I've been using Magtech brass hulls with smokeless powder in 12, 16, & 20 ga for about 6 years.
There was a bit of a learning curve.
209 primers work quite well. Plastic wads not so well. I use Circle Fly fiber wads and glue the over shot card in place with a good quality waterproof aliphatic resin wood glue.
For load data, I've used data from reloading books printed in the days of fiber shot-shell wads. However, these old load recipes often list obsolete components and often seem very hot. Alternatively, I've used modern data for slower powders like Herco, Green Dot, & PB. I have a Chrony chronograph. For each ga, powder, & shot weight, I start low and experiment 'till I get to about 1,100 fps.
I've tried 2 methods of enlarging the primer pocket; drill it out and countersink so primer doesn't stand proud or use a cone shaped mandrel made from the shank of a # 14 flat head wood screw to reshape the pocket.
The mandrel works best. Be sure the shank is full dimension. With a little patience, you can chuck a new screw up in a hand drill and shape it properly on a bench grinder. This takes a bit of fussing about, but you only need one.
To use the mandrel, insert a short piece of pipe into the new hull and drive it over the mandrel with a heavy hammer. It's a bother, but you only do it once for each hull & the hulls seem to last forever.
Most of the folks in my club think I'm a little strange for doing all this, but I like to putter about.
Of course, you can by Rocky Mountain brass hulls (
http://rockymountaincartridge.com/products.htm ) for about $6 each. I'm told that these take 209 primers and have inside dimension suitable for plastic wads. I ordered some today just to see.
One final comment: when the primer pocket wears and the primer fits too loosely, clean the hole and just wet it out with solder. This reduces the diameter by about about 2/1000 th of an inch. Ballistic Products sells a primer pocket conditioning tool, which also works.