrel/cylinder gap.  How big is it with no ammo in it?  Also, hold the gun up so you are looking at the side and look at the cylinder bolt.  It helps to have a light behind the cylinder.  Slowing cock the hammer and see if the bolt is retracting out of the notches before the hand starts turning the cylinder.

[Fox Creek Kid]

Have you disassembled, cleaned & lubed the gun?

[joec]

First, stick some feeler gauges into the barrel/cylinder gap.  How big is it with no ammo in it?  Also, hold the gun up so you are looking at the side and look at the cylinder bolt.  It helps to have a light behind the cylinder.  Slowing cock the hammer and see if the bolt is retracting out of the notches before the hand starts turning the cylinder.

Will do this today and thanks.

[joec]

Have you disassembled, cleaned & lubed the gun?

I remove the cylinder and clean every thing thoroughly and lube after ever shooting session. I have not disassembled this gun any further than that is considered for normal cleaning and lube.

[St. George]

Do that...

It's the first thing you should've done upon getting the weapon.

It's not rocket science, but pay close attention to parts relationships.

Look for burring and high spots.

If you encounter them (and you will), stone them away.

Clean thoroughly - use the round toothpicks and such - lube properly, reassemble and try.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[Abilene]

...After I brought it home and cleaned it I have some reloads and tried loading it with it only to have it lockup the first time I drew the hammer back....

That does not sound like a cylinder to barrel gap problem.  If it cycles fine with the gun empty but binds when you load it, that sounds like either high primers or headspace problem.  Check those reloads that were in the gun when it binds and see if there are any scrape marks across either the primers or the bottom of the brass.

Also, the cylinder bushing in a Cattleman should be removeable (except the stainless models).  Often they are hard to budge when new, and have to be driven out from the rear (use a proper size brass punch).

[joec]

That does not sound like a cylinder to barrel gap problem.  If it cycles fine with the gun empty but binds when you load it, that sounds like either high primers or headspace problem.  Check those reloads that were in the gun when it binds and see if there are any scrape marks across either the primers or the bottom of the brass.

Also, the cylinder bushing in a Cattleman should be removeable (except the stainless models).  Often they are hard to budge when new, and have to be driven out from the rear (use a proper size brass punch).

As I said I checked it the first time it happened with factory Winchester CA loads at the JCR event last Saturday. That was the first suggestion I got from Cliff Fendley at that time. I saw no marks on the back of the case or on the are behind the cylinder. At any rate I was over at Bud's today and will bring them the gun on Tuesday (Monday they are closed for Memorial Day) and they will ship it back to Uberti. The ASM will be in use until the Cattleman is returned.

As for the cylinder bushing it moves about 1/8" forward but that is it. I will mention that also when I take it in Tuesday so we will see. As I said this gun was purchase new in the box taken home and cleaned though not dismantled due to lack of proper fitting screw drivers and lack of punches as I'm not a gunsmith, haven't played one nor stayed at a Holiday Inn in years.  I prefer to let this stuff go to those that understand it which I don't nor really want too. 

The only thing I want to do to this gun is remove the finish from the grip and redo it to my liking which is a dark walnut without the bright red finish.

[Fox Creek Kid]

I think now that it is the reloads as well, i.e., it's the Indian & not the arrow. 

[joec]

I think now that it is the reloads as well, i.e., it's the Indian & not the arrow. 

Actually guys I've never shot a reload in this gun just tried some that I recently bought to cycle with. The only ammo through this gun has been factory loads some Blazer Aluminum JHP, Mag Tech CA and Winchester CA all of which worked perfectly fine except the Winchester CA.

[Cliff Fendley]

I didn't really look at it the other day but it sounds like a head space problem. If you load it and put it on half cock can you notice any rubbing?

[joec]

I didn't really look at it the other day but it sounds like a head space problem. If you load it and put it on half cock can you notice any rubbing?

I did that yesterday when I got back from the range. I couldn't see a place where the shells (unshot) touched at all. I really think in is perhaps a problem with the mechanism that rotates the cylinder myself. At any rate it will go back to Uberti first thing Tuesday morning.

On a side not there is no difference between the Mag Tech, Winchester or the re-loads as far as case or primer nor clearance between the shell in the cylinder and the back of the frame. I miked all of that and no significant difference that would cause it.

[joec]

I seem to have narrowed this down a bit now. When I shoot the MagTech ammo and Blazer neither use Black Powder or a substitute as both are smokeless. Hench no problem but with BP type stuff it is different. I found yesterday while at the range when I get there the gun is clean and will shot 10 rounds of BP including Winchester with out a problem. It starts almost perfectly after on round once the gun is on 11 to 12 round of BP regardless of the ammo. I cleaned the gun then shot it more and again fine for 10 rounds then 11 to 12 it got harder to cock it. So based on that I'm assuming that some how the mechanism that rotates the cylinder is fouling. This doesn't occur on my ASM which will shot BP all day long with out a fouling problems. I will have the gun sent back to the factory on Tuesday and get this fixed.

[Pettifogger]

All this time and you finally mention you are shooting BP.  Kind of a useful piece of information.  CHECK YOUR CYLINDER GAP and THEN COME BACK and let us know what it is.  Classic symptom of fouling on the face of the cylinder dragging on the back of the barrel.

[St. George]

You beat me to it, Pettifogger...

Vaya,

Scouts Out!

[joec]

All this time and you finally mention you are shooting BP.  Kind of a useful piece of information.  CHECK YOUR CYLINDER GAP and THEN COME BACK and let us know what it is.  Classic symptom of fouling on the face of the cylinder dragging on the back of the barrel.

Sorry, I wasn't aware of the difference between the factory Magtech CA stuff being smokeless and the factory Winchester CA being BP or a substitute. I discovered this actually shooting both types of rounds yesterday as the first time I shot the Winchesters was at the NCOWS event for JCR and that is also the first time I had it happen. Before then I has shot as I said part of a box of Blazer standard JHP and a box of the Magtech both of which where not a problem.

I don't own a feeler gauge so I really can't check it other than by eye. I have written out the problem for Uberti and will have the letter mailed along with the gun. I will say it is strange to me as the ASM has less gap (visibly) than the Uberti on both sides of the cylinder, but functions fine regardless of ammo used.

[jefff]

joe this is a learning process and i have found each gun comes own emotinal issues based on what you feed it.i would suggest you stick with smokeless powder in your guns until you get bored with everything going right and move on bp.jefff

[joec]

joe this is a learning process and i have found each gun comes own emotinal issues based on what you feed it.i would suggest you stick with smokeless powder in your guns until you get bored with everything going right and move on bp.jefff

That is probably good advise however 3 our of 4 seem to do just fine on BP. Bud's offered to send the gun back on their dime to the factory and will handle it all at no charge to me. I will let them deal with it then. Meanwhile I still have a pistol, rifle and shotgun that all do just fine on BP. 

I'm am still looking for my feeler gauges but they are buried in one of my storage sheds. I will find them today though and see if I can get a measurement as I'm curious also as to why one gun does this while the other doesn't. Besides I now have just over a 1000 rounds of BP 45 colt ammo and hate spending $34 for a box of 50 MagTechs.