Author Topic: Barrel to cylinder gap question  (Read 20097 times)

Offline Mako

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2011, 02:44:07 PM »
ndnchf,
Soldering a button in place will definitely work.   You could even solder a Dillon button in place.  You know you can get those online:

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25280/catid/48/Locator_Buttons

and they are only $1.28 each.

As you can see I like Pettifoggers solution, it's cheap and simple.  I just tend to overdo things.  It's my genetic imperative (half Scot and half German, and always at war with myself...).

Thanks for the kind words about the models.  I have thought about having some buttons made for sale.  Yeah, just what I need, another project.

~Mako
A brace of 1860s, a Yellowboy Saddle Rifle and a '78 Pattern Colt Scattergun
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Offline santee

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2011, 04:00:07 PM »
Coffinmaker and Pettifogger,
I am using the Uberti 1871 conversion, not the RM (see photo)

I appreciate all the help, and Mako, the designs are great.
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Offline Mako

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #22 on: January 19, 2011, 05:22:59 PM »
Santee,
That's a 71-72 Open Top.  It never was a cap gun,  the originals were built as a rim fire cartridge pistols, so it's not a conversion.  Just call it an "Open Top." 

There isn't agreement on whether to call them '71 Open Tops, '72 Open Tops or 1871-1872 Open Tops.  So just call them Open Tops and everyone will know what you are taking about.  The naming confusion is because of the patent dates that appear on the originals and when they were actually introduced.

~Mako
A brace of 1860s, a Yellowboy Saddle Rifle and a '78 Pattern Colt Scattergun
NRA, TSRA, MCA, MCAA, ANA, MOAA, ASME, SAME, BMES, STS

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #23 on: Today at 05:01:00 AM »

Offline Coffinmaker

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #23 on: January 19, 2011, 05:45:02 PM »
Mako,

OK.  Were talking about the same things, just using different terminology.

Now getting back to Santee ------

You have an 1871/72 Open Top.  See what Mako said.  Lets begin at the beginning.  The barrel/Arbor fit on a Uberti is always bad.  Thats where you start.  You can get real complicated, or go cheap seats.  Lets start with Cheap seats.  Drop by your local DIY hardware and pick up a package of stainless 5mm split washers.  Take the gun apart, clean up the end of the arbor (there will be burrs), drop a washer down the hole in the barrel (spacer), re-assemble.  Tap the wedge in nice and snug.  Notice I said "tap," not to be confused with "drive."  Nice and snug will work.  The relationship of the wedge to the retaining screw on the side of the barrel is immaterial so long as the screw head in the little depression for it in the wedge.  Now, with the spacer, the barrel/arbor fit will be really close.  and when you tap the wedge in, it will always be the same.  Don't lose the washer (thats why you bought a package :) 
Once you have corrected the barrel/arbor fit, go shoot it.  See if it binds.  Shooting BP, there is always gunk fouling that will build up on the gas ring and barrel frame, so take something to squirt it with.  NOT a petroleum based oil.  A little soapy water or an equal parts mix of Murphy's Oil Soap, Denatured Alcohol and Hydrogen Peroxide.  Some will recommend Balistol.  I don't recommend Balistol for anything except softening hard leather boots.  Also, lubricate the Arbor with White Lithium Grease.  Be generous.
If, after you have corrected the Barrel/Arbor fit, you still experience binding, determine exactly where and we can fix it.
Open Tops are notorious for problem fit from the factory.  Once the guns are properly set up, they run with anything out there and point like their part of your hand.  Once you know how to set them up, you can order Cylinders and Barrels to change calibers and shoot .38s, .44s and .45s all on the same frame.  Capital FUN!!!!

Coffinmaker   

Offline santee

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #24 on: January 19, 2011, 05:57:11 PM »
Ok. I will try to throw some rounds down range this weekend, and let you know how it works. Won't be able to shot BP, but at least get some idea of the fit.
Apologies about calling it a conversion.
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Offline Kent Shootwell

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #25 on: January 19, 2011, 06:37:25 PM »
Fox Creek Kid, Thanks for your suggestion. I'm using white lithium on the arbor but perhaps not enough. The arbor isn't very fouled when I clean but the out side of the gas ring is. A drop or two of water at the gas ring to barrel interface frees the pistol up fine. I would hope to get more shots before this was necessary. Yesterdays groups.
Little powder much lead shoots far kills dead.
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AKA Phil Coffins, AKA Oliver Sudden

Offline Mako

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #26 on: January 21, 2011, 08:49:14 PM »

...NOT a petroleum based oil.  A little soapy water or an equal parts mix of Murphy's Oil Soap, Denatured Alcohol and Hydrogen Peroxide.  Some will recommend Balistol.  I don't recommend Balistol for anything except softening hard leather boots.  Also, lubricate the Arbor with White Lithium Grease.  Be generous...
Coffinmaker   

This should be interesting...

Coffinmaker,
First of all, why do you not recommend an emulsifying oil like Ballistol for anything except softening hard leather boots (by the way neats foot oil work better for that).

Secondly, why would you admonish against a petroleum based lubricant and then turn around and recommend a petroleum based lubricant?  You should compare the MSDS sheets between Ballistol and White Lithium grease you will surprised when you see the primary ingredients.

I'm always curious as to why people have the beliefs and regimens they follow.

Best Regards,
Mako
A brace of 1860s, a Yellowboy Saddle Rifle and a '78 Pattern Colt Scattergun
NRA, TSRA, MCA, MCAA, ANA, MOAA, ASME, SAME, BMES, STS

Offline Fox Creek Kid

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #27 on: January 21, 2011, 09:14:02 PM »
Most petroleum products have hydrocarbons that turn to asphalt with heat such as in a gun barrel. A few do not, such as canning parrafin. The cylinder pin is not as important as the barrel regarding this hence you can use petro products there, however I don't. Just my 2 cents.

Offline Coffinmaker

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #28 on: January 22, 2011, 02:10:54 PM »
Mako,

Ballistol is an emulsifying oil yes.  However, the residue it leaves behind turns to a very "slick" substance a lot like soap when exposed to moisture.  A light rain, high humidity or sweat can result in a handgun grip almost impossible to hold on to.  It does soften leather nicely though.
I normally don't recommend petroleum lubricants with BP for the reason(s) FCK posted.  White lithium works well on the large Arbor of an Open Top or Conversion when used with smokeless and I have had good results with BP.  Most smokeless.  I've found Trailboss powder doesn't like petroleum lubricants either.  Go figure.
I work on a LOT of guns.  Not just the "one" in my hand.  I try to give the best answer for the best results over the broadest spectrum so folks can resolve most problems without resorting to a gunplumber and the associated costs.  Especially if said gunplumber isn't familiar with with "our" guns, especially Open Top guns, with their own unique problems.
I'm well aware Neats Foot Oil works better for boots.  My reference to use Ballistol for the same thing is somewhat tung in cheek.  After working on more guns than I can count, I simply don't like ballistol on/in guns.

Coffinmaker 

Offline Fox Creek Kid

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #29 on: January 22, 2011, 03:31:16 PM »
...My reference to use Ballistol for the same thing is somewhat tung in cheek...

WHAT AN INCREDIBLE PUN!!!
"Tung" in cheek!! Tung, as in tung oil!!! Give that man a prize!!  :D

Offline Mako

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #30 on: January 22, 2011, 06:01:06 PM »
WHAT AN INCREDIBLE PUN!!!
"Tung" in cheek!! Tung, as in tung oil!!! Give that man a prize!!  :D

Very funny...
A brace of 1860s, a Yellowboy Saddle Rifle and a '78 Pattern Colt Scattergun
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Offline santee

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Re: Barrel to cylinder gap question
« Reply #31 on: January 25, 2011, 05:53:33 AM »
Let fly 50 rounds in my open top over the weekend. Everything went great. Surprisingly accurate, even with that baby v-notch rear sight. No issues with locking up, so the split washer solved that problem.
Thanks again all, for the tips!
Historian at Old Tucson Studios
SASS #2171
STORM #371
RATS #431
True West Maniac #1261

 

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