Author Topic: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?  (Read 4782 times)

Offline John William McCandles

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1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« on: December 08, 2008, 07:26:58 PM »
I'm looking at one of these for a pocket pistol to use in re-enactments to shoot blanks in.
What do I need to look out for on these.

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Offline St. George

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2008, 11:12:43 PM »
The criteria is similar to that of selecting a Remington Double Derringer.

Look at the hinge for evidence of old repair or cracking, then check the lock-up for snugness and the action for smoothness.

The weak spots are the lock-up and hinge.

Ideally, you can clean up roughness with a stone and good lubricant, but repairing the cracked hinge can be expensive.

'In general' - the exterior condition is a good indicator of overall care, so be prepared to spend a bit more for a nice-looking piece.

This will be a 'BP-Only' piece, and if carefully loaded, will shoot well - but don't get ahead of yourself and decide that a smokeless load might be safe.

Good Luck.

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Offline John William McCandles

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #2 on: December 18, 2008, 05:31:21 PM »
Well I got the 1 1/2 today and it's in good condition. No cracks in the hinge area, locks up good. Generally a good looking 130 year lod revolver.
It'll be fed blanks during our re-enactments with Six Guns Entertainment by Sierra Sue.
Thanks for the info.

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #3 on: Today at 04:20:53 AM »

Offline St. George

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2008, 10:34:09 PM »
If you're using blanks - clean it thoroughly, since they can be corrosive.

Also - don't 'vigorously' work the action, since those springs are likely tired - be deliberate and make sure there's a primer for the firing pin to impact, as it'll lessen  the 'shock' to the hammer.

Good Luck!

Vaya,

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Offline Forty Rod

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2008, 04:48:03 AM »
Open and close the action slowly and gently, otherwise you'll bust the hinge.  Springs have alreay been mentioned. 

I have one in as good shape as I've ever seen and have fired it on those occasions when I could find .32 rf black powder ammo or it. It tends to be right pricey and can frequently get as scarce as hen's teeth.

The designer has a warped idea of what the human hand was like.  The hammer spur in too high and placed poorly for one hand cocking, even for hands as big as mine.

Sure is a nifty piece, though.  You should be happy and proud to have it.
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Offline John William McCandles

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #5 on: December 19, 2008, 06:35:08 PM »
Thanks for the insight pards.
I load my own blanks with black powder and don't buy the flash powder style. I shoot these in my Colt pocket pistol I had Bob Millington convert for me.
I've already stressed taht she needs to be gentle with it when breaking it open for loading and not to dry fire it.
I clean all our firearms after each day of shows.
40 Rod this is the break open type in .32 S&W CF not a tip up.

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Offline Dr. Bob

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2008, 12:45:25 AM »
Small S & W revolvers can be cornfuzin!  The tip ups are numbered 1, 1 1/2 & 2.  The firs break top's with spur triggers use the 1 & 1 1/2 designations but add "center fire"!  To cornfuze even more the first break top in .38 S & W is called the baby Russian.  Many incorrectly call the second model a baby Russian too when it is really a 1 1/2 .38 center fire.  The baby Russian has a longer extractor housing than the later one.  These were a bit sturdier than the tip up varieties.  The correct designation is "Single Action" to differentiate them from the tip up models. :o ;D ;D
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Offline John William McCandles

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2008, 06:06:35 AM »
Small S & W revolvers can be cornfuzin!  The tip ups are numbered 1, 1 1/2 & 2.  The firs break top's with spur triggers use the 1 & 1 1/2 designations but add "center fire"!  To cornfuze even more the first break top in .38 S & W is called the baby Russian.  Many incorrectly call the second model a baby Russian too when it is really a 1 1/2 .38 center fire.  The baby Russian has a longer extractor housing than the later one.  These were a bit sturdier than the tip up varieties.  The correct designation is "Single Action" to differentiate them from the tip up models. :o ;D ;D

Thanks for clarifying this for me and most likely others.
So what the wife has is a S&W 1 1/2 .32 center fire or S&W 1 1/2 single action.
Yes, it is confusing but I knew I had to find a break open type to get .32 center fire.

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Offline St. George

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #8 on: December 20, 2008, 10:36:40 AM »
Well, it does change a bit of the advice...

The big thing to look at is lock-up and timing, since the hinge on a break-top is strong.

Springs are still an issue - but they're more readily replaced than those of a Tip-Up, so that advice still stands.

Unless they've been abused - the top-breaks are pretty sturdy revolvers, overall.

Clean the piece 'thoroughly' - lube properly and handle with a sure hand - you'll be fine.

As to the 'fit' of the piece - remember that back then, folks weren't built along the 'heroic scale' that modern nutrition has brought them to.

Vaya,

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Offline Forty Rod

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Re: 1 1/2 S&W in 32 S&W?
« Reply #9 on: December 20, 2008, 07:04:10 PM »
Thanks for the insight pards.
I load my own blanks with black powder and don't buy the flash powder style. I shoot these in my Colt pocket pistol I had Bob Millington convert for me.
I've already stressed taht she needs to be gentle with it when breaking it open for loading and not to dry fire it.
I clean all our firearms after each day of shows.
40 Rod this is the break open type in .32 S&W CF not a tip up.

Regards
JW

Well that do change a few things.  The break tops were a much hardier breed than my 1st Model break bottom, and much more ergonomic about a century before that term became popular.  I'd forgotten about them (and I even have a second model .38, too.) and how rugged they are. 

Springs are still a concern because they tend to be fragile and hard to get, and they bend and rust easily.  Keep the star ejector clean and lubed, too.  I had one freeze up and it's a bear to get loose...'twas just filled with a hundred years of crud and 'shellac'.
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