Crow Choker, the replies you have from the gang is all good. You have to see the gun for youself since no one here can actually see it to determine the actual problem.
You may have the problem mentioned about the misplaced at the factory cam of the hammer. Like a good cam and a new bolt can have the new bolt leg too short.
That being the case the new non-integral cam installed(as long as it's larger in diamerter than the factory cam) can fix it up so the bolt legs of new bolts will be too long and keep the bolt on the cam too long. That means you file the bolt leg a little at a time to get the timing right. The timing "right" to me is when the full width of the bolt hits the cylinder with it's leading edge even with the leading edge of the bolt notch. You can time it so the bolt hangs over the notch edge as much as half it's width but if the trigger/bolt swpring is on the stiff side the bot can begin to peen down the leaqding edge some. That's why I like to time so the full width of the bolts head hits the ramp/lead in. That can minimize the bolt head peening down the notches leading edge.
I think on some of these Open Tops with the distance between the cam and end of the bolts leg being what it is getting the full width of the bolts head hitting even with the cylinder notches leading edge is the best it'll get with stock parts. A new cam would remedy that and give more margin for timing the way you would like it.
I like to soften the hammer before drilling a new hole for a replacaceble cam. Some hammers are hard and too difficult to drill a hole in the slanted face of the old cam. I like to punch mark the center of the cam so it's position isn't lost and then drill a pilot hole with a small drill and then drill the hole full size for a snug fit of the new cams post in the hole. Once the hole is drill I mill the old cam off flush. "Flush" being important so a milling machine is good to have. After the new cam(already in a hardened state) is in I reharden the whole hammer firing pin and all.
Anywhooo......if a new cam is needed you can determine that by looking at the cam and bolt leg comparing the bolt leg to a new bolt to see if it's worn off any and a new bolt can fix the problem and seeing if the cam is worn or defective by eye-ballin it.
It's hard to understand the exact problem of the gun as you describe it. I see iy may be a case of the bolt head needing conformed to the center of the lead-in or ramp so it doesn't dig into thye side of the ramp where the bolt hits in there off center. You have to see if the bot leg hits before the contours of the ramp which means a timing problem or if the bolt is deforming metal by not hitting the cylinder early but by hitting the cylinders ramps off center.
If it's merely hitting off center you have to remove metal from the bolts head till it's contour is riding on the center of the ramp and sitting in the notch with it's highest point in the center of the notch and riding the center of the ramp/lead-in.
I'd fix it fer ya free of charge except for shipping and the cost of the new bolt or cam or whatever and ,maybe, a little donation to the "Funds for the Poor" charity where I am the "POOR"
but I don't have the FFL stuff so......I'd send it to one of the FFL'ers here like Raven and get it fixed up A-OK. I'd go with a new hardened cam over a whole new hammer since the problem could still be there even after a new hammer is installed.